CONTENTS.
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| [CHAPTER I.] | |
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| FROM THE STRAITS TO SANTA CRUZ. | |
| PAGE | |
| Journey Planned.—Preparations.—Passage from Stanley.—TheStraits.—First Footsteps in Patagonia.—The Narrows.—PuntaArenas.—Commandante Viel.—The Colony.—The Town.—Chilotes andConvicts.—Resources.—Visit to the Coal Bed.—Lieut. Gallegos.—TheStart.—Rio Chaunco.—The Patagonian Pampas.—Our Party.—Cabecera delMar.—Oazy Harbour.—A useless Chase.—A Fireless Night.—VolcanicHills.—Pampa Yarns.—Rio Gallegos.—First Indians.—Sam Slick.—RioCuheyli.—Meeting with Tehuelches.—Caravan of Women.—‘Anglish’Politeness.—Desert.—Santa Cruz at last | [1] |
| [CHAPTER II.] | |
| SANTA CRUZ. | |
| Introduction to Chiefs.—Orkeke.—Chilian Deserters.—The Settlement.—Islandof Pabon.—Natural Advantages.—The Mission Station.—Mr. Clarke.—OurCircle at Pabon.—Expedition to Lake Viedma.—Winter Occupations.—Workand Play.—Casimiro’s Adventures.—His Character.—A WinterHunting Excursion.—A Pampa Snow-storm.—The Santa Cruz Valley.—Upthe River.—The Northern Hills.—Pumas.—Devil’s Eyes.—Hunting onFoot.—Intense Cold.—Return of the Deserters.—Visit to the Indian Camp.—FirstNight in a Toldo.—Towing a Horse.—Adieu to Santa Cruz | [33] |
| [CHAPTER III.] | |
| THE RIO CHICO. | |
| Breaking up of the Camp.—An Idle Day.—A Rash Start.—A Dilemma.—Aloneon the Pampa.—Reunion.—The Kau or Toldo.—The DomesticInterior.—The Indian Tribes.—Three Races.—Order of the March.—TheHunt.—Indian Game Law.—Tehuelche Cookery.—Basaltic Hills.—AnIndian Festival.—My First Tehuelche Ball.—Mrs. Orkeke’s Spill.—FordingRio Chico.—A Battle.—Death of Cuastro.—Dangerous Times.—ChilianConspiracy.—Obsidian Plain and Pass.—First Ostrich Eggs.—Amakaken.—Liftingthe Boulder.—The Devil’s Country.—God’s Hill.—Condors andDinner.—Sunrise on the Cordillera.—The Plague Herald.—Gelgel Aik.—Escapefrom Matrimony.—Téle.—Eyes of the Desert.—Preparations forWar.—Another Fight.—Water Tigers.—Indian Bravoes.—Iron Ores.—ShipRock.—Perch Fishing.—Appley-kaik.—Casimiro’s Escape.—Arrival atHenno | [62] |
| [CHAPTER IV.] | |
| HENNOKAIK TO TECKEL. | |
| Ceremonial of Welcome.—Hinchel’s Indians.—Tehuelches and Araucanos.—Jackechanand the Chupat Tribe.—My Examination.—Encampment atHenno.—Peaceful Occupations.—The Oldest Inhabitant.—Chiriq.—TheHidden Cities.—Modern Legends.—Mysteries of the Cordillera.—LosCesares.—La Ciudad Encantada.—Its Whereabouts.—The Indian Cesares.—TheGuanaco.—The Patagonian Ostrich.—Neighbourhood of Chiriq.—Horseracing.—IndianHorses.—Indian Dogs.—Dog and Lover.—PlaitingSinews.—Windy Hill.—Surrounded by Fire.—Young Guanaco.—Arrivalof Grog.—News from Santa Cruz.—Gisk.—Romantic Scenery.—A PleasantNeighbourhood.—Fairy Glen.—Breaking a Horse.—Female Curiosity.—TheWild Cattle Country.—The Forests of the Cordillera.—The Watershed.—Amongthe Mountains.—Wild Flowers.—A Bull Fight.—The Bull Victorious.—NoChristmas Beef.—Teckel.—Change of Quarters | [108] |
| [CHAPTER V.] | |
| MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE TEHUELCHES. | |
| Patagonian Giants.—A Long Walk.—Strength and Good Humour.—Heads ofHair.—Tehuelche Coquettes.—Dress of Men and Women.—Ornaments andCosmetics.—Toilette and Bath.—Arms and Implements.—Ancient Bolasand Arrows.—Saddles and Bridles.—Silversmiths.—Manufacture ofMantles.—Women’s Work.—Diet and Cookery.—Smoking.—Card Playing.—Gameof Ball.—Ceremonies at Birth.—Childhood.—Marriage.—FuneralRites.—Religion.—Demons and Doctors.—Witchcraft and Omens.—MedicalSkill.—Population and Politics.—Etiquette.—Tehuelche Character.—NaturalAffection.—Advice to Travellers | [157] |
| [CHAPTER VI.] | |
| TECKEL TO GEYLUM. | |
| Casimiro’s Household.—Carge-kaik.—Quintuhual’s Son.—Woolkein.—Partridges.—Meetingwith the Araucanians.—The Cacique Quintuhual.—Esgel-kaik.—AraucanianBelles.—Communication with Chupat Colony.—Diplaik.—Calficura’sDeclaration of War.—Tehuelches learn Fishing.—My IndianRelatives.—Woodland Rambles.—An Indian Paradise.—The Upper Chupat.—Cushamon.—LosingHorses.—Official Functions.—Message from LasManzanas.—Blessing the Liquor.—Casimiro Intoxicated.—Foyel’s Encampment.—GreatParlemento.—Foyel’s Ideas.—Gatchen-kaik.—Arrival atGeylum | [189] |
| [CHAPTER VII.] | |
| LAS MANZANAS. | |
| Catching a Thief.—Miss Foyel.—Start for Las Manzanas.—First View of theApple Groves.—Omens of War.—Inacayal’s Tolderia.—Crossing the RioLimay.—Mr. Cox’s Shipwreck.—Lenketrou’s Raid.—A Night of Alarm.—Braveryof my Cousins.—The Great Cheoeque.—A Mounted Parlemento.—Applesand Piñones.—Graviel’s Madness.—Las Manzanas.—Cheoeque’sPalace.—The Revels.—Feuds between the Chiefs.—The Picunches and thePasses to Valdivia.—Trading and Politics.—Resolutions of Peace.—AGrand Banquet.—Power of Cheoeque.—Araucanian Customs.—FarewellPresents.—Invitation to Return.—Orkeke’s Generosity.—Return to Geylum.—Outbreakof an Epidemic.—My Pretty Page.—Departure from Geylum | [218] |
| [CHAPTER VIII.] | |
| GEYLUM TO PATAGONES. | |
| A Sick Camp.—Oerroè Volcanic Hill.—Crimè’s Deathbed.—Graviel’s Promotion.—TheBurning Ground.—Hot Springs.—Fighting the Gualichu.—AReal Fight.—A Soda Lake.—Encampment at Telck.—The Doctor comes toGrief.—An Obliging Ostrich.—Appointed Chasqui.—Miseries of PampaLife.—A Bad Time.—The Plains of Margensho.—Casimiro’s Distrust.—Doctorand Sick Child.—Duties of a Messenger.—Departure of the Chasquis.—TravellingExpress.—The Paved Pampas.—An Ideal Bandit.—Letterfrom the Chupat Colony.—Trinita.—Teneforo’s Pampas.—Champayo’sGenerosity.—A Morning Drink.—Departure from Trinita.—Valchita.—ThePig’s-Road.—Wild Horses.—The Travesia.—Limit of the Patagonian Faunaand Flora.—First View of the Rio Negro.—Sauce Blanco.—The Guardia.—SanXaviel.—Approach to Patagones.—Señor Murga.—Welsh Hospitality.—AmongFriends at Last | [247] |
| [CHAPTER IX.] | |
| THE RIO NEGRO SETTLEMENTS. | |
| Patagones, or Carmen Old Town.—The Fort and Buildings.—The SouthernTown.—The English Mission.—Elements of the Population.—The Negroes.—TheConvicts.—Lawless State of Society.—The Cemetery.—Early Historyof the Colony.—A Successful Stratagem.—Villarino’s Ascent of theRiver.—Expedition of Rosas.—The Island of Choelechel.—La GuardiaChica.—Estancia of Messrs. Kincaid.—Ancient Indian Graves.—FlintWeapons.—The Shepherd and Pumas.—Estancia San André.—The Indiansand the Colonists.—Calficura’s Raid.—Indian Method of Attack.—The TameIndians.—View of the Valley.—Trade of Patagones.—Fertility of the Soil.—RioNegro Wine.—The Sportsman.—Advice to Emigrants.—Interviewwith Col. Murga.—The Government Grants to Chiefs.—Casimiro again.—TheTehuelches in Town.—Farewell.—The Welsh Utopia.—Social Life atPatagones.—The Steamer at Last.—Aground.—The Pilot.—Pat Sweeny.—Adieuto Patagonia | [288] |
| [APPENDIX.] | |
| [A.]—A partial Vocabulary of the Tsoneca Language as spoken by theNorthern Tehuelches | [319] |
| [B.]—Testimony of successive Voyagers to the Stature of the Patagonians | [323] |