I was prevented, by the unfavourable state of the weather, from undertaking the journey until the 12th of December, at dawn of which day, accompanied by a stock-keeper and some of the blacks, I commenced my excursion. The day was fine; and by taking a circuitous path on the declivities of the hills, we were able to ascend on horseback.[98] After riding over the lower ranges, we arrived a short distance above the base of the Bugong Mountain, tethered the horses, and ascended on foot, by a steep and rugged path, which led us to the first summit of the mountain; at this place, called Gúnundery by the natives, enormous masses of granite rock, piled one upon another, and situated on the verge of a wooded precipice, excited our attention. An extensive and romantic view was here obtained of a distant, wooded, mountainous country.
This was the first place where, upon the smooth sides or crevices of the granite blocks, the Bugong moths congregated in such incredible multitudes; but from the blacks having recently been here, we found but few of the insects remaining.[99] At one part of this group of granite rocks were two pools, apparently hollowed naturally from the solid stone, and filled with cool and clear water; so, lighting a fire, we enjoyed a cup of tea previous to re-commencing our further ascent. On proceeding, we found the rise more gradual, but unpleasant from the number of loose stones and branches of trees strewed about: several of the deserted bark huts of the natives (which they had temporarily erected when engaged in collecting and preparing the Bugong) were scattered around. Shrubs and plants were numerous[100] as we proceeded; but, with few exceptions, did not differ from those seen in other parts of the colony.
Near a small limpid stream, a species of Lycopodium grew so dense as to form a carpet over which we were able to walk. The timber trees towered to so great an elevation, that the prospect of the country we had anticipated was impeded. At last we arrived at another peculiar group of granite rocks, in enormous masses and of various forms: this place, similar to the last, formed the locality where the Bugong moths congregate, and is called “Warrogong[101]” by the natives: the remains of recent fires apprised us that the aborigines had only recently left the place for another of similar character a few miles further distant.
Our native guides wished us to proceed and join the tribe; but the day had so far advanced, that it was thought more advisable to return, because it was doubtful, as the blacks removed from a place as soon as they had cleared it of the insects, whether we should find them at the next group, or removed to others still further distant.
From the result of my observations, it appears that the insects are only found in such multitudes on these insulated and peculiar masses of granite; for about the other solitary granite rocks, so profusely scattered over the range, I did not observe a single moth, or even the remains of one. Why they should be confined only to these particular places, or for what purpose they thus collect together, is not a less curious than interesting subject of inquiry. Whether it be for the purpose of emigrating, or any other cause, our present knowledge cannot satisfactorily answer.[102] The view from this second group was open to the southward, and was a continued series of densely-wooded ranges, differing in their degrees of elevation. When standing on these enormous masses of granite, I thought some of the most distant mountains, in a south-west direction, appeared, some covered and others streaked with snow: I was correct; for the beautiful clearness of the weather had afforded me a view of the “Snow Mountains,” the existence of which has been doubted by many. Whilst looking at them, one of the blacks came near me, and pointing in their direction, informed me, in English, it was snow.[103]
The Bugong moths, as I have before observed, collect on the surfaces and also in the crevices of the masses of granite in incredible quantities: to procure them with greater facility, the natives make smothered fires underneath those rocks about which they are collected, and suffocate them with smoke, at the same time sweeping them off frequently in bushels-full at a time. After they have collected a large quantity, they proceed to prepare them, which is done in the following manner.
A circular space is cleared upon the ground, of a size proportioned to the number of insects to be prepared; on it a fire is lighted and kept burning until the ground is considered to be sufficiently heated, when, the fire being removed, and the ashes cleared away, the moths are placed upon the heated ground, and stirred about until the down and wings are removed from them; they are then placed on pieces of bark, and winnowed to separate the dust and wings mixed with the bodies: they are then eaten, or placed into a wooden vessel called a “Walbun, or Culibun,”[104] and pounded by a piece of wood into masses or cakes resembling lumps of fat, and may be compared in colour and consistence to dough made from smutty wheat mixed with fat. The bodies of the moths are large, and filled with a yellowish oil, resembling in taste a sweet nut. These masses (with which the “Netbuls” or “Talabats” of the native tribes are loaded, during the season of feasting upon the “Bugong,”) will not keep above a week, and seldom even for that time; but by smoking they are able to preserve them for a much longer period. The first time this diet is used by the native tribes, violent vomiting and other debilitating effects are produced; but after a few days they become accustomed to its use, and then thrive and fatten exceedingly upon it.
These insects are held in such estimation among the aborigines, that they assemble from all parts of the country to collect them from these mountains. It is not only the native blacks that resort to the “Bugong,” but crows also congregate for the same purpose. The blacks (that is, the crows and aborigines) do not agree about their respective shares, so the stronger decides the point; for when the crows (called “Arabul” by the natives) enter the hollows of the rocks to feed upon the insects, the natives stand at the entrance, and kill them as they fly out, and afford them an excellent meal, being fat from feeding upon the rich Bugong. So eager are these feathered blacks or Arabuls after this food, that they attack it even when it is preparing by the natives; but as the aborigines never consider any increase of food a misfortune, they lay in wait for the Arabuls, with waddies or clubs, kill them in great numbers, and use them as food.
The Arabul is, I believe, not distinct from the common crow found on the low lands, and which is called “Gundagiar” or “Worgan” by the natives: the distinction, according to native report, is, that the “fat fellers,” or those who feed on the Bugong, are called Arabul, and the “poor fellers,” or those who pick up what they can get on the low lands, are designated by the latter names. About February and March the former visit the lowland, having become in fine plump condition from their luxurious feeding. The assemblage of so many different tribes of natives at this season about the same range, and for similar objects, causes frequent skirmishes to take place between them; and oftentimes this particular place and season is appointed to decide animosities by actual battles, and the conquered party lose their supply of Bugong for the season.