The first approach to this island is far from being attractive to the visitor, consisting of lofty, sterile precipices, without a speck of verdure to relieve the eye. The summits of the highest around the island are occupied by signal stations, and are almost in constant requisition, from the number of vessels continually arriving at this “Rock.” Small batteries, mounting several guns, occupy every ledge of rock where defence seems to be required; and in some places a solitary gun is perched; so that the island is rendered perfectly impregnable both by nature and art. On advancing toward the anchorage, the barren cliffs, which before alone met the eye, are both varied and contrasted by mountains covered with verdure, rising from the inland part of the island, about which a few white houses are also seen scattered.
The castellated building, called High Knowle, has a pretty and picturesque effect, perched on the summit of a very high eminence, and reminding one of the castles in similar situations seen on the picturesque banks of the Rhine.
James’s Town is a small, neat town, built in a vale, or glen, which gradually recedes as it proceeds inland; and the town is confined on each side by volcanic cliffs of a great elevation, and of the most barren aspect. The neat church is readily distinguished by its tower; and the green foliage of vegetation in the gardens adjoining the houses charms the eye by the agreeable contrast.
We landed, without inconvenience, at the steps near the watering-place, on the left of the anchorage; but it often happens that the surf and eddy renders a landing extremely inconvenient, and even dangerous. A broad causeway led to James’s battery, heavily mounted with cannon, and situated in front of the town. Here I observed a grove of trees, the Ficus religiosa, whose presence afforded an agreeable shade: it is a tree usually seen planted in India about the Hindoo temples, and held in veneration by the natives. Passing through a gate, we entered the esplanade, in which the government-house and garden and the church are situated. The principal streets and shops of the town, and some very neat houses in the English style, attract the attention of the visitor.
The extent of the town (from being built in a narrow, receding valley) cannot be seen until the ascent of the Longwood road is gained, when it gradually opens,—and the barracks, hospital, and houses, surrounded by neat gardens, in the villa style of architecture, have a very pleasing effect, more particularly by contrast, as the towering, rugged rocks, on each side, are destitute of any verdure.
Although buildings, language, manners, customs, &c., are all English, yet the number of black and tawny people gives a foreign appearance to the place; nor was our surprise lessened, by walking in the evening about the town, to observe the incredible number of children, of all the variety of tints between white and black, playing about. It would excite Malthus, after viewing the comparative sterility of the island, and seeing its incapability of providing for a surplus population, to rail against such an astonishing increase of the human race.
Over-population is not the only complaint in the town. The streets are not so well paved, and the rugged stones impede the pleasure which the stranger would derive from a walk, after he had been for some time confined in the limited space afforded by a ship. Of fruit, some large pears, peaches, grapes, and figs, were abundant, and could be purchased at very reasonable prices. Excellent vegetables, consisting of carrots, turnips, French-beans, cabbage, water-cresses, and cucumbers, were to be readily procured, forming refreshment to visitors after a protracted voyage, and excellent stock for shipping.
The great object of attraction, however, to the visitor, and the interest, both on the first appearance, and on landing, is naturally directed towards him who was an exile on this barren rock—the hero of a
“——thousand thrones,
Who strew’d our earth with hostile bones.”