MARCH TO JUNE, 1860.—FIRST JOURNEY TO ITALY.
Crossing Mont Cenis by night in diligence—Turin—Sees Count Cavour—Genoa—Leghorn—Pisa—Civita Vecchia—Disappointment with first sight of Rome—Better spirits after visit to Capitol—View from Capitol—Points most struck with in Rome—Sculpture at Capitol—Sculpture at Vatican first seen by torchlight—St. Peter's—Other churches—Sistine Chapel—Paintings—Illumination of St. Peter's—Disappointment with Michael Angelo's Moses—Visits to artists' studios—Riedel and Overbeck—Pamfili Doria Gardens—Frascati—Tivoli—Pictures at Capitol—Lateran Museum—Shelley's and Keats's graves—Letter to Mrs. Congreve—Pope's blessing—Easter ceremonies—From Rome to Naples—Description—Museo Borbonico—Visit to Pompeii—Solemnity of street of tombs—Letter to Mrs. Congreve—From Naples to Salerno and Pæstum—Temple of Vesta—Temple of Neptune fulfils expectations—Amalfi—Drive to Sorrento—Back to Naples—By steamer to Leghorn—To Florence—Views from Fiesole and Bellosguardo—The Duomo—Baptistery—Palaces—Churches—Dante's tomb—Frescoes—Pictures at the Uffizi—Pictures at the Pitti—Pictures at the Accademia—Expedition to Siena—Back to Florence—Michael Angelo's house—Letter to Blackwood—Dwarfing effect of the past—Letter to Major Blackwood on Times' criticism of "The Mill on the Floss," and first mention of an Italian novel—Leave Florence for Bologna—Churches and pictures—To Padua by Ferrara—The Arena Chapel—Venice by moonlight—Doge's Palace—St. Mark's—Pictures—Scuola di San Rocco—Accademia—Gondola to Chioggia—From Venice to Verona—Milan—Brera Gallery and Ambrosian Library—Disappointment with cathedral—Bellagio—Over Splügen to Switzerland—Letter to Blackwood—Saw Moleschott at Zurich—Home by Berne and Geneva.
CHAPTER XI.
Journal, 1860.
July 1.—We found ourselves at home again, after three months of delightful travel. From Berne we brought our eldest boy Charles, to begin a new period in his life, after four years at Hofwyl. During our absence "The Mill on the Floss" came out (April 4), and achieved a greater success than I had ever hoped for it. The subscription was 3600 (the number originally printed was 4000); and shortly after its appearance, Mudie having demanded a second thousand, Blackwood commenced striking off 2000 more, making 6000. While we were at Florence I had the news that these 6000 were all sold, and that 500 more were being prepared. From all we can gather, the votes are rather on the side of "The Mill" as a better book than "Adam."
Letter to Madame Bodichon, 1st July, 1860.
We reached home by starlight at one o'clock this morning; and I write in haste, fear, and trembling lest you should already be gone to Surrey. You know what I should like—that you and your husband should come to us the first day possible, naming any hour and conditions. We would arrange meals and everything else as would best suit you. Of course I would willingly go to London to see you, if you could not come to me. But I fear lest neither plan should be practicable, and lest this letter should have to be sent after you. It is from your note only that I have learned your loss.[21] It has made me think of you with the sense that there is more than ever a common fund of experience between us. But I will write nothing more now. I am almost ill with fatigue, and have only courage to write at all because of my anxiety not to miss you.