Fish is very abundant, and not confined, as I formerly supposed, to albicore, mackarel, boneto, and flying-fish; but they have a great number of species, (it has been stated amounting to even so many as a hundred and twenty,) consisting of bream, perch, &c.; and many I tasted, were of very excellent and delicate flavour.
On the afternoon of the following day, (25th,) we sailed from St. Helena, and experienced between that island and Ascension a light trade-wind, which would occasionally freshen for a short period. Early on the morning of the 4th of March, the Island of Ascension was seen, bearing north-west-half-west, by compass distant about twenty-five miles.[87] Our course was steered, so as to pass close to the settlement. The appearance of the island is sterile in the extreme, seeming only calculated for the habitation of the numerous oceanic birds which hovered about the ship in great numbers. Volcanic rocks, in rugged and mis-shapen masses, terminating in abrupt precipices, or shelving declivities, form the principal feature of the island. And when the clouds which enveloped the Green Mountain passed away, its verdant character contrasted in a very beautiful manner with the sterile rocks and mountains, red with the tufa, or volcanic ash, beneath. Some little white habitations, perched on the ledge of one part of the lofty eminence, and distinctly seen from the ship, had a very pretty and pleasing effect, as a bright sun diffused its rays over the scene, which for some time remained clear from even a passing cloud.
A number of gannets were busily engaged in fishing, and, from the shoals of flying-fish about, must have enjoyed excellent sport. The frigate birds, (Trachypetes aquila, Vieill.) on the contrary, hovered over the vessel, viewing with curiosity the expanded sails and progressive motion of the ship, “walking the waters like a thing of life,” regarding it, with their usual indolence and aristocracy of manner, instead of fishing like the other industrious birds about them. From all the frigate-birds having white abdomens, and being deficient in the red pouch, I presume they were females. The bills of the whole of those about the ship were of a dirty white colour, although described in several works of natural history as red.
On a former voyage, a female of the man-of-war hawk (Trachypetes aquila) was shot off this island from the deck of the ship, from the numbers which hovered over the vessel. The bird, when struck by the shot, made for the land; but soon after, as if feeling that it would be unable to reach it, returned, with a wavering flight, towards the ship, and we felt confident that she would come on board; approaching the ship, her flight became lower and more unsteady, until she fell dead into the water, quite close to the ship, near the mizen chains, just as we were in expectation that she would have fallen upon the poop.
Numerous sea-swallows (Sterna hirundo, Linn.) and brown boobies flew about the ship as we approached nearer the land; the former fishing in groups. After the toil of the day, they return in small flocks to the island, usually about the close of the evening, (as well as the gannets and other birds that do not wander far from the land,) reposing and breeding among the ledges of the huge masses of sterile volcanic rocks.[88]
The frigate birds, (or sea-hawks, as they are also named,) are seldom or never seen far distant from land: the male birds are black, and have a red pouch; the females have a white breast, and are destitute of the pouch. In procuring fish for their food, these birds prefer seizing it from the boobies and gannets, instead of catching it themselves. To attain this object, the sea-hawk hovers above the gannet, (which is the bird most usually selected for attack,) and, darting rapidly down, strikes him on the back of the head, causing him to disgorge his prey, which is seized by the hawk with an inconceivable rapidity before it reaches the water, and afterwards soars aloft to look out for another object of attack. It is not an uncommon circumstance to observe a single gannet selected from a flock, and come out to be the subject of attack, as if he had been called by the hawk in preference to the others. The gannet, however, manœuvres to avoid the blow, by darting about, lowering himself from his elevation in the air at every dart, and, raising his beak in a perpendicular direction; by these means it eludes the blow of the hawk from behind, and they frequently both fall into the water together; the hawk only having the advantage over the gannet when hovering in the air, the latter escapes. At the Island of Ascension, where these birds are common, I was informed by Lieutenant M’Arthur, (Marine Artillery,) that the method practised by the hawks to oblige the gannet to disgorge their prey, was tried by a gentleman who lately visited the island: he had seen the attack of the hawk on the gannet, and the successful result. When he visited the part of the island named “The Fair,” where these birds congregate in great numbers, he struck some of them with a cane on the back of the head, and the disgorgement of the fish they had swallowed immediately took place.
By three P.M. we were off the settlement, in the roadstead of which an American ship, and several British men-of-war, were lying at anchor. We did not enter the roadstead, but, hoisting our ensign and number, proceeded on our voyage, and by the evening left the island far in the distance.
Having on a former voyage, in 1831, visited and landed upon this island, I perhaps may be excused for introducing the following account, from observations made at that period:—
About noon (of the 10th of February, 1831) we were off the settlement situated on the north-west side of the island, and several neatly-constructed houses appeared enlivening a little the barren scene around. A transport (St. Croix) was at anchor in the roads, having just arrived with stores; a boat came off from the settlement, with a book, in which the ship’s name, &c. was inserted. I accompanied the commander on a visit to the shore: the landing is sometimes dangerous, on account of the surf; at this time it was very easily effected. The landing-place was on a flight of steps, at the extremity of a wharf; a small crane was near, to assist boats in approaching, and persons in landing. A delightful trade breeze rendered the air cool, which would otherwise have been intolerable, on account of the reflection of the sun from the sand and lava. The residences of the garrison, store-houses, &c., were neat constructions, and had been lately completed: many other buildings were in progress. The island has now been fortified at every part considered accessible; these points being few, however, not many batteries were required. The establishment consists of marines and marine artillery, (about four hundred,) under a commandant, Captain Bates. The privates are masons, carpenters, quarrymen, &c.; the houses are constructed by them, and, in fact, they undertake all the laborious work. This island is considered of great importance, being directly in the track of our homeward-bound shipping from the East Indies, &c., and would, in the event of a war, have afforded a rendezvous for the enemy’s cruizers.
I was informed that excellent soil was found under the lava, at a depth of two feet: cultivation of vegetables, &c. is at present confined to the green mountain; the present object of fortifying and erecting buildings on the island being completed, cultivation will be more attended to. The beach, at first thought to be composed of sand, was found to consist of very small fragments of shells: in some places they had become (from some cause not readily accounted for) firmly compacted together. These slabs were formed of several layers, of which the size of the fragments differs in each layer: they are used for tomb-stones, steps of doors, and are broken and burned for lime. Of the vegetable kingdom, a species of Euphorbia only was growing, distributed in small tufts, but not very abundantly, about the rugged lava; it was at this time in flower: this simple plant was, indeed, a beautiful object amidst such barren scenes. There are three species of butterflies on the island, of handsome colours.