It will not be out of place here to give a description of our usual Alpine outfit, which may enable others to glean some idea of what is requisite and convenient for Alpine work in New Zealand.
The most necessary gear for ice and rock work is suitable boots, broad-soled and flat-heeled, shod well but not too thickly with heavy hobs, wrought nails being preferable to cast. An ice-axe for each man—not the light tourist’s axe, but a guide’s axe. Alpine rope is quite indispensable, and Buckingham’s is the favourite make; we usually take two or three 50-feet lengths. Two tents, 6 feet by 8 feet and 6 feet by 7 feet, the former for use at the head camp, the latter a tent built after the ‘Whymper’ pattern with the floor sewn in, but capable of being pitched on inverted ice-axes lengthened by two 18-inch supplementary poles (an ingenious contrivance of Dixon’s). Sleeping bags, 7 feet by 3 feet, made of blanketing, and covered with an outside bag of oiled calico, impervious to water. Aneroid, thermometer, prismatic compass, pocket compass. Goggles (neutral tint) are invaluable, and save the eyes from the awful glare which is always experienced on new snow and from the blinding sleet which drives in a storm. Folding lanterns (Austrian pattern) often enable one to find the way to camp when benighted or to make very early starts. A sheath-knife comes in very handy in camp, and a supply of fresh nails for our boots is never omitted, whilst a small ‘Aurora’ lamp stove is invaluable above the line of vegetation, and a shanghai, or common schoolboy’s window-breaker, is often useful in procuring birds for the cuisine.
THE TASMAN GLACIER FROM NEAR THE DE LA BÊCHE CAMP
[From a Photograph by A. P. Harper
For clothing, woollen shirts and knickerbockers of warm tweed material are the best, and great comfort is to be found in a loose-fitting boating ‘sweater’ worn over the waistcoat.
For provisions we generally rely on fresh mutton, to be fried in the pan or boiled in the ‘billy,’ bread, biscuits, rice, oatmeal, Liebig’s Extract, chocolate, tea, and so on. A pound or two of fresh butter is always a boon, and a few tins of marmalade, whilst to some men onions supply the oft-felt want of a vegetable diet.
There is another indispensable, which here, as in the Caucasus, is very necessary. I refer to the late Mr. Donkin’s naïve requisite at the end of his Caucasus list—‘infinite patience’; and to this may be added fixedness of purpose, determination, and perseverance.