The streets of Macao are very narrow: this, however, affords shelter to the pedestrian from the fervent rays of the sun; they are likewise ill-paved and very steep, the houses rising from the Praya Grande on one side, and the inner harbour on the other, terrace upon terrace, and are constructed upon a very solid foundation of rock: the pavement consists of smooth and rough stones, without any attention having been given to their relative sizes; so that a person taking a short walk, may often expect to return with a strained ancle.
The private residences of the Europeans are very convenient, spacious, and more delightful for their interior accommodation, than for any exterior beauty.
Many vessels have been sent to the east coast of China, by enterprising merchants of Canton, to endeavour, if possible, to open a trade with some of the Chinese ports on that coast. A highly-talented gentleman, the Rev. C. Gutzlaff, with whom I had the gratification of forming an acquaintance, has often accompanied the vessels; but the result has been a very limited degree of success; the imbecility of the Chinese government has been fully ascertained; and during the last voyage, edicts were stuck about the village off which the vessel had anchored, stating that the foreign vessel had been driven away, while she still remained at anchor within sight of these very papers, endeavouring to carry on some traffic with the inhabitants; but, from the fear of the mandarins, it was effected but to a very limited extent. It is stated that the embassy of Lord Amherst is still mentioned by the Chinese, who say that it was fully expected, from the force he had with him, he would not have suffered himself to be driven away, but would have obliged the Chinese government to accede to any terms he chose to propose.
The gentleman I have before mentioned, the Rev. C. Gutzlaff, is well acquainted with several dialects of the Chinese language, which he speaks with such fluency, as to be, when disguised, taken for a Chinese: he studies mankind, and endeavours to spread the Christian religion in a truly missionary spirit, so as to conduce (which a pure religion necessarily must do) to the happiness of the people: he also endeavours to effect his benevolent purpose towards them, by distributing tracts relating to the sciences of astronomy, geography, &c. written in the Chinese language; endeavouring, by an admirable religious feeling of benevolence, to promote the welfare of the people by spreading a purer religion than they possess; at the same time cultivating their minds in other branches of knowledge, enabling them to receive more vividly the impressions of the divine Spirit. Would that all our missionaries followed the same plan! how inestimable, then, should I consider their cause!
The inner harbour of Macao is spacious, and capable of affording anchorage to a large number of ships, safely sheltered from every gale; but only twenty-five European vessels are permitted to anchor, and those only which belong to the Spanish or Portuguese nations; excepting in case of distress, when a ship of any other European power may require immediate repairs; but even then there is much trouble and difficulty in procuring the requisite permission: this proceeds from the usual jealousy of the Chinese government towards Europeans. Nearly two centuries ago, or perhaps more, permission was granted by the Chinese authorities for twenty-five foreign vessels of the Portuguese and Spanish nations to enter the harbour; and these are always regarded by this extraordinarily blinded people to be the very identical vessels which had at that time received the original indulgence from the imperial government.[13]
Fruit is neither particularly abundant nor excellent in this part of China; the great variety of oranges may be regarded the best, as also the elegant scarlet Lit, chi (Dimocarpus litchi). There is another fruit, of which also there are several varieties—it is a Diospyrus,—(the Diospyrus Kaki?[14]) or Chinese date plum. One of the varieties known by the Chinese under the name of Ngnow, sum, tzee, or bull’s heart Diospyrus—(Ngnow signifying bull; sum, heart; tzee, this particular fruit, the Diospyrus)—resembles, in external appearance, a Tomata, except in being of a larger size, and of a bright red colour: when divided, it is found to contain a yellowish semi-transparent pulp, not unlike a plum either in flavour or appearance, and contains several oblong brownish seeds. The outer skin has an astringent property, which discolours the steel of a knife when employed to divide the fruit, which is not at all requisite for the purpose. The other kind is much smaller, oval, about the size of a date; being similar to the former in colour; it is called by the Chinese Kai, sum, tzee, or fowl’s heart Diospyrus: in taste it closely resembles the mawkish sweetness of a ripe date. I had only an opportunity of seeing two of the varieties of this fruit, but there are several other kinds.[15] The flat peach, or “Peen to” (peen signifying flat, and to, peach) of the Chinese, is a variety of the peach, appearing, although in reality of a perfectly natural form, to have had its flatness produced by artificial means. The blossoms of the tree are double, but fertile. The fruit is described as being of an excellent flavour.
The canes, so much valued, and sold usually at a high price, and known by the name of the Wang, hee, (Wang signifying yellow, and hee, root,) are said to be the root of the narrow-leaved bamboo, which grows abundantly about Macao, forming very pretty hedges or inclosures: these are valuable and rare, on account of the sufficiently straight descending roots being difficult to procure; many trees must consequently be destroyed before those particular roots of the requisite length and straightness can be obtained. The roots of this bamboo are very troublesome when planted, more especially in a garden, from spreading so far, and so much towards the surface of the ground, as to tear up the paths, &c.
I visited, in company with Mr. Fearon, the Casa garden, in which is situated the principal object of my visit—“Camoens’ Cave;” celebrated as the spot where that distinguished poet wrote the poem of the Lusiad. It is not correct to call it a cave—it is merely masses of granite rocks piled one over the other in that extraordinary and romantic manner in which that kind of rock is so often seen grouped; and this forms a kind of archway, which has been denominated a cave. Delightfully surrounded by umbrageous trees, and shrubs overhanging the rocks, the seclusion of the spot might well have been chosen by one inclined to meditate and compose; where all the objects around him would not fail to excite the poetical imagination to a much higher degree than could possibly be effected in the hurry and bustle of society. A summer-house has been erected upon these granite masses.
Some beautiful Latin verses (which I hope to see engraved and placed on the spot) have been written by J. Davies, Esq., who having kindly favoured me with a copy, I with pleasure insert them.