CHAPTER XVIII.
Leave Sydney—Rottenest Island—Colonial prospects—Voyage to Batavia—Prince’s Island—The Java coast—Anchor in Batavia roads—The river—Alligators—Streets of Batavia—M. Choulan’s tavern—Forests—Java ponies—A veterinary monkey—Public buildings—The traveller’s tree—Celebrated Javanese chief—Sketch of his life and actions—Exactions of the Dutch government—The orang-utan—Society in Batavia—Animals of Java—Doves—Dried specimen of the hippocampus.
On the 14th of March I left Sydney, in the ship “Sir Thomas Munro,” for Batavia, taking the southern passage, the winds obliged us to pass round Van Dieman’s Land. On the 22nd, “Schouten’s Island” was seen bearing west by south, and “St. Patrick’s Head,” north-west by compass, about twenty-five miles distant; and on the 23rd, Cape Pillar bore west by south-half-south; and “Maria Island” north by west-half-west by compass; distant about thirty miles. We had to beat against strong westerly winds; and at noon, of the 22nd of April, D’Entrecasteaux Point bore east by north, distant about twenty miles, and extreme of the land to the northward, north-east by compass. The appearance of the coast was sterile. On the 23rd, we passed “Cape Leeuwin.” When first seen, it had the appearance of a moderately high island, the land connecting it with the main being low, and not at that time visible from the deck.
On the 26th, we were off “Rottenest Island,” which was of a moderate height, and most sterile appearance. The main land was sandy and scrubby: numerous fires were seen where land was clearing. A boat came off as we were endeavouring to beat into Gage’s roads, and came alongside, with two gentlemen in her. They could furnish us, however, with no news respecting the Dutch war, to attain information respecting which was the object of our wishing to touch at this place. In reply to our inquiries respecting the state of the new colony, they said it was rapidly progressing. Of the settlements at King George’s Sound and Port Augusta, the latter was reported as succeeding better than the former. There had been lately several arrivals with live stock from Hobart Town, and a brig, the “Dart,” from Sydney, was then standing in for Gage’s roads with a cargo of provision and live stock. Sheep at this period were selling from thirty to forty shillings each; flour from twenty to thirty pounds per ton; and potatoes at the enormous price of twenty-five pounds per ton. It was expected, however, that in the course of another year the colony would be able to raise produce sufficient for its consumption. No vessels had been lost at Swan River since the first year, and with common precautions it was considered there was no risk.
At two P.M. we proceeded on our voyage to Batavia. On the 13th of May we had the south-east trade, in lat. 21° 15′ south, lon. 138° 13′ east. On the 4th of May we crossed from 108° 13′ to 106° 58′ east longitude, (in a run of eight days from Swan River,) being the track recommended by Horsburg, to look for the “Trial Rocks,” but did not see them.[128] On the 5th, several tropic birds, of the roseate and white species, were about the ship, although we were then distant three hundred and seventy miles from “Christmas Island,” which was the nearest land.[129] On the 7th, boobies, frigate birds, and white and rose-coloured tropic birds, indicated the vicinity of “Christmas Island,” which was seen about midnight, by the light of the moon, bearing north-east by north, by compass, distant twelve or fourteen miles. On the 10th we were becalmed three or four miles off the south-west side of “Clapp’s Island,” which was low, densely wooded with cocoa-palms, and other trees, even to the water’s edge: a heavy surf rolled upon the sandy beach, and on reefs extending from each extremity.
Early in the morning, on the 11th, we were off the north-west side of “Prince’s Island,” and the land wind brought with it a delicious balmy fragrance; the extensive reef, running out a long distance from the south-west point, on which a heavy surf broke, was distinctly seen. This island, low at one part, is high and mountainous at another. It was late in the afternoon before we had a clear view of its lofty peaked mountain. The island was densely wooded, having a picturesque and verdant appearance. During the morning, which was showery, we slowly coasted along the island, at about four or five miles distant. As the weather cleared up about noon, the scenery gratified the eye with its varied tints, refreshed by the genial showers, and recalled to my memory those gems of the ocean distributed over the Polynesian Archipelago.
As we proceeded along the Java coast, having the lofty Crokatoa Peak, and others of the adjacent islands in view, light and variable winds and calms, with adverse currents, rendered our passage slow and tedious, and often obliged us to anchor. We were, on these occasions, visited by canoes, with fowls, eggs, turtle, &c. The outline of this island is at some parts low, wooded, and uninteresting; whilst at others, lofty mountains rise one above the other, until the towering “Mount Karang” terminates the view. The varied tints of the vegetation, covering the mountains from the margin of the sea to the loftiest summits the eye could attain, had a rich and beautiful appearance, as the setting sun cast its rays over the landscape. Occasionally the thatched Javanese habitations became visible, peeping from beneath a canopy of wood. Most Malay villages are buried amidst the foliage of tropical fruit and other trees, which form a cool and agreeable shelter; but such situations cannot be regarded as conducive to health.
After a tedious passage since making the Island of Java, we passed “Onrust Island,” which is the marine depôt, where ships are hove down and repaired; there are some neat buildings erected upon it, with rows of trees before them, in the usual Dutch style: but silence reigned; there was no bustle; and the black countenances of two sepoys were all the human beings visible. We anchored in Batavia Roads on the 21st; and the scene before us was a low wooded coast, lofty mountains in the distance; a few tiled houses, or native huts, scattered among the trees; and an extensive jetty, which is erecting on each side of the river: the town being built on a swamp, and planted with trees, was entirely concealed from the shipping in the roadstead.[130]
The following day we passed up the river, by the boat being tracked: (the current running down at a rapid rate, preventing boats being pulled against it;) on each side an extensive wooden jetty was erecting, a great portion of which was now completed; it extended to the bar at the river’s entrance, with a breakwater in front, having a passage on each side for boats. The expense of the construction of this jetty is paid by a duty of five per cent. being levied upon the amount of duties on all imported goods. A number of native convicts were employed in driving piles, &c. to complete this very useful undertaking.