The country around us abounded in granitic masses, but its features were not interesting, having the usual dismal character of the Australian bush. We passed several rivulets, (or creeks, as they are called by the colonists,) and the little streams, similar to those seen meandering through our fields at home, are in this country dignified with other larger streams by the appellation of rivers. Of the feathered creation, loris, parrots, and white cockatoos, as also the small green parrots with red heads (Psittacus pusillus, Lath?) were seen in great numbers, and flew away screaming on our approach. At six P.M. we arrived at “Wallerowang,” the farm of James Walker, Esq., (after a journey of sixteen miles,) and were kindly received by the persons in charge during the absence of Mr. Brown, the overseer, and took up our abode in the little cottage for the night. This estate appears, as far as I could judge from a casual view, to have few attractions from its locality, or value from capability of cultivation. The sheep are kept at a station called “Looe,” which is nearly fifty miles further distant.
After an early breakfast on the next morning (September 20th) we resumed our journey. The atmosphere was cold, and the season was considered by the settlers more backward than usual this year. After riding six or seven miles we reached “Cullen Bullen,” the farm and residence of Robert Dalhunty, Esq. The situation is picturesque, but the land was stated not to be of an excellent description. The cottage (to which a neat garden was attached) displayed both in its exterior, as well as its interior adornments, a degree of taste and neatness, which was sufficient to acquaint the visitor that the more gentle and amiable sex had secluded themselves in this place. After an agreeable but short stay, we continued our journey through a very uninteresting country. During the journey I observed the “black wattle-tree” (Acacia melanoxylon) growing abundantly, sometimes on the declivities of the hills, and also in swampy situations. Several species of Acacias were in flower, some merely small shrubs, while others had attained the size of large trees; but the whole being in full bloom, bestowed a pleasing appearance upon the otherwise dull scenery. These were as yet the only trees which we had seen in full blossom, and indeed every twig was so thickly studded with fragrant flowers of golden hue, as almost to conceal the foliage, proving sources of attraction to a multitude of insects which revelled in the sweets they contained.
Occasionally, among the trees or bushes, a huge mound of clay, conical in form, would attract the traveller’s attention; these were produced by the labours of a species of Termite, indigenous to the colony. I have seen the mounds from four to five feet in elevation, and two or three feet in diameter, firmly constructed of red or white clay; they furnish persons, about to erect a mud-hut, with an excellent material, ready prepared for use; and then many of them, together with myriads of their inhabitants, are destroyed for the purpose.
About nine miles further, we arrived at a steep hill, up which we were obliged to lead our horses, and there was a corresponding steep descent on the opposite side of the ridge; near it was a lofty hill, surmounted by a bare mass of sandstone, and called “Blackman’s Crown,” by which name the ridge and pass is also known. After passing the ridge and descent, the road continues tolerably good, having about it thickly wooded and brush country, among which white, spotted gums, and box, together with other varieties, or species of Eucalypti abounded, with dwarf and other Acacias, in full bloom, emu flowers, (Richea glauca,) butter-cups, and asters, and among them several purple and yellow flowering plants of the Orchideæ family occasionally mingled. The “spotted gum” is usually found in situations, which, although in dry weather appearing firm, in wet are boggy; this tree consequently indicates by its presence the quality of the soil. The “white gum” trees have a smooth whitish bark, giving them an appearance as if white-washed.
After travelling some distance, we ‘hobelled’ our horses, turned them out in some fine pasturage, and set to work, after the bush fashion, to prepare tea, as a refreshment; there being no station between “Cullen Bullen” and “Dabee:” our pocket-knives cut up the eatables we had with us, sharpened sticks served as a substitute for forks, and flat pieces of wood made excellent spoons. Thus we enjoyed our rustic meal; and it would be well for fastidious people, who, having every luxury at their command, are contented with nothing, to become bush travellers in Australia for a short period, in pursuit of health and contentment, and there can be no doubt but they would return better in both respects. Tea, sugar, a tin-pot, and a blanket, are the requisites for a bush traveller, other necessaries being left to Providence, or to be supplied at the stations he may occasionally meet with.
Ourselves and horses having had an agreeable feed, we travelled on until about six P.M., when we “brought up” at the “Round Swamp,” and encamped on a hill for the night: the horses were hobbelled and turned out to graze, while we occupied ourselves in collecting fuel, of which a sufficient supply was soon procured from the quantity of dried wood that was strewed about. Having lighted our fire, chopped down several small trees, forming with their branches a rude hut, as a temporary shelter, and fern and small shrubs made a rough but not uncomfortable bed. The only drawback to the comfort of sleeping in the bush is the fall of heavy rain; we had a little during the night, but, fortunately, it ceased before sufficient had fallen to penetrate our leafy hut.
In choosing night encampments, it would be well for travellers, if they have any regard for their personal comfort, to be particularly cautious to avoid making their dormitory upon the nest of the red ant, which cannot endure intrusion, and consequently will give them so inhospitable a reception, as to oblige a speedy decampment to take place, leaving painful mementos of their formidable forceps. This happened not to be our lot, and we enjoyed sound repose (after our journey of thirty-three miles) until towards the morning, when the chilness of the air awoke us: the fire not having been kept replenished was nearly extinguished, we, however, soon made it blaze again by an addition of fuel, and as the dawn of day was fast approaching, we prepared tea,—that beverage being always found most refreshing after a fatiguing day’s journey, or before commencing one,—previous to resuming our journey.
As day dawned we proceeded on our journey, and arrived at a place called “Cherry-tree Hill;” on one side of it there is a steep, almost perpendicular descent, which drays passing this road were formerly obliged to descend at great risk; but it is now avoided by a lately discovered route, nearly three miles further round. The view, looking from this hill into the luxuriant little valley beneath, was very beautiful. Having led our horses down, we passed through an open forest country, which presented a more agreeable prospect than any I had yet seen. About this part of the country I remarked the Indigo shrub (Indigofera Australis) abundant, and I was told that indigo of good quality has been prepared from it at Bathurst. The species of Eucalyptus, called “manna-tree” by the colonists, (E. mannifera,) was now occasionally seen, but the season was not yet sufficiently advanced for its secretion, which is usually about the months of December and January. The Currijong-tree (Hibiscus heterophyllus?) was also occasionally seen growing in a granite soil, and more often in elevated than other situations: it has a lively appearance, more especially contrasted with the other trees around it; the bark is rough, greyish, thick, and spongy, and the wood is used by the aborigines for boats or canoes. There are two species indigenous to the colony; from the bark of one, if not of both, the natives manufacture durable rope for nets, &c., as the Polynesian islanders use the bark of another species of Hibiscus (H. Tiliaceus) for a similar purpose.
By nine A.M. we passed a deserted station, formerly called, and still known as “Vincent’s Station;” and by one P.M. arrived at “Dabee,” which is pleasantly situated near the Cudgegong river, which, I believe, empties itself into the Macquarie. The situation of this farm is picturesque, being nearly surrounded by high-wooded and broken ranges of mountains. On approaching the house, several of the aborigines were seen encamped; we rode up to them, and found an assemblage of several, of different ages and sexes: the males were armed with spears, clubs, and the “womera,” or “bomerang;” this last is a peculiar weapon thrown by the hand, and possesses the apparent anomalous property of striking an object in the opposite direction from that in which it is at first propelled.