He might think that hearty drinking
Would appease his dying throes."
A wine called "Clary" was also drank at this period. It appears to have been an infusion of the herb of that name in spirit, and is spoken of by physicians of the time as an excellent cordial for the stomach, and highly efficacious in the cure of hysterical affections. This may in some measure account for the statement in the Household Ordinances for the well keeping of the Princess Cecil, afterwards mother to that right lusty and handsome King, Edward IV.; we there find it laid down "that for the maintenance of honest mirth she shall take, an hour before bedtime, a cup of Clary wine." "Red wine" is also spoken of in the reign of Henry VIII.; but it is uncertain to what class of wine it belonged, or whence it came: if palatable, however, its cheapness would recommend it; for at the marriage of Gervys Clinton and Mary Neville, three hogsheads of it, for the wedding-feast, were bought for five guineas. Gascony and Guienne wines were sold in the reign of Henry VIII. at eighteenpence a gallon, and Malmsey, Romaney, and sack at twelvepence a pint. In the reign of Edward IV. few places were allowed more than two taverns, and London was limited to forty. None but those who could spend 100 marks a year, or the son of a Duke, Marquis, Earl, or Baron, were allowed to keep more than ten gallons of wine at one time; and only the High Sheriffs, Magistrates of Cities, and the inhabitants of fortified towns might keep vessels of wine for their own use. In the same reign, however, we learn that the Archbishop of York consumed 100 tons on his enthronement, and as much as four pipes a month were consumed in some of our noblemen's houses. We must not, however, pass over the 15th century without proclaiming it as the dawn of the "Cup-epoch," if we may be allowed the term, as gleaned from the rolls of some of the ancient colleges of our Universities. In the computus of Magstoke Priory, A.D. 1447, is an entry in Latin, the translation of which seems to be this:—"Paid for raisin wine, with comfits and spices, when Sir S. Montford's fool was here and exhibited his merriments in the oriel chamber." And even in Edward III.'s reign, we read that at the Christmas feasts the drinks were a collection of spiced liquors, and cinnamon and grains of paradise were among the dessert confections—evidence of compound drinks being in fashion; and these, although somewhat too much medicated to be in accordance with our present taste, deserve well of us as leading to better things. Olden worthies who took their cups regularly, and so lived clean and cheerful lives, when they were moved to give up their choice recipes for the public good, described them under the head of "kitchen physic;" for the oldest "Curry" or Cookery Books (the words are synonymous) include, under this head, both dishes of meats and brewages of drinks. One cup is described as "of mighty power in driving away the cobweby fogs that dull the brain," another as "a generous and right excellent cordial, very comforting to the stomach;" and their possession of these good qualities was notably the reason of their appearance at entertainments. Among the most prominent ranks the medicated composition called Hypocras, also styled "Ypocras for Lords," for the making of which various recipes are to be found, one of which we will quote:—
| "Take of Aqua vitæ (brandy) | 5 oz. | |
| Pepper | 2 oz. | |
| Ginger | 2 oz. | |
| Cloves | 2 oz. | |
| Grains of Paradise | 2 oz. | |
| Ambergris | 5 grs. | |
| Musk | 2 grs. |
Infuse these for twenty-four hours, then put a pound of sugar to a quart of red wine or cider, and drop three or four drops of the infusion into it, and it will make it taste richly." This compound was usually given at marriage festivals, when it was introduced at the commencement of the banquet, served hot; for it is said to be of so comforting and generous a nature that the stomach would be at once put into good temper to enjoy the meats provided. Hypocras (so called from a particular bag through which it was strained) was also a favourite winter beverage; and we find in an old almanac of 1699 the lines—
"Sack, Hypocras, now, and burnt brandy
Are drinks as good and warm as can be."
Hypocras, however, is mentioned as early as the 14th century. From this period we select our champion of compound drinks in no less a personage than the noblest courtier of Queen Bess; for, among other legacies of price, Sir Walter Raleigh has handed down to us a recipe for "Cordial Water," which, in its simplicity and goodness, stands alone among the compounds of the age. "Take," says he, "a gallon of strawberries and put them into a pint of aqua vitæ; let them stand four days, then strain them gently off, and sweeten the liquor as it pleaseth thee." This beverage, though somewhat too potent for modern palates, may, by proper dilution, be rendered no unworthy cup even in the present age. From the same noble hand we get a recipe for Sack Posset, which full well shows us propriety of taste in its compounder. "Boil a quart of cream with quantum sufficit of sugar, mace, and nutmeg; take half a pint of sack, and the same quantity of ale, and boil them well together, adding sugar; these, being boiled separately, are now to be added. Heat a pewter dish very hot, and cover your basin with it, and let it stand by the fire for two or three hours."
With regard to wines, we find in the beginning of the 16th century that the demand for Malmsey was small; and in 1531 we find Sack first spoken of, that being the name applied to the vintages of Candia, Cyprus, and Spain. Shakspeare pronounced Malmsey to be "fulsom," and bestowed all his praises on "fertil sherries;" and when Shakspeare makes use of the word Sack, he evidently means by it a superior class of wine. Thus Sir Launcelot Sparcock, in the "London Prodigal," says,
"Drawer, let me have sack for us old men: