Introduction by the Editors |
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CHAPTER I. |
Man overboard—The Tagus—ForeignLanguages—Gesticulation—Streets of Lisbon—TheAqueduct—Bible tolerated in Portugal—Cintra—DonSebastian—John de Castro—Conversation with aPriest—Colhares—Mafra—Its Palace—TheSchoolmaster—The Portuguese—Their Ignorance ofScripture—Rural Priesthood—The Alemtejo | [1] |
CHAPTER II. |
Boatmen of the Tagus—Dangers of theStream—Aldea Gallega—TheHostelry—Robbers—Sabocha—Adventure of aMuleteer—Estalagem de Ladrões—DonGeronimo—Vendas Novas—Royal Residence—Swine ofthe Alemtejo—Monte Moro—Swayne Vonved—SingularGoatherd—Children of the Fields—Infidels andSadducees | [17] |
CHAPTER III. |
Shopkeeper at Evora—SpanishContrabandistas—Lion and Unicorn—TheFountain—Trust in the Almighty—Distribution ofTracts—Library at Evora—Manuscript—The Bibleas a Guide—The Infamous Mary—The Man ofPalmella—The Charm—The MonkishSystem—Sunday—Volney—AnAuto-da-Fé—Men from Spain—Reading of aTract—New Arrival—The Herb Rosemary | [33] |
CHAPTER IV. |
Vexatious Delays—Drunken Driver—The MurderedMule—The Lamentation—Adventure on theHeath—Fear of Darkness—Portuguese Fidalgo—TheEscort—Return to Lisbon | [48] |
CHAPTER V. |
The College—TheRector—Shibboleth—National Prejudices—YouthfulSports—Jews of Lisbon—Bad Faith—Crime andSuperstition | [59] |
CHAPTER VI. |
Cold of Portugal—Extortion prevented—Sensationof Loneliness—The Dog—The Convent—EnchantingLandscape—Moorish Fortresses—Prayer for the Sick | [71] |
CHAPTER VII. |
The Druid’s Stone—The YoungSpaniard—Ruffianly Soldiers—Evils ofWar—Estremoz—The Brawl—RuinedWatch-tower—Glimpse of Spain—Old Times and New | [82] |
CHAPTER VIII. |
Elvas—Extraordinary Longevity—The EnglishNation—PortugueseIngratitude—Illiberality—Fortifications—SpanishBeggar—Badajoz—The Custom-House | [94] |
CHAPTERIX. |
Badajoz—Antonio the Gypsy—Antonio’sProposal—The Proposal accepted—GypsyBreakfast—Departure from Badajoz—The GypsyDonkey—Merida—The Ruined Wall—TheCrone—The Land of the Moor—The Black Men—Lifein the Desert—The Supper | [105] |
CHAPTER X. |
The Gypsy’s Granddaughter—ProposedMarriage—The Alguazil—The Assault—SpeedyTrot—Arrival at Trujillo—Night and Rain—TheForest—The Bivouac—Mount andAway!—Jaraicejo—The National—The CavalierBalmerson—Among the Thickets—SeriousDiscourse—What is Truth?—Unexpected Intelligence | [122] |
CHAPTER XI. |
The Pass of Mirabete—Wolves andShepherds—Female Subtlety—Death by Wolves—TheMystery solved—The Mountains—The Dark Hour—TheTraveller of the Night—Abarbenel—HoardedTreasure—Force of Gold—The Archbishop—Arrivalat Madrid | [145] |
CHAPTER XII. |
Lodging at Madrid—My Hostess—BritishAmbassador—Mendizabal—Baltasar—Duties of aNational—Young Blood—The Execution—Populationof Madrid—The Higher Orders—The LowerClasses—The Bull-fighter—The Crabbed Gitano | [162] |
CHAPTER XIII. |
Intrigues at Court—Quesada andGaliano—Dissolution of the Cortes—TheSecretary—Aragonese Pertinacity—The Council ofTrent—The Asturian—The Three Thieves—BenedictMol—The Men of Lucerne—The Treasure | [179] |
CHAPTERXIV. |
State of Spain—Isturitz—Revolution of theGranja—The Disturbance—Signs ofMischief—Newspaper Reporters—Quesada’sOnslaught—The Closing Scene—Flight of theModerados—The Coffee Bowl | [194] |
CHAPTER XV. |
The Steamer—Cape Finisterre—TheStorm—Arrival at Cadiz—The NewTestament—Seville—Italica—TheAmphitheatre—The Prisoners—The Encounter—BaronTaylor—The Street and Desert | [208] |
CHAPTER XVI. |
Departure for Cordova—Carmona—GermanColonies—Language—The Sluggish Horse—NocturnalWelcome—Carlist Landlord—GoodAdvice—Gomez—The Old Genoese—The TwoOpinions | [223] |
CHAPTER XVII. |
Cordova—Moors of Barbary—The English—AnOld Priest—The Roman Breviary—The Dovecote—TheHoly Office—Judaism—Desecration ofDovecotes—The Innkeeper’s Proposal | [233] |
CHAPTER XVIII. |
Departure from Cordova—TheContrabandista—Jewish Cunning—Arrival at Madrid | [252] |
CHAPTER XIX. |
Arrival at Madrid—Maria Diaz—Printing of theTestament—My Project—Andalusian Steed—ServantWanted—An Application—Antonio Buchini—GeneralCordova—Principles of Honour | [256] |
CHAPTERXX. |
Illness—Nocturnal Visit—A MasterMind—The Whisper—Salamanca—IrishHospitality—Spanish Soldiers—The Scripturesadvertised | [270] |
CHAPTER XXI. |
Departure from Salamanca—Reception atPitiegua—The Dilemma—Sudden Inspiration—TheGood Presbyter—Combat of Quadrupeds—IrishChristians—Plains of Spain—The Catalans—TheFatal Pool—Valladolid—Circulation of theScriptures—Philippine Missions—EnglishCollege—A Conversation—The Gaoleress | [280] |
CHAPTER XXII. |
Dueñas—Children ofEgypt—Jockeyism—The Baggage Pony—TheFall—Palencia—Carlist Priests—TheLook-out—Priestly Sincerity—Leon—Antonioalarmed—Heat and Dust | [303] |
CHAPTER XXIII. |
Astorga—The Inn—The Maragatos—Habits ofthe Maragatos—The Statue | [319] |
CHAPTER XXIV. |
Departure from Astorga—The Venta—TheBy-path—Narrow Escape—The Cup of Water—Sun andShade—Bembibre—Convent of theRocks—Sunset—Cacabelos—MidnightAdventure—Villafranca | [326] |
CHAPTER XXV. |
Villafranca—The Pass—GalleganSimplicity—The Frontier Guard—TheHorse-shoe—Gallegan Peculiarities—A Word onLanguage—The Courier—Wretched Cabins—Host andGuests—Andalusians | [343] |
CHAPTERXXVI. |
Lugo—The Baths—A FamilyHistory—Miguelets—The Three Heads—AFarrier—English Squadron—Sale ofTestaments—Corunna—The Recognition—LuigiPiozzi—The Speculation—A Blank Prospect—JohnMoore | [358] |
CHAPTER XXVII. |
Compostella—Rey Romero—TheTreasure-seeker—Hopeful Project—The Church ofRefuge—Hidden Riches—The Canon—Spirit ofLocalism—The Leper—Bones of Saint James | [377] |
CHAPTER XXVIII. |
Skippers of Padron—Caldas de losReyes—Pontevedra—The Notary Public—InsaneBarber—An Introduction—GalleganLanguage—Afternoon Ride—Vigo—TheStranger—Jews of the Desert—Bay of Vigo—SuddenInterruption—The Governor | [392] |