The vessels were rigged in the European style, appeared of English build, and carried guns like merchant ships. They hoisted a huge, broad, red pennant, and the Acheenese ensign, the field of which was red, the central ornaments of a white colour.
Soon after we anchored, an old moorman came off to the ship, from the rajah, and arrangements were made to accompany him on shore the next morning to pay our respects to his highness.
On the morning of the following day, I accompanied Mr. Henry Fearon, (the supercargo), and the commander, on a visit to the shore, to have an interview with the rajah; one of his attendants having previously been on board, bearing a multitude of salaams from his highness, and intimating that he would be happy to receive the gentlemen arrived in the ship. At the entrance of the river, we crossed the bar, upon which a surf is continually breaking, more violently at low water, or when the sea breeze blows fresh, than at high water.[140] At this time there was comparatively but little surf, so we passed without getting wet. We then entered the small winding river, which, although deep at some parts, suddenly shoaled at others, except the channel was kept, which usually had a sufficient draught of water for light boats; but an inexperienced person had better have a native to pilot him, which prevents the annoyance of continually getting the boat perched upon spits and sand-banks. The course of the river is very serpentine; and after entering it, the banks are covered with shrubs and plants, forming a dense vegetation, among which Acanthus ilicifolia, covered by a profusion of cærulean blossoms and other flowering shrubs, were numerous, as also the Achrosticum aureum, and other ferns. Native houses appeared mingled with the graceful, waving bamboo, cocoa palms, plantains, and other trees.
After proceeding a short distance up the river, we arrived at the small village of Pedir, which is a collection of thatched Malay habitations. Herds of buffaloes were refreshing themselves in the stream, and had a strange appearance when seen with only the head above water. The natives informed us that alligators were numerous in the river. We did not observe any during the time we remained at Pedir; and from the buffaloes not being attacked, it is probable they are not numerous about the lower part of the river. After bathing, the buffaloes not being troubled with many of the projections called hairs, had their hides covered with a thick coating of blue mud, which preserved them from the attacks of insects. Those on the banks, both old and young, stood, with their ludicrous physiognomies, staring at us as we passed them. A number of the small humpbacked Bengal breed of cattle were also observed feeding about the plain.
On leaving the ship, arms had been placed in the boat as a precautionary measure on this coast, where the natives are reported to be oftentimes unable to distinguish between meum and tuum; but on landing they were left in the boat, and our Jacks, not having the fear of the natives, or of a reprimand from their commander, before their eyes, took a morning’s walk about the village, leaving the boat, together with our weapons, under charge of a boy, which proved the precaution was needless, as the arms, reposing at the bottom of the boat, were in this instance equally as effective as if they had been in the hands of the men.
After landing, we were conducted through an extensive bazaar, planted with several shady trees, called Ba, assan, by the natives; the closeness of their foliage and extending branches affording an agreeable shelter from the fervour of the sun’s rays: the market seemed well supplied.
We were conducted from this to the “Hall of Reception” for strangers, which was a small room, elevated a short distance above the ground, opened on all sides, with an ornamental projecting roof: the ascent to it was by a rude bamboo ladder, like an approach to a hay-loft; but as the rajah ascended by the same staircase, of course we could not complain. On entering the room, we found some chairs of European manufacture, standing on four legs, but most of them minus arms, backs, &c. In these we were requested to seat ourselves until the rajah arrived. Some coarse mats were also laid upon the floor in the centre of the room—or perhaps cage would be a better nomenclature than room, for it was more like the latter than the former.
We waited patiently the arrival of the rajah for some time, surrounded and gazed at by several old, grave-looking, bearded Moormen, who remained silent, as their organs of mastication were almost incessantly engaged in chewing the “betel,” their teeth being blackened, and lips become of a brick-red colour, from the use of this masticatory: it is said that it is a good stomachic, causing the breath to be always sweet; and the assertion may be correct, for the breath of natives who are in the habit of chewing the aromatic compound is agreeable; but the discoloration of the teeth and mouth caused by its use, gives a disagreeable appearance to those who habituate themselves to it. Whilst delayed by the rajah, we were regaled by the pure and refreshing juice from some green cocoa-nuts: at length his highness arrived.
He was a young man of very dark, but handsomely-formed features, (darker by two shades than the Malays,) about five feet five or six inches in height, of slender form, and attired in the usual native Sarong; a yellow silk Sandalong, or sash, around the waist, in which a Kris, of handsome manufacture, was placed; a close Baju, or jacket, with plated buttons in front; upon his head a turban of white cloth, without any decorations; and gold bangles around his wrists and ancles: his attendants were almost all Moormen, or natives of Bengal and Madras; many from the latter countries, and others, of that extraction, born at this place. The rajah, although born here, had the appearance of being of Bengal parentage. The grave old gentlemen around were the principal spokesmen on affairs of business.