One of the earliest references to drilling pearls was made by Rugerus, a monk who lived in the eleventh century. He says:
Pearls are found in the sea-shell and shells of other waters; these are perforated with a fine steeled instrument which is fixed in wood, having a small wheel of lead, also another wood in which it may be turned, to which a strap must be placed by which it may be revolved. But should it be necessary that the aperture of any pearl be made larger, a wire may be placed in the opening with a little fine sand, one end of which may be held in the teeth, the other in the left hand, and by the right the pearl is conducted upwards and downwards, and in the meantime sand is applied, that the apertures may become wider. Sea-shells are also cut into pieces and are filed as pearls, sufficiently useful upon gold, and they are polished as above.[[417]]
In “The Toy Cart,” a Hindu drama by Sudrake, who lived about the beginning of the Christian era, there is a description of a jeweler’s workshop attached to the house of a courtezan. He says: “Some set rubies in gold, some string gold beads on colored thread, some string pearls, some grind lapis lazuli, some cut shells and some grind and pierce coral.”[[418]]
The Chinese and Korean method of drilling pearls differs materially from that of the Occident. A pear-shaped pearl is frequently drilled horizontally and secured by wire or silk, and not drilled perpendicularly, as with us, to have a metal wire or peg fastened into it. If the orientals drill a pearl perpendicularly, the hole is generally carried entirely through it, and a gold knot, which is used as a bead, is placed at the lower end, and sometimes a tiny gem is set in this peg, or else the pearl is secured either by some projection below, or by means of a bit of enamel, or some other object may be attached to the gold or wire below it. Button pearls, especially those of the abalone, are drilled horizontally through the base and secured to the ornament, or to the silk or other material on which they are sewed, by means of a thread or wire; or else they may be drilled from below by means of two sloping holes forming a V, the thread or wire being passed upward until it strikes the angle, and then passed outward again through the other branch of the hole. Many fine, round, and pear-shaped pearls of oriental origin may be seen with this end closed either with a speck of pearl, a diamond, or a ruby.
A most interesting and careful description of the methods of drilling pearls was given by James Cordiner in his valuable volume, “A Description of Ceylon,” published in London in 1807, pages 64–66.
Scraping ends of silk threads for stringing pearl necklace
Stringing a pearl collar in sections; cleaning and reaming out a pearl
