On the 26th of November I returned from “Gudarigby” to Yas Plains, by a longer but better road than that by which I came; passing through a fine open forest and luxuriant pasture land, the distance being eight or nine miles further than by scrambling over the ranges. The Rubus australis, or Australian raspberry, (char, mut’h, mut’h of the Yas natives,) was abundant. The fruit is small, devoid of flavour, but might, perhaps, be improved by cultivation. It may also be an interesting experiment to ascertain how far the Exocarpus cupressiforme, or native cherry-tree, may be made to produce a good edible fruit by grafting or culture. The greatest elevation I have seen this tree attain has been thirty to forty feet, and a diameter of a foot to a foot and a half: the fruit is insignificant, and almost tasteless. There is another species of Exocarpus abundant about Goulburn Plains, and other parts of the colony, shrubby, seldom attaining more than five or six feet elevation; bearing a white, instead of a red fruit, as in the other species just mentioned. The Eucalypti trees were now covered with a profusion of white blossoms, attracting multitudes of parroquets, who revel in the sweets afforded by the nectaries.
As the summer season was now fully set in, (December,) the previous silence of the woods was broken by the incipient, shrill, chirping noises which resounded over them, occasioned by the male Tettigoniæ, or tree hoppers, emerging from the larva into the winged state; the cases the fly had left, being seen on almost every tree or post. This genus is remarkable for the instrument with which it cuts grooves in the wood for the purpose of depositing its eggs. The musical organs, or drums, only found in the males, are not less interesting; and the best published account respecting them is that by Reamur, quoted in the very interesting work, entitled “Insect Miscellanies.” The aborigines call these insects “Galang, galang,” and formerly used them as food; first stripping off the wings, they ate them in the raw state; that is, as the native blacks told me at Yas, “when no white feller here, and black feller no get bread or yam.”
My notice was particularly directed by the natives to the drums in the male insects, as the means by which they produced their thrilling sounds; at the same time adding, in their peculiar English, “Old woman Galang, galang, no got, no make a noise;” implying that the females do not possess these musical instruments. There are several species of this genus known in Australia. During rain, these insects are silent; but recommence their clamour on the reappearance of fine weather. The native blacks at Goulburn Plains told me that the manna produced by one of the Eucalypti trees, (E. mannifera,) was the excrement of this insect: this, probably, arose in their minds, from these insects appearing on the trees in the winged state, about the same time that the manna is secreted.
Several gannets had lately been shot, about the Murrumbidgee and Yas rivers, with plumage of a brownish black colour, bills and legs black: there was, also, a bird occasionally seen in this part of the colony, bearing a close resemblance to the swift, but only seen during the months of February and March, frequenting spots where the grass was on fire, to catch insects, &c. The aborigines of Yas name it “Kriolon,” or “Kriola.”
On the 7th of December, I left Yas for the purpose of visiting the but little known country about the Tumat river. The roads were in excellent condition at this season, and the country around resembled an extensive park. The grass was luxuriant and verdant, having not yet been parched by the summer heats; and travelling was now very agreeable. After passing “Durramgullen,” (a station belonging to Mr. Barber,) and Bowning Hill, or Mountain,[88] (a conspicuous object from all parts of the Yas Plains,) I arrived at “Bugolong,” a cattle station, at the distance of thirteen miles from Yas, belonging to Mr. Hunt, but better known as “Carrol’s Station,”[89] from the name of the overseer or stock-keeper in charge.
I remained here a short time to refresh the horse, as at this station there was abundance of fine grass. The roads were now good; but in the winter season, during wet weather, are almost impassable. The country in its general appearance is broken, but very picturesque; abounding in grass, but in most parts too moist for sheep, although excellent for cattle, which fatten amazingly upon these “runs.” The “Black range” of mountains was passed at the “gap,” through which the road passes before arriving at this station. The waters, flowing from the east side of the “Black range,” fall into the Yas, and those from the west into the Murrumbidgee river; and the Yas empties or unites itself with the Murrumbidgee only a short distance from this station. I was soon again on my journey, being desirous of reaching “Jugiong” by the evening, from which I was now distant eighteen miles.
Before I had proceeded many miles, some heavy clouds which had collected from the westward, poured down a deluge of rain, accompanied by violent peals of thunder and vivid lightning: the electric fluid burst with such crashing sounds, that I expected to see the trees shattered in ten thousand pieces by my side. Not having encumbered myself with a cloak, I was fully exposed to the pelting for nearly half an hour, when wind, rain, and accompaniments subsiding, the reappearance of the sun soon dissipated the moisture from the ground, as also from myself; and by the time I arrived at the end of my journey, my apparel was as dry as when I set out. Although this would have been in our English climate an occurrence injurious to health, yet here it is rare that any ill effects arise from it; the same remark may equally apply to the custom of sleeping in the bush at night when travelling, from which no traveller has been known to sustain injury. The road continued excellent as I proceeded; but during the wet season is probably (being similar to that before passed over) nearly impassable. The feature of the country was open forest, abounding in luxuriant grass: occasionally a denser forest would vary the scene; the hills were thinly wooded, and the declivities carpeted with verdure.
At last, the gloomy appearance and peculiar growth of the “swamp oaks” indicated the vicinity of a creek, which emptied itself into the Murrumbidgee river; and, on ascending the hill near it, the ripe wheat field, and mud hovel appeared; and large “swamp oaks,” “water gum,” and other trees, directed my attention to the situation where the Murrumbidgee river flowed: this was the station named “Jugiong,” the property of Henry O’Brien, Esq.; and, descending the hill, I arrived at the dirty hut of the station, my only place of rest for the night, after a journey of thirty-six miles.
I found in this, as in other instances, more animation and beauty in the vicinity of a river, than in other portions of the land; imparting cheerfulness to the traveller, as well as to the whole animal creation. The numerous feathered tribe welcome him with songs and chirpings, rarely heard in the less watered and gloomy places, so much abounding in the colony: a livelier green is seen in the foliage of the trees; pasturage and flowering shrubs cast a beauty over the soil, and the journey about such places is less fatiguing, because it is more interesting and cheering. It was not long since that marked trees alone guided the traveller to these stations; whereas, now a well-beaten road, passable even for gigs, has been formed, making travelling upon it very agreeable.
On my arrival at this station, I found a number of the native blacks collected about, all, even the ladies, in a state of nudity, “naked, but not ashamed:” some were busily employed in making rude spears, by sharpening the point of a long stick, which was afterwards hardened in the fire: they were preparing to hunt their “evening prey.” “Give them,” the men at the stations observe, “ever so much bread or meat, still they will hunt opossum and other game.” The spears they used, were twelve or fourteen feet in length. On a sunny day, when there is little wind, the water clear, and comparatively tranquil, the aborigines go on the river in small bark canoes to spear fish, more particularly about the rocky parts of the river, and usually return with a large quantity: they also spear the “water-mole,” (Ornithorynchus,) if they observe any during the river excursion. Nothing comes amiss to the blacks for food: they may be said to devour “every living thing that runs upon the surface of the earth, or in the waters beneath.”