CHAPTER VI.
Cross the country to Goulbourn Plains—A road-gang stockade—Splendid view—The old Bathurst road—Sidmouth valley—Brisbane valley—Squash field—Bolam Creek—Turril, turril—Gum resin—Swampy country—Mr. Cowper’s farm—Anecdotes—Distant view of Goulburn Plains—Mr. Bradley’s estate—Cross the plains—Hospitable reception at cardross—The Manna tree—Failure in rearing the tulip tree.
On the 24th of September, after an agreeable sojourn with Mr. E. Cox, and again accompanied by Mr. O’Brien, we resumed our journey; retracing our road to Wallerowang, and crossing the country to Goulburn Plains. We arrived at Wallerowang on the morning of the 28th, and, after a short stay, proceeded on our journey, taking a bush-road across the country; passed “Honeysuckle Swamp,” (so called from abounding in that species of Banksia, before mentioned as rosmarinifolia,) about which the old grass was on fire. The custom of setting the dry grass on fire is very prevalent throughout the colony, as the young grass shooting up soon after affords fine feeding for cattle, &c.
After riding about seven miles,[51] we arrived at a stockade, inhabited by a road-gang, employed upon the new Bathurst road, having a very distant view of the descent at Mount Vittoria, from which the road we were upon was a continuation, and a splendid view of mountain ranges and forest scenery was now before us. We only proceeded a few miles upon this excellent road, when we turned off into a dull bush-path through a portion of country which, from its want of animation, became tiresome to man and beast; there was nothing to excite the attention of either, and the horses always appear to participate, with ourselves, in the want of a lively character in the country.
Emerging from this wild bushy track, we came upon the old Bathurst road, and then the country assumed a better appearance, being thinly timbered, and herds of cattle gave some animation to the scene, increasing the beauty of the landscape. As we proceeded, the Fish River was occasionally seen winding its course among acacias, swamp oaks, and other trees, which grew upon its banks, and the sight of a river in this badly watered country, was always a pleasing relief. We crossed this river, and deviating from the main road arrived at “Sidmouth Valley,” the neat farm and residence of Mr. Lowe, by whom we were kindly received, and remained for the night, after a journey this day of twenty-two miles. A distant view of the Bathurst Plains was obtained from this farm.
We left “Sidmouth Valley” early on the following morning, through a good bush-road, and arrived at a portion of thinly-timbered country, having a character of park scenery, abounding in fine herbage. This brought us almost immediately upon a cattle station, the property of Capt. P. P. King, R.N. There was no one in the hut, so, after feeding our horses, we again proceeded; and, after a four miles ride, arrived at a cattle station, belonging to Mr. Scarvell, called “Brisbane Valley,” although from its quality and locality, “swamp” would have been a more correct nomenclature. From this station our road led by a bush-path between wooded hills, and through miserable swamps famed for the loss of an immense number of sheep, until we arrived at a place called “Squashfield,” and never was a more appropriate name bestowed upon a locality; for although the vegetation, springing up from the swamps, gave a fresh, fertile, and even beautiful appearance to the place, yet the moist, chilly, and raw atmosphere, could excite no other ideas than those connected with rheumatisms, catarrhs, and analogous diseases, to which cold and damp will subject the human frame. From the lateness of the hour we took up our night’s lodging in the hut at this station, where every thing was done to make us as comfortable as possible. Squashfield was, for the present, rented by Mr. Imlay, as a cattle station.
This place is an extensive range of swampy flats, of fertile appearance, which was the cause of its being first selected as a sheep station, and its bright features, when the young grass is springing up, charmed many into severe losses; for, not taking into calculation the quality of the soil, or the adaptation of the place for a sheep-run, numerous flocks were placed upon it, and the result was, before any long period had elapsed, the loss of the whole from rot; and yet, notwithstanding these facts more sheep were subsequently placed on the same spot, and, as might have been expected, with similar results, from the damp and swampy nature of the situation. Even now the stock-keepers stated that cattle could not remain about the place, but wander away to more congenial pasturage in other parts of the country.
We rose at day light to continue our journey; a hoar frost whitened the ground, and the atmosphere was exceedingly cold and damp: even our horses were impatient to leave this uncongenial spot, having been left by themselves during the night; for every animal, except those in confinement, which had been collected together with much trouble the previous day, were all reported absent without leave on the following morning.
After a short journey, through a similar swampy country, we arrived at a more elevated and agreeable spot, when we stopped to take refreshments, made a bush fire, prepared tea, turning out our horses to graze in a fine pasturage. Many of the Eucalypti trees[52] were throwing off their dark brown and rough outer bark, appearing in a new one, of a greyish colour. The appearance of the trees, partially denuded, with strips of brown crisped bark hanging about their trunks and branches ready to fall, being a general peculiarity of the trees of the country, excites the attention of the stranger. Our road led through a broken but picturesque country, thinly timbered, and appeared good pasture land. We crossed a small river, called the Bingham, the country improving very much as we proceeded, abounding in beautiful park scenery, and the distant hills, rising one above the other, both thinly, and, in some situations, densely wooded, was an agreeable change to the uninteresting sameness of the country through which we had, for the most part, journeyed.
The species of Eucalyptus, termed “Box Tree,” by the colonists, was most abundant: it has a rough, scaly bark, differing in that particular from most of the other species or varieties of the same genus. On the elevated spots, the Exocarpus cupressiforme, or native cherry-tree, was seen; but the situation appeared uncongenial to its growth; for, instead of the graceful and elegantly pending branches, with delicate dark-green foliage, such as this tree presents when growing in sheltered situations, it now had a stunted, brown, and wretched appearance. About noon, we arrived at Mr. Murphy’s station at Bingham, being seventeen miles from Squashfield.