CONTENTS OF VOL. II.

page

CHAPTER XXIX.

Arrival at Padron—Projected Enterprise—TheAlquilador—Breach of Promise—An Odd Companion—APlain Story—Rugged Paths—The Desertion—ThePony—A Dialogue—Unpleasant Situation—TheEstadea—Benighted—The Hut—The Traveller’sPillow

[1]

CHAPTER XXX.

Autumnal Morning—The World’sEnd—Corcuvion—Duyo—The Cape—AWhale—The Outer Bay—The Arrest—TheFisher-Magistrate—Calros Rey—Hard ofBelief—Where is your Passport?—The Beach—AMighty Liberal—The Handmaid—The GrandBaintham—Eccentric Book—Hospitality

[20]

CHAPTER XXXI.

Corunna—Crossing the Bay—Ferrol—TheDock-yard—Where are we now?—GreekAmbassador—Lantern-Light—TheRavine—Viveiro—Evening—Marsh andQuagmire—Fair Words and Fair Money—The LeathernGirth—Eyes of Lynx—The Knavish Guide

[41]

CHAPTER XXXII.

Martin of Rivadeo—The FactiousMare—Asturians—Luarca—The SevenBellotas—Hermits—The Asturian’sTale—Strange Guests—The BigServant—Batuschca

[57]

CHAPTERXXXIII.

Oviedo—The Ten Gentlemen—The Swissagain—Modest Request—The Robbers—EpiscopalBenevolence—The Cathedral—Portrait of Feijoo

[70]

CHAPTER XXXIV.

Departure from Oviedo—Villa Viciosa—The YoungMan of the Inn—Antonio’s Tale—The General andhis Family—Woful Tidings—To-morrow we die—SanVicente—Santander—An Harangue—Flinter theIrishman

[82]

CHAPTER XXXV.

Departure from Santander—The Night Alarm—TheBlack Pass

[95]

CHAPTER XXXVI.

State of Affairs at Madrid—The NewMinistry—Pope of Rome—The Bookseller ofToledo—Sword-blades—Houses of Toledo—TheForlorn Gypsy—Proceedings at Madrid—AnotherServant

[99]

CHAPTER XXXVII.

Euscarra—Basque not Irish—Sanscrit and TartarDialects—A Vowel Language—Popular Poetry—TheBasques—Their Persons—Basque Women

[111]

CHAPTERXXXVIII.

The Prohibition—Gospel Persecuted—Charge ofSorcery—Ofalia

[121]

CHAPTERXXXIX.

The Two Gospels—The Alguazil—TheWarrant—The Good Maria—The Arrest—Sent toPrison—Reflections—The Reception—The PrisonRoom—Redress demanded

[127]

CHAPTER XL.

Ofalia—The Juez—Carcel de laCorte—Sunday in Prison—Robber Dress—Father andSon—Characteristic Behaviour—TheFrenchman—Prison Allowance—Valley of theShadow—Pure Castilian—Balseiro—TheCave—Robber Glory

[141]

CHAPTER XLI.

Maria Diaz—PriestlyVituperation—Antonio’s Visit—Antonio atService—A Scene—Benedict Mol—Wandering inSpain—The Four Evangelien

[159]

CHAPTER XLII.

Liberation from Prison—The Apology—HumanNature—The Greek’s Return—Church ofRome—Light of Scripture—Archbishop of Toledo—AnInterview—Stones of Price—A Resolution—TheForeign Language—Benedict’s Farewell—TreasureHunt at Compostella—Truth and Fiction

[169]

CHAPTER XLIII.

Villa Seca—Moorish House—The Puchera—TheRustic Council—Polite Ceremonial—The Flower ofSpain—The Bridge of Azeca—The RuinedCastle—Taking the Field—Demand for the Word—TheOld Peasant—The Curate and Blacksmith—Cheapness ofthe Scriptures

[185]

CHAPTERXLIV.

Aranjuez—A Warning—A Night Adventure—AFresh Expedition—Segovia—Abades—FactiousCuras—Lopez in Prison—Rescue of Lopez

[202]

CHAPTER XLV.

Return to Spain—Seville—A HoaryPersecutor—Manchegan Prophetess—Antonio’sDream

[214]

CHAPTER XLVI.

Work of Distribution resumed—Adventure atCobeña—Power of the Clergy—RuralAuthorities—Fuente la Higuera—Victoriano’sMishap—Village Prison—The Rope—Antonio’sErrand—Antonio at Mass

[220]

CHAPTER XLVII.

Termination of our Rural Labours—Alarm of theClergy—A New Experiment—Success atMadrid—Goblin-Alguazil—Staff of Office—TheCorregidor—An Explanation—The Pope inEngland—New Testament expounded—Works of Luther

[232]

CHAPTER XLVIII.

Projected Journey—A Scene of Blood—TheFriar—Seville—Beauties of Seville—Orange Treesand Flowers—Murillo—The GuardianAngel—Dionysius—My Coadjutors—Demand for theBible

[245]

CHAPTER XLIX.

The Solitary House—The Dehesa—JohannesChrysostom—Manuel—Bookselling atSeville—Dionysius and the Priests—Athens andRome—Proselytism—Seizure ofTestaments—Departure from Seville

[258]

CHAPTERL.

Night on the Guadalquivir—GospelLight—Bonanza—Strand of San Lucar—AndalusianScenery—History of a Chest—Cosas de losIngleses—The Two Gypsies—The Driver—The RedNightcap—The Steam-Boat—Christian Language

[271]

CHAPTER LI.

Cadiz—The Fortifications—TheConsul-General—Characteristic Anecdote—CatalanSteamer—Trafalgar—Alonzo Guzman—GibilMuza—Orestes Frigate—The Hostile Lion—Works ofthe Creator—Lizard of the Rock—TheConcourse—Queen of the Waters—Broken Prayer

[286]

CHAPTER LII.

The Jolly Hosteler—Aspirants for Glory—APortrait—Hamáles—Solomons—AnExpedition—The Yeoman Soldier—TheExcavations—The Pull by the Skirt—Judah and hisFather—Judah’s Pilgrimage—The BushyBeard—The False Moors—Judah and the King’sSon—Premature Old Age

[305]

CHAPTER LIII.

Genoese Mariners—Saint Michael’sCave—Midnight Abysses—Young American—A SlaveProprietor—The Fairy Man—Infidelity

[326]

CHAPTER LIV.

Again on Board—The Strange Visage—TheHaji—Setting Sail—The Two Jews—AmericanVessel—Tangier—Adun Oulem—TheStruggle—The Forbidden Thing

[335]

CHAPTERLV.

The Mole—The Two Moors—Djmah ofTangier—House of God—British Consul—CuriousSpectacle—The Moorish House—Joanna Correa—AveMaria

[348]

CHAPTER LVI.

The Mahasni—Sin Samani—TheBazaar—Moorish Saints—See the Ayana!—ThePrickly Fig—Jewish Graves—The Place ofCarcases—The Stable Boy—Horses of theMoslem—Dar-dwag

[359]

CHAPTER LVII.

Strange Trio—The Mulatto—ThePeace-offering—Moors of Granada—Vive laGuadeloupe—The Moors—Pascual Fava—BlindAlgerine—The Retreat

[373]

Glossary

[385]

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

VOL. II.

Toledo. Etched byManesse

Frontispiece

Segovia. From a Sketchby A. H. Hallam Murray

Engraved by Manesse

To face [210]

CHAPTER XXIX.

Arrival at Padron—Projected Enterprise—The Alquilador—Breach of Promise—An Odd Companion—A Plain Story—Rugged Paths—The Desertion—The Pony—A Dialogue—Unpleasant Situation—The Estadea—Benighted—The Hut—The Traveller’s Pillow.

I arrived at Padron late in the evening, on my return from Pontevedra and Vigo. It was my intention at this place to send my servant and horses forward to Santiago, and to hire a guide to Cape Finisterre. It would be difficult to assign any plausible reason for the ardent desire which I entertained to visit this place; but I remembered that last year I had escaped almost by a miracle from shipwreck and death on the rocky sides of this extreme point of the Old World, and I thought that to convey the Gospel to a place so wild and remote might perhaps be considered an acceptable pilgrimage in the eyes of my Maker. True it is that but one copy remained of those which I had brought with me on this last journey; but this reflection, far from discouraging me in my projected enterprise, produced the contrary effect, as I called to mind that, ever since the Lord revealed Himself to man, it has seemed good to Him to accomplish the greatest ends by apparently the most insufficient means; and I reflected that this one copy might serve as an instrument for more good than the four thousand nine hundred and ninety-nine copies of the edition of Madrid.

I was aware that my own horses were quite incompetent to reach Finisterre, as the roads or paths lie through stony ravines, and over rough and shaggy hills, and therefore determined to leave them behind with Antonio, whom I was unwilling to expose to the fatigues of such a journey. I lost no time in sending for an alquilador, or person who lets out horses, and informing him of my intention. He said he had an excellent mountain pony at my disposal, and that he himself would accompany me; but at the same time observed, that it was a terrible journey for man and horse, and that he expected to be paid accordingly. I consented to give him what he demanded, but on the express condition that he would perform his promise of attending me himself, as I was unwilling to trust myself four or five days amongst the hills with any low fellow of the town whom he might select, and who it was very possible might play me some evil turn. He replied by the term invariably used by the Spaniards when they see doubt or distrust exhibited: “No tenga usted cuidado, [2] I will go myself.” Having thus arranged the matter perfectly satisfactorily, as I thought, I partook of a slight supper, and shortly afterwards retired to repose.

I had requested the alquilador to call me the next morning at three o’clock; he, however, did not make his appearance till five, having, I suppose, overslept himself, which was indeed my own case. I arose in a hurry, dressed, put a few things in a bag, not forgetting the Testament, which I had resolved to present to the inhabitants of Finisterre. I then sallied forth and saw my friend the alquilador, who was holding by the bridle the pony or jaca which was destined to carry me in my expedition. It was a beautiful little animal, apparently strong and full of life, without one single white hair in its whole body, which was black as the plumage of the crow.

Behind it stood a strange-looking figure of the biped species, to whom, however, at the moment, I paid little attention, but of whom I shall have plenty to say in the sequel.