With Axe and Rope in the New Zealand Alps

by George Edward Mannering

Time was precious, and on leaving the steps we ran down most of the less crevassed slopes, and soon found ourselves at the foot of the conquered mountain. Away we plodded down the glacier again—a hard, monotonous grind—till we arrived in the failing light at the system of crevasses on the outside of the turn of the glacier, close to our camp of the previous night.

This time we kept further out from the edge; but it was six of one and half a dozen of the other, for soon we were completely entrapped in a perfect maze of transverse and longitudinal crevasses, over which the only mode of progression was continued jumping.

This work in the dusk was anything but pleasant, yet had to be accomplished, and thanks to the aid of the rope, after leaping hundreds of them, we at length found our way off the side of the glacier to our tent.

How we watched the slowly warming ‘billy’ with eager eyes, and drank in fancy over and over again the pannikin of hot Liebig. How we shut the wind out and nursed the stinking kerosene stove! Alas for our hopes and our hungry stomachs, the lamp went wrong somehow, and the oil flowing over, the tent was on the verge of catching fire when Annan gave the whole concern a kick which sent flaming lamp, ‘billy’ and all outside. I hope the strong language and expressions of disgust have long since been forgiven us; but I really think they were justified.

Twelve hours’ hard going did the Dome require. Von Lendenfeld took twenty-seven from the point of Malte Brun just opposite this camp.

Three hours’ walking the next morning saw us back at our head-quarters, the Ball Glacier camp, where we found Dixon in active preparation for an assault on Aorangi, though not so strong as we could have wished.

Now a great council of war was held, the main point of discussion being as to whether we should attempt our long deferred ascent of Aorangi, which was, as usual, the chief object of our visit to the glaciers.

Here we were, with provisions for four or five days longer, the mountain apparently in good order, the weather perfection, and we were not pushed for time. The mountain had been inspected by various members of the party from different coigns of vantage. We had seen from a distance the névé fields leading on to the Linda Glacier.

Against this we had first to consider the state of Dixon’s health. He was quite prepared, and anxious to try the ascent. We thought that it would be too much for him. Then there was the accident to the lamp, which was now useless, there was no firewood at the bivouac, 7,400 feet up, and no sure means of procuring water. Annan, too, had to leave to attend to his work down country, and I think, if the truth were told, that Johnson and I felt as if we had had enough of mountaineering for a time.