CHAPTER IX
FIFTH ATTEMPT TO CLIMB AORANGI
Avalanches—The bivouac again—First attempt repulsed—Second attempt—The Great Plateau—The Linda Glacier—Hard work step-cutting—The terrible couloirs—Victory at last—Descent by lantern-light—Back to civilisation
Are not the mountains, waves, and skies a part
Of me and of my soul, as I of them?
Is not the love of these deep in my heart
With a pure passion?
Whymper was eight seasons climbing the Matterhorn. Dent made innumerable attempts ere he conquered the Aiguille du Dru—why should we despair about Aorangi?
We certainly were at a great disadvantage as compared with Swiss mountaineers; we had to begin at the very bottom rung of the ladder, having no trained guides. But I am confident that if we had been as many years climbing with guides as we have been without them we should be far less proficient mountaineers.