This short work contains the story of five seasons’ climbing and exploring in the New Zealand Alps. Most of the material embodied in it has already appeared from time to time, in rather a different form, in the Christchurch (N.Z.) ‘Weekly Press.’
The author trusts that the publication of the same in book form, together with a map of the locality and a few photographic reproductions, will supply a want in the shape of a guide-book to the Alpine mountain district which is already beginning to be felt by tourists in New Zealand; and he hopes that the contents may not prove uninteresting to the general public, more especially to Swiss and Caucasian climbers, few of whom are perhaps aware of the extent and nature of the New Zealand Alpine chain.
The map is compiled by the New Zealand Government Survey Office from the work of Mr. T. N. Brodrick, Government Surveyor, and that of Dr. R. von Lendenfeld. The illustrations are from photographs by Messrs. Wheeler and Son. Their operator has in several mountain expeditions accompanied the author, who takes this opportunity of expressing his thanks to the New Zealand Government Survey Department, and to Messrs. Wheeler, for their kind assistance.
It will doubtless be said that the summit of Aorangi has not yet been attained: quite true. Like Mr. Green, the author and his friend were ‘wise in time.’ Yet it is only a quibble to dispute the ascent of the mountain, for being on the ice-cap of Aorangi is like being on the topmost rung of a ladder, and yet not upon the projections above that step.
Christchurch, New Zealand:
April 13, 1891.
CONTENTS
| Chapter I INTRODUCTORY | |
| PAGE | |
| The New Zealand Alps and their glaciers | [1] |
| Chapter II THE ROUTE TO THE MOUNT COOK DISTRICT | |
| A short description of the route to the Mount Cook district, and of the topographical features of the Mueller, Hooker, and Tasman Valleys | [5] |
| Chapter III FIRST ATTEMPT TO CLIMB AORANGI | |
| First impressions—Swagging—The Hochstetter Glacier—Defeat—The perils of river crossing | [14] |
| Chapter IV SECOND ATTEMPT TO CLIMB AORANGI | |
| A flooded camp in the Tasman Valley—Hard struggles—We reach Green’s bivouac | [32] |
| Chapter V THIRD ATTEMPT TO CLIMB AORANGI | |
| Photography on the Tasman Glacier—Attempt to scale Mount De la Bêche | [42] |
| Chapter VI ASCENT OF THE HOCHSTETTER DOME | |
| Camp under De la Bêche—Twelve hours on snow and ice—The pangs of hunger | [58] |
| Chapter VII FOURTH ATTEMPT TO CLIMB AORANGI | |
| We reach the Great Plateau at last—Defeat again—The crossing of the Ball Pass | [65] |
| Chapter VIII FIRST EXPLORATION OF THE MURCHISON GLACIER | |
| Hard swagging—Erroneous maps—The struggle for Starvation Saddle—Exhaustion and hunger—Return | [76] |
| Chapter IX FIFTH ATTEMPT TO CLIMB AORANGI | |
| Avalanches—The bivouac again—First attempt repulsed—Second attempt—The Great Plateau—The Linda Glacier—Hard work step-cutting—The terrible couloirs—Victory at last—Descent by lantern-light—Back to civilisation | [90] |
| Chapter X ON SOME OF THE PHENOMENA OF GLACIERS | |
| The cause of glaciers—Formation and structure—Motion—Moraines: Lateral, medial, and terminal—‘Surface’ moraines—Crevasses—Moulins—Glacier tables—Glacier cones—Surface torrents—Avalanches—Cornices | [109] |
| Chapter XI CANOEING ON THE NEW ZEALAND RIVERS | |
| The Waimakariri—The enormous rainfall—Descent of the Waitaki River—The Tasman branch—Lake Pukaki—Leaky canoes—The Pukaki Rapids—The Waitaki Gorge—Out on the plains again—Sixty miles paddle to catch the train—Home once more | [119] |
L’Envoi | [131] |
Appendix | [133] |
A Short Glossary of Technical Alpine Terms | [139] |