Brick and Marble in the Middle Ages: Notes of Tours in the North of Italy

by George Edmund Street

CONTENTS.

[CHAPTER I]
PAGE
Routes to Italy—Paris—Strasburg—Rouffach—Basel	[1]
[CHAPTER II]
Churches of Basel—Storks—Rheinfelden—Frick—Baden—Zürich:the Cathedral—Fondness of the Swiss for bright colours—Lakeof Zürich—Rapperswyl—Linth Canal—A WaysideInn—Wesen	[14]
[CHAPTER III]
Wallenstadt—Sargans—Gorge of the Tamina—Ragatz—Chur—Ems—Reichenau—Thusis—Zillis—Andeer—Splügen—TheSplügen Pass—The Custom-house—Cascade of the Medessimo—CampoDolcino	[28]
[CHAPTER IV]
Chiavenna—Lake of Riva—Colico—Gravidona—Lake of Como—Varenna—StelvioPass—Lecco—Bergamo: Broletto—Churches—Castleof Malpaga	[44]
[CHAPTER V]
Palazzuolo—Coccaglio—Brescia: new and old Cathedrals—Broletto—Churches—Donato—Desenzano—Lagodi Garda—Riva—Trent—Verona	[63]
[CHAPTER VI]
Verona: Campanile of the Palazzo dei Signori—Sta. Anastasia—Monuments—Piazzadell’ Erbe—The Duomo—The Baptistery—Sta.Maria l’Antica—Cemetery and Palace of the Scaligers—DomesticArchitecture—Piazza di Brà—The Austrians—Pontedi Castel-Vecchio—San Zenone—San Fermo Maggiore—Chapelnear the Duomo—Romeo and Juliet—Dwarfs—Wells	[84]
[CHAPTER VII]
Neighbourhood of Verona—Vicenza: Cathedral—San Lorenzo—SantaCorona—Palazzo della Ragione—Gothic Palaces—Palladio’sWorks—Teatro Olympico—Padua: Giotto’s Chapel—TheEremitani—Sant’Antonio—The Duomo	[126]
[CHAPTER VIII]
Padua and Venice Railway—Venice: Piazza and Church of S.Mark—Torcello—The Lagoon—Murano—Sta. Maria dei Frari—SS.Giovanni e Paolo—Sta. Maria dell’ Orto—Other Churches—DomesticArchitecture—Fondaco de’ Turchi—Other ByzantinePalaces—The Ducal Palace—Foscari Palace—Ca’ d’Oro—OtherGothic Palaces—Balconies—Venetian Architecture—AFestival—Paintings	[149]
[CHAPTER IX]
New Roads to Venice—The Pusterthal—Innichen—DolomiteMountains—Heiligenblut—Kötschach—Kirchbach—Gail Thal—Hermagor—OberTarvis—Predil Pass—Gorizia—Aquileja—Grado—Udine—Pordenone	[238]
[CHAPTER X]
Venice to Verona—Verona to Mantua—Villa Franca—Mantua:its Churches and Palaces—The Theatre—Montenara—Campitello—Casalmaggiore—Longadore—Cremona:the Cathedral—Churchesand Public Buildings—Lodi—Pavia: its Churches—Castleof the Visconti—The Certosa—Drive to Milan	[253]
[CHAPTER XI]
Drive from Padua to Ferrara—Monselice—Rovigo—Ferrara:Cathedral—Castle—Gallery—Road to Bologna—Altedo—Bologna:Cathedral—San Petronio—San Domenico—San Giacomo—Sta.Maria Maggiore—San Francesco—San Stefano—LeaningTowers—Casa dei Mercanti—Domestic Remains—Academy—Modena:Cathedral—Parma: Cathedral—Correggio—The Baptistery—Piacenza:The Palazzo Publico—Cathedral—San Francesco—Sant’Antonino—San Giovanni in Canale—Asti: Cathedral—SanSecondo—Campanili	[286]
[CHAPTER XII]
Milan: the Cathedral—Sant’Ambrogio—Sant’Eustorgio—Sta. Mariadelle Grazie—Certosa of Chiaravalle—Novara—Vercelli—Monza:the Cathedral—The Broletto—Sta. Maria in Strada—Como:the Broletto—The Cathedral	[315]
[CHAPTER XIII]
Departure from Como—Varese—Lake of Varese—Italian Boatmen—Intra—Laveno—LagoMaggiore—Magadino—Road to Hospenthal—TheDazio Grande—Airolo—Hospenthal—Ascent ofthe Furca—Valley of the Reuss—Lake of Luzern—Luzern—TheUnter Hauenstein—Strasburg	[344]
[CHAPTER XIV]
Concluding Summary—Classic and Gothic Architecture—ItalianGothic—Shafts—Cornices—Monuments—Cloisters—Windows—Brickwork—Colourin Construction—Truth in ArchitecturalDesign and Construction	[361]
[APPENDIX.]
Catalogue of the Subjects of the Sculptured Capitals in the LowerStage of the Doge’s Palace, Venice	[409]

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

(THE FULL-PAGE ENGRAVINGS ARE NUMBERED IN ORDER.)

PAGE
[1.]	Frontispiece. N. Porch, Sta. Maria Maggiore, Bergamo.
	Shop-window, Rheinfelden	[16]
[2.]	Cloister of Zürich Cathedral	to face [19]*
	Church on the Lake of Zürich	[22]
	Wooden spire, Ragatz	[32]
[3.]	Interior of Cathedral, Chur	to face [33]*
	Gravidona, ground-plan of Baptistery	[48]
[4.]	Gravidona, the Baptistery	to face [48]
[5.]	The Broletto, Bergamo	" [54]
	Campanile, Bergamo	[59]
[6.]	Malpaga Castle	to face [62]
	Window, Coccaglio	[64]
[7.]	House at Coccaglio	to face [65]
	Detail of windows and corbelling for chimneys, Coccaglio	[65]
	Wooden balcony, Coccaglio	[66]
[8.]	Broletto, Brescia	to face [69]
	Cloister, Broletto, Brescia	[69]
	Detail of circular window, Broletto, Brescia	[70]
	Doorway, Broletto, Brescia	[71]
	Brick cornice, Broletto, Brescia	[71]
	San Francesco, Brescia	[72]
[9.]	Details of brickwork in Broletto	to face [72]
	Cloister of the Carmine, Brescia	[74]
[10.]	Duomo, Trent, Eastern doorway	to face [81]
[11.]	Campanile of Scaliger Palace, Verona	to face [84]
	Plan of Sta. Anastasia, Verona	[87]*
[12.]	Pavements, Sta. Anastasia, Verona	to face [89]
	Sta. Anastasia, Verona, aisle window	[90]
	Door-frame, Sta. Anastasia	[92]
	Door-frame, San Pietro Martire	[94]
	Crest of metal railing, Verona	[102]
	Metal railing, Verona	[103]
[13.]	Courtyard of the Scaliger Palace, Verona	to face [104]
	Doorway, old house, Verona	[105]
	Windows, old house, Verona	[106]
	Brick battlement, Viccolo Cavaletto, Verona	[106]
[14.]	Courtyard of old house, Verona	to face [106]
[15.]	Cloister of San Zenone, Verona	to face [111]
[16.]	Interior of San Zenone	" [112]
[17.]	San Fermo Maggiore, Verona, west front	to face [121]
[18.]	Italian brickwork	" [122]
	Domestic window, Verona	[123]
[19.]	Porta di Castello, Vicenza	to face [128]
[20.]	Houses in the Contrada Porto, Vicenza	to face [131]
	Arena Chapel, Padua, west end	[137]
	Arena Chapel, side window	[139]
	Sant’Antonio, Padua, ground-plan	[145]*
[21.]	Sant’Antonio, view from the east	to face [147]
	S. Mark’s, Venice, ground-plan	[156]*
[22.]	Duomo, Torcello, ambon and screen	to face [168]
	Sta. Fosca, Torcello, east end	[171]
[23.]	Interior of Sta. Maria dei Frari, Venice	to face [177]
[24.]	Exterior of Sta. Maria dei Frari, Venice	to face [180]
	Window, San Stefano, Venice	[186]
[25.]	Campanile, San Giacomo del Rialto	to face [187]
[26.]	Byzantine well, Venice	" [193]
[27.]	Corte del Remer	" [193]
[28.]	View of Venice, from the Romance of Alexander, Bodleian Library	to face [204]
[29.]	Archway, Ponte del Paradiso	to face [210]
[30.]	Doorway on the Ponte San Tomà	to face [212]
	Brick battlement, Venice	[214]
[31.]	Angle window	to face [216]
	Balcony, Venice	[217]
	Capital of window-shaft, Venice	[220]
[32.]	Palazzo Segredo	to face [221]
[33.]	Window, Ponte del Fornaro	" [222]
[34.]	Staircase, Casa Goldoni	" [223]
	Venetian chimneys	[224]
	Aquileja, Patriarch’s throne	[243]
[35.]	Aquileja, interior of Duomo	to face [244]
[36.]	Udine, Palazzo Publico	" [248]
[37.]	Udine, steps to Palazzo Publico	to face [249]
	Udine Cathedral, aisle windows	[250]
[38.]	Udine, tower and cathedral doorways	to face [250]
[39.]	Ducal Palace, Mantua	" [255]
[40.]	Windows in ditto	" [256]
[41.]	Castello di Corte, Mantua	" [257]
	Brick window, Sant’Andrea	[258]
[42.]	Gateway, Palazzo della Ragione	to face [258]
[43.]	Campanile of Sant’Andrea	to face [259]
	Brick window, Sant’Andrea	[259]
	Brick window, Campitello	[262]
	Brick window, near Casalmaggiore	[262]
[44.]	North transept, Duomo, Cremona	to face [266]
	Brick window, Duomo, Cremona	[267]
	Rose window, ditto	[268]
[45.]	Palace of the Jurisconsults, Cremona	to face [269]
	Window-jamb, ditto	[269]
	Chimney and battlement, ditto	[270]
[46.]	San Michele, Pavia, interior	to face [276]
[47.]	Castle of the Visconti, Pavia	" [277]
[48.]	Bay of courtyard of ditto	" [278]
[49.]	San Pantaleone, Pavia	" [279]
[50.]	West end of San Francesco, Pavia	to face [281]
[51.]	Certosa of Pavia	" [284]*
[52.]	Ferrara, the Duomo	to face [288]
[53.]	San Petronio, Bologna, south aisle	to face [291]
	San Petronio, Bologna, plan	[292]*
	San Petronio, Bologna, section	[293]*
[54.]	San Petronio, Bologna, interior	to face [294]
[55.]	Monument near San Domenico, Bologna	to face [296]
	Cloister, San Stefano, Bologna	[298]
	Brick window, Palazzo Publico, Bologna	[301]
[56.]	South front of Duomo, Modena	to face [304]
	Baptistery, Parma, plan	[307]*
	Baptistery, Parma, section	[307]*
[57.]	Piacenza, view of Palazzo Publico	to face [308]
	Brickwork, Palazzo Publico, Piacenza	[310]
	Sant’Antonino, Piacenza, plan	[312]*
	Sant’Antonino, Piacenza, section	[313]*
	Duomo, Milan, ground-plan	[317]*
[58.]	Sant’Ambrogio, Milan, baldachin	to face [326]
[59.]	Piazza dei Mercanti, Milan	" [329]
[60.]	Certosa of Chiaravalle	" [330]
[61.]	Sant’Andrea, Vercelli, interior	to face [332]
	Window in Duomo, Monza	[335]
[62.]	The Broletto, Monza	to face [337]
	Window in Broletto	[337]
[63.]	The Broletto, Como	to face [340]
[64.]	Sta. Maria, Como	" [342]
	Cornice, San Francesco, Brescia	[379]
	String-course, Palace of Jurisconsults, Cremona	[391]
	Window in north transept, Cremona	[392]
	Detail of window-jamb, Cremona	[393]
	Brick archivolt, Vescovato, Mantua	[394]
	Arch-mould, Cremona	[394]
	Window, Verona	[396]
	Brick window, Sant’Andrea, Mantua	[397]
[65.]	Key-plan of Capitals in Doge’s Palace, Venice	to face [409]
⁂ The engravings marked * are taken from Mr. Fergusson’s ‘Historyof Architecture.’

BRICK AND MARBLE
IN THE
M I D D L E A G E S.

CHAPTER I.

“Yet waft me from the harbour-mouth,
Wild wind! I seek a warmer sky,
And I will see before I die
The palms and temples of the South.”
Tennyson.

Routes to Italy—Paris—Strasburg—Rouffach—Basel.