CONTENTS OF VOL. I.

Introduction by the Editors

page

CHAPTER I.

Man overboard—The Tagus—ForeignLanguages—Gesticulation—Streets of Lisbon—TheAqueduct—Bible tolerated in Portugal—Cintra—DonSebastian—John de Castro—Conversation with aPriest—Colhares—Mafra—Its Palace—TheSchoolmaster—The Portuguese—Their Ignorance ofScripture—Rural Priesthood—The Alemtejo

[1]

CHAPTER II.

Boatmen of the Tagus—Dangers of theStream—Aldea Gallega—TheHostelry—Robbers—Sabocha—Adventure of aMuleteer—Estalagem de Ladrões—DonGeronimo—Vendas Novas—Royal Residence—Swine ofthe Alemtejo—Monte Moro—Swayne Vonved—SingularGoatherd—Children of the Fields—Infidels andSadducees

[17]

CHAPTER III.

Shopkeeper at Evora—SpanishContrabandistas—Lion and Unicorn—TheFountain—Trust in the Almighty—Distribution ofTracts—Library at Evora—Manuscript—The Bibleas a Guide—The Infamous Mary—The Man ofPalmella—The Charm—The MonkishSystem—Sunday—Volney—AnAuto-da-Fé—Men from Spain—Reading of aTract—New Arrival—The Herb Rosemary

[33]

CHAPTER IV.

Vexatious Delays—Drunken Driver—The MurderedMule—The Lamentation—Adventure on theHeath—Fear of Darkness—Portuguese Fidalgo—TheEscort—Return to Lisbon

[48]

CHAPTER V.

The College—TheRector—Shibboleth—National Prejudices—YouthfulSports—Jews of Lisbon—Bad Faith—Crime andSuperstition

[59]

CHAPTER VI.

Cold of Portugal—Extortion prevented—Sensationof Loneliness—The Dog—The Convent—EnchantingLandscape—Moorish Fortresses—Prayer for the Sick

[71]

CHAPTER VII.

The Druid’s Stone—The YoungSpaniard—Ruffianly Soldiers—Evils ofWar—Estremoz—The Brawl—RuinedWatch-tower—Glimpse of Spain—Old Times and New

[82]

CHAPTER VIII.

Elvas—Extraordinary Longevity—The EnglishNation—PortugueseIngratitude—Illiberality—Fortifications—SpanishBeggar—Badajoz—The Custom-House

[94]

CHAPTERIX.

Badajoz—Antonio the Gypsy—Antonio’sProposal—The Proposal accepted—GypsyBreakfast—Departure from Badajoz—The GypsyDonkey—Merida—The Ruined Wall—TheCrone—The Land of the Moor—The Black Men—Lifein the Desert—The Supper

[105]

CHAPTER X.

The Gypsy’s Granddaughter—ProposedMarriage—The Alguazil—The Assault—SpeedyTrot—Arrival at Trujillo—Night and Rain—TheForest—The Bivouac—Mount andAway!—Jaraicejo—The National—The CavalierBalmerson—Among the Thickets—SeriousDiscourse—What is Truth?—Unexpected Intelligence

[122]

CHAPTER XI.

The Pass of Mirabete—Wolves andShepherds—Female Subtlety—Death by Wolves—TheMystery solved—The Mountains—The Dark Hour—TheTraveller of the Night—Abarbenel—HoardedTreasure—Force of Gold—The Archbishop—Arrivalat Madrid

[145]

CHAPTER XII.

Lodging at Madrid—My Hostess—BritishAmbassador—Mendizabal—Baltasar—Duties of aNational—Young Blood—The Execution—Populationof Madrid—The Higher Orders—The LowerClasses—The Bull-fighter—The Crabbed Gitano

[162]

CHAPTER XIII.

Intrigues at Court—Quesada andGaliano—Dissolution of the Cortes—TheSecretary—Aragonese Pertinacity—The Council ofTrent—The Asturian—The Three Thieves—BenedictMol—The Men of Lucerne—The Treasure

[179]

CHAPTERXIV.

State of Spain—Isturitz—Revolution of theGranja—The Disturbance—Signs ofMischief—Newspaper Reporters—Quesada’sOnslaught—The Closing Scene—Flight of theModerados—The Coffee Bowl

[194]

CHAPTER XV.

The Steamer—Cape Finisterre—TheStorm—Arrival at Cadiz—The NewTestament—Seville—Italica—TheAmphitheatre—The Prisoners—The Encounter—BaronTaylor—The Street and Desert

[208]

CHAPTER XVI.

Departure for Cordova—Carmona—GermanColonies—Language—The Sluggish Horse—NocturnalWelcome—Carlist Landlord—GoodAdvice—Gomez—The Old Genoese—The TwoOpinions

[223]

CHAPTER XVII.

Cordova—Moors of Barbary—The English—AnOld Priest—The Roman Breviary—The Dovecote—TheHoly Office—Judaism—Desecration ofDovecotes—The Innkeeper’s Proposal

[233]

CHAPTER XVIII.

Departure from Cordova—TheContrabandista—Jewish Cunning—Arrival at Madrid

[252]

CHAPTER XIX.

Arrival at Madrid—Maria Diaz—Printing of theTestament—My Project—Andalusian Steed—ServantWanted—An Application—Antonio Buchini—GeneralCordova—Principles of Honour

[256]

CHAPTERXX.

Illness—Nocturnal Visit—A MasterMind—The Whisper—Salamanca—IrishHospitality—Spanish Soldiers—The Scripturesadvertised

[270]

CHAPTER XXI.

Departure from Salamanca—Reception atPitiegua—The Dilemma—Sudden Inspiration—TheGood Presbyter—Combat of Quadrupeds—IrishChristians—Plains of Spain—The Catalans—TheFatal Pool—Valladolid—Circulation of theScriptures—Philippine Missions—EnglishCollege—A Conversation—The Gaoleress

[280]

CHAPTER XXII.

Dueñas—Children ofEgypt—Jockeyism—The Baggage Pony—TheFall—Palencia—Carlist Priests—TheLook-out—Priestly Sincerity—Leon—Antonioalarmed—Heat and Dust

[303]

CHAPTER XXIII.

Astorga—The Inn—The Maragatos—Habits ofthe Maragatos—The Statue

[319]

CHAPTER XXIV.

Departure from Astorga—The Venta—TheBy-path—Narrow Escape—The Cup of Water—Sun andShade—Bembibre—Convent of theRocks—Sunset—Cacabelos—MidnightAdventure—Villafranca

[326]

CHAPTER XXV.

Villafranca—The Pass—GalleganSimplicity—The Frontier Guard—TheHorse-shoe—Gallegan Peculiarities—A Word onLanguage—The Courier—Wretched Cabins—Host andGuests—Andalusians

[343]

CHAPTERXXVI.

Lugo—The Baths—A FamilyHistory—Miguelets—The Three Heads—AFarrier—English Squadron—Sale ofTestaments—Corunna—The Recognition—LuigiPiozzi—The Speculation—A Blank Prospect—JohnMoore

[358]

CHAPTER XXVII.

Compostella—Rey Romero—TheTreasure-seeker—Hopeful Project—The Church ofRefuge—Hidden Riches—The Canon—Spirit ofLocalism—The Leper—Bones of Saint James

[377]

CHAPTER XXVIII.

Skippers of Padron—Caldas de losReyes—Pontevedra—The Notary Public—InsaneBarber—An Introduction—GalleganLanguage—Afternoon Ride—Vigo—TheStranger—Jews of the Desert—Bay of Vigo—SuddenInterruption—The Governor

[392]

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

VOL. I.

page

Seville

Frontispiece

Interior of the Mosque,Cordova

To face [238]

INTRODUCTION.

PART I.

When George Borrow, in the month of November, 1835, steamed up the Tagus on his adventurous journey to distribute the Bible in Spain, the political situation throughout the Peninsula was so complicated and so extraordinary, that a brief review of the events of the few years immediately preceding his arrival will be necessary to enable any one but a specially instructed reader to appreciate, or even to understand, his position and his adventures.

When Ferdinand VII. was restored to his kingdom by the British arms in 1814, Spain was still governed by the Cortes elected under the Liberal Constitution of 1812.

Ferdinand, having sworn many oaths to maintain this Constitution and Parliamentary Institutions in the country, no sooner found himself firmly seated on the throne, than, encouraged by the clergy within his dominions, and by the Holy Alliance in Northern Europe, he issued an edict dissolving the Cortes, and reviving the old absolutism with all the old abuses in Spain.

The nobles were once again exempted from taxation; the monasteries were restored; the Jesuits returned to Spain; the Inquisition was formally re-established; all Liberal politicians were persecuted to the death. For six years this royalist reign of terror—more dreadful by far than the Terreur blanche in contemporary France—was continued, until at length, the great American colonies having asserted their independence, [2] the standard of revolt was raised in Spain by Riego and Quiroga, two officers in command of an expedition which was just about to sail from Cadiz to renew the war against the colonists in South America in January, 1820. The success of this political revolution was prompt and complete. In March the king gave way, and once more accepted the Constitution of 1812; and an administration of moderate reformers was formed under Martinez de la Rosa, a well-known man of letters, and was generally acceptable to the country.