On the 13th of November I sailed from Macao for Singapore, with fine weather, and the wind from north-east to east-north-east. On the 19th, Cape Varella was seen at noon, bearing north-west about thirty miles distant, and with continued breezes from the north-east and north-north-east: saw Pulo Sapata at noon of the 20th, the bearing being west half-south, about eighteen miles distant. On the 22nd, after squally weather, a hawk was for several mornings seen about the ship, occasioning the fowls to make a great noise at his presence; we were then in latitude 6° 34′ north, and longitude 106° 28′ east. On the 24th at noon, Pulo Aor was in sight, bearing south-west half-west; Pulo Pisang, west by south; Pulo Tinian, west half-north by compass. All these islands were elevated, and densely wooded.

On the 26th we passed Pedro Blanco, a reef of rocks some distance above the water, and situated in about the centre of the straits; a large number of birds, apparently terns, were about them. I had much doubt in my mind, whether the white appearance of the upper surface of these rocks was the effect of the dung of birds, but rather conjectured, in the absence of ocular proof, that it was of a calcareous nature. Observing a group of rocks not far distant from the settlement of Singapore, exhibiting the same white appearance on the surface above water as the Pedro Blanco, I determined to visit them for the purpose of examining their structure; on the evening of the day on which I observed it, I went out in a boat with some friends, but a very heavy swell prevented the attainment of my object at this time. The Malays in the boat, when they heard what I wished to ascertain, declared it to be produced by the first-mentioned cause; but on the following morning I succeeded in getting upon it, when my previously formed opinion was confirmed, by finding the upper surface calcareous, at some parts more or less discoloured. The formation of the rock was secondary, being of a red sandstone, and in many specimens, which I broke off, I observed a very minute line of sandstone, running through the calcareous substance; although other parts of this rock were also calcareous, yet they had not a white appearance, from being covered and discoloured by marine conferva and minute crustaceous animals, to such an extent as to entirely lose their white appearance unless broken; and the marine animals being constantly in the other rocks washed by the sea, which the high and white rock was not, caused a still further increase of marine weeds, &c. upon them. I collected some excellent specimens, showing the two different strata very distinctly.

About ten P.M. of the 26th, we anchored in Singapore roads; and upon the following day I landed and took up my residence, during my stay at the settlement, with my friend Mr. Boustead.

The island of Singapore,[48] at the part on which the settlement has been formed, has a very picturesque and beautiful appearance, when seen from the ships at anchor in the roads; and does not prove less attractive to the stranger on landing: the government hill, with its neat bungalow and flag-staff, forms a prominent feature in the view; and the undulating character of the land, with the thickly-timbered country in the distance, imparts a pleasing variety. Who can regard this settlement, so very recently established, yet now become a place of importance by the enterprise of British merchants, (almost unaided by any assistance from government,) without feeling how just the conclusion is, that commerce can elevate the most barren and unproductive spot to a place of high importance? Look at the magnificent private mansions, warehouses, and the extent of commerce, showing the present and increasing wealth of this rising settlement. The town is erected upon the banks of a salt-water creek, more commonly named the Singapore river: one side contains the warehouses, offices, stores, &c. of the merchants and shopkeepers, as well as the native streets, bazaars, &c. Opposite to it is an extensive plain, adorned by several elegant mansions; and beyond the Kampong Glam,[49] and Malay town, with the residence of the sultan of Johore and his followers: from him the island was purchased by the British government, for which he still receives the annual pension which had been stipulated at the time. Close to the creek, which has received the more dignified appellation of the “Singapore river,” wharfs extend from and opposite to the offices and warehouses of the merchants. The two most extensive and splendid buildings are those recently erected by Messrs. Armstrong and Gemmil. The Commercial Square contains some very good buildings, used as offices, shops, and residences; the most conspicuous of which, for elegance, is the building used as offices and warehouses by the firm of Rawson, Holdsworth, and Co. The river, at the lower part of the settlement, always presents an animated scene, from the arrival and departure of native boats, with fruit, vegetables, and live stock, as well as from the number of neat sampans plying for hire, or attending upon the commanders of vessels, who employ them, in this sultry climate, in preference to exposing their crews to a tropical sun: many native boats lie waiting or delivering cargoes of the various productions of the fertile islands in the vicinity. At night, the flickering and brilliant lights from the numerous boats upon the river, make an animated appearance.

Rains are frequent at Singapore throughout the year, but more especially during the months of November, December, and January. The principal buildings are constructed of bricks, and roofed with red tiles; but many of the Chinese dwellings and shops are constructed of wood. The roads in the town, and also in the vicinity of the settlement, are excellent, being of a mixture of sand with a clay iron ore, which make very durable roads. The markets at Singapore are well supplied with all kinds of provision, vegetables, and fruit; and considering how little the island in itself produces, and that the supplies are brought from Malacca and the neighbouring islands, are sold at a very cheap rate. The population of the settlement of Singapore consists of nearly twenty thousand, exclusive of the troops and convicts, (the troops being about five hundred, and the convicts eight hundred in number,) the majority of which is formed by the Chinese.

Comparative Statement of the Census taken on the 1st January, 1833.

1832. 1833. Increase. Decrease.
Mal. Fem. Mal. Fem. Mal. Fem. Mal. Fem.
Europeans 83 22 91 28 8 6 — —
Indo-Britons 67 27 56 40 — 13 11 —
Native Christians 274 146 167 133 — — 107 13
Armenians 20 6 27 8 7 2 — —
Jews 5 — 2 — — — 3 —
Arabs 61 3 96 — 35 — — 3
Malays 3748 3467 3763 3368 15 — — 99
Chinese 7149 613 7650 867 501 254 — —
Natives of the Coast of Coromandel 1374 40 1762 57 388 17 — —
Natives of Hindostan 408 121 389 116 — — 19 5
Javanese 391 253 361 234 — — 30 19
Bugis, Balinese &c. &c. 735 692 794 932 59 240 — —
Caffries 7 1 23 14 16 13 — —
Parsees 2 — — — — — 2 —
Total 14324 5391 15181 5797 1029 545 172 139
Females 5391 — 5797 — 545 — 139 —
Total Inhabitants 19715 — 20978 — 1574 — 311 —
Deduct decrease 311
Increase in 1833 1263

Singapore Chronicle, Feb. 7, 1833.

Respecting the first settlement of Singapore: “In the first agreement,” says Crawford, “with the native chief, the arrangement amounted to little more than a permission for the formation of a British factory and establishment, along two miles of the northern shore, and inland to the extent of the point-blank range of a cannon-shot. There was, in reality, no territorial cession giving a legal right of legislation. The only law which could have existed was the Malay code. The native chief was considered to be the proprietor of the land, even within the bounds of the British factory; and he was to be entitled, in perpetuity, to one half of such duties of customs as might hereafter be levied at the port. In the progress of the settlement, these arrangements were of course found highly inconvenient and embarrassing, and were annulled by the treaty I am about to describe.