I considered myself fortunate, shortly after my arrival at Rio, to make the acquaintance, and gain the friendship, of a family that had already travelled in distant parts of South America. It is only he who, day after day, is pursuing his solitary rambles through the dark forests, in the shady glens, on the mountain summits, or by the surf-beaten shores of such a country as Brazil, where all is new, and all is strange, who can fully estimate the privilege of being received with welcome into a family whose leisure hours are devoted to pursuits similar to his own. Many of my excursions in the vicinity of Rio, were undertaken in company with these friends, and to their local knowledge of the country I owe some of my finest botanical acquisitions. To them, as well as to most of the English residents at Rio, I am indebted for many attentions during the different periods of my residence in that neighbourhood.
In order to present some general idea of the splendid scenery of the country, and the leading features of this part of Brazil, I will give an account of some of these excursions. There is a path by the side of the great aqueduct which has always been the favourite resort of naturalists who have visited Rio; and there is certainly no walk near the city so fruitful either in insects or plants. The following notes were made on the return from my first visit along the whole length of the aqueduct. After reaching the head of the Laranjeiras valley, which is about two miles in extent, the ascent becomes rather steep. At this time it was about nine A.M., and the rays of the sun, proceeding from a cloudless sky, were very powerful; but a short distance brought us within the cool shade of the dense forest which skirts the sides of the Corcovado, and through which our path lay. In the valley we saw some very large trees of a thorny-stemmed Bombax, but they were then destitute both of leaves and flowers, nearly all the trees of this tribe being deciduous. There we also passed under the shade of a very large solitary tree which overhangs the road, and is well known by the name of the Pao Grande. It is the Jequetibá of the Brazilians, and the Couratari legalis of Martius. Considerably further up, and on the banks of a small stream that descends from the mountain, we found several curious Dorstenias, and many delicate species of Ferns. We also added here to our collections fine specimens of the Tree-fern (Trichopteris excelsa), which was the first of the kind I had yet seen. The forests here exhibited all the characteristics of tropical vegetation. The rich black soil, which has been forming for centuries in the broad ravines from the decay of leaves, &c., is covered with herbaceous ferns, Dorstenias, Heliconias, Begonias, and other plants which love shade and humidity; while above these rise the tall and graceful Tree-ferns, and the noble Palms, the large leaves of which tremble in the slightest breeze. But it is the gigantic forest trees themselves which produce the strongest impression on the mind of a stranger. How I felt the truth of the observation of Humboldt, that, when a traveller newly arrived from Europe penetrates for the first time into the forests of South America, nature presents itself to him under such an unexpected aspect, that he can scarcely distinguish what most excites his admiration, the deep silence of those solitudes, the individual beauty and contrast of forms, or that vigour and freshness of vegetable life which characterize the climate of the tropics.[1] What first claims attention is the great size of the trees, their thickness, and the height to which they rear their unbranched stems. Then, in place of the few mosses and lichens which cover the trunks and boughs of the forest trees of temperate climes, here they are bearded from the roots to the very extremities of the smallest branches, with Ferns, Aroideæ, Tillandsias, Cacti, Orchideæ, Gesnereæ, and other epiphytous plants. Besides these, many of the larger trunks are encircled with the twining stems of Bignonias, and shrubs of similar habit, the branches of which frequently become thick, and compress the tree so much, that it perishes in the too close embrace. Those climbers, again, which merely ascend the trunk, supporting themselves by their numerous small roots, often become detached after reaching the boughs, and, where many of them exist, the stem presents the aspect of a large mast supported by its stays. These rope-like twiners and creeping plants, passing from tree to tree, descending from the branches to the ground, and ascending again to other boughs, intermingle themselves in a thousand ways, and render a passage through such parts of the forest both difficult and annoying.
Having reached, by mid-day, the level on which the water of the aqueduct is brought from its source, we continued our walk along it for upwards of two miles. Our progress, however, was slow, from the number of new objects continually claiming our attention. In damp shady spots by the side of the aqueduct we found the common water-cress (Nasturtium officinale) of Europe, which is one of the few plants that are truly cosmopolite; and on the rocks grew some little European mosses, which, being old acquaintances, recalled pleasing thoughts of home. Numerous ferns, and many strange-leaved Begonias grew along the side of the little stream. While collecting specimens of a moss, I had a providential escape from a poisonous snake: I caught it in my hand along with a handful of the moss, which was soon dropped when I perceived what accompanied it. Venomous snakes are not uncommon in the province of Rio de Janeiro; but accidents do not so often result from them as might be supposed.
About seven o’clock P.M., we regained the spot where we had left the servants, the horses, and the materials for our dinner; and by the time we had partaken of this repast, darkness had already set in. As the road is by no means of easy descent, even by day, we should not have thought of remaining so long, had we not been certain of moonlight. During the half hour we delayed for the rising of the moon, we listened to the sounds produced by the various animals which are in a state of activity at this hour of the evening. Pre-eminent above all the others, is that emitted by the blacksmith frog; every sound which he produces ringing in the ear like the clang of a hammer upon an anvil, while the tones uttered by his congeners strikingly resemble the lowing of cattle at a distance. Besides these, the hooting of an owl, the shrill song of the cicada, and the chirping of grasshoppers, formed a continued concert of inharmonious tones; while the air was lighted up by the fitful flashes of numerous fire-flies.
When the moon rose we continued our journey, but the lowering clouds, together with the dark shade of the overhanging trees, prevented our deriving much advantage from its light. When we emerged from the forest and gained a glimpse of the horizon, everything betokened an approaching storm. Towards the north lay a mass of the darkest clouds, whence streamed, from time to time, sheets of the most brilliant lightning. This continued till we reached home, shortly after ten o’clock, and we were scarcely seated when the storm broke forth in all its fury, accompanied with a deluge of rain.
From various parts of the watercourse fine views of the low country are obtained. The finest, perhaps, is that which discloses the Lake of Rodrigo Freitas. We looked, as it were, through a large portal; on the left is the Corcovado, covered with a dense forest of various tinted foliage, and on the right, the nearly perpendicular face of another mountain, covered with a few Cacti and other succulent plants, but richly wooded towards the summit. From this point there runs a large wide valley, at the bottom of which lies the Botanic Garden, and still further on, the lake. On the flat grounds by the shores of the lake are a number of cottages, surrounded by cultivated fields. Immediately beyond these is the sea-shore, with its broad belt of white sand on which a heavy surf is always breaking. All beyond, with the exception of a small island or two to the left is the great Southern Atlantic Ocean, bounded by the blue sky. In the course of our walk we often sat down to rest ourselves, and to enjoy, in the silence and repose which surrounded us, the romantic prospects which were constantly presenting themselves.
The Corcovado mountain offers a rich field to the botanist. I frequently visited the lower portions, but only once ascended to the summit. The ascent is from the N.W. side, and although rather steep in some places, may be ridden on horseback all the way up. Some of the trees on the lower parts of it are very large. The thick underwood consists of Palms, Melastomaceæ, Myrtaceæ, Tree-ferns, Crotons, &c.; and beneath these are many delicate herbaceous ferns, Dorstenias, Heliconias, and, in the more open places, a few large grasses. Towards the summit the trees are of much smaller growth, and shrubs belonging to the genus Croton are abundant, as well as a small kind of bamboo. The summit itself is a large mass of very coarse-grained granite. In the clefts of the rocks grow a few small kinds of Orchideous plants, and a beautiful tuberous-rooted scarlet-flowered Gesneria. From this point a magnificent panoramic view of the bay, the city, and the surrounding country is obtained. The temperature at this elevation is so much reduced, that it is not difficult to fancy one’s self suddenly transported to a higher latitude. A strong breeze was blowing, and just before leaving, the top of the mountain became enveloped in one of those dark clouds which so frequently hang over it towards the beginning of the rainy season.
Another interesting journey made during my stay at Rio, was to the Tijuca mountains, whither I was accompanied by a friend, and where we remained ten days. Instead of the direct road from Rio, we preferred the worst and more circuitous one which leads along the shore. Near the sea, and about fifteen miles distant from the city, rises the Gavea, or Topsail Mountain, so called from its square shape, and well known to English sailors by the name, of Lord Hood’s Nose. It has a flat top, and rises about two thousand feet above the level of the sea, to which it presents a nearly perpendicular precipitous face. We remained a night at the house of a Frenchman, who possessed a small coffee estate. The coffee is planted on the rocky sloping ground which lies between the base of the mountain and the sea. The situation is cool, and possesses a moist climate. Among the loose rocks at the foot of the mountain we made a fine collection of beautiful land-shells, and on the rocks by the sea-shore, we found the beautiful Gloxinia speciosa, which is now so common in the hot-houses of England, growing in the greatest profusion, and covered with flowers. Along with it grows a kind of wild Parsley, and twining among the bushes, a new kind of Indian cress (Tropæolum orthoceras, Gardn.). On the face of the mountain, at an elevation of several hundred feet, we observed some large patches of one of those beautiful large-flowered Orchideous plants which are so common in Brazil. Its large rose-coloured flowers were very conspicuous, but we could not reach them. A few days afterwards we found it on a neighbouring mountain, and ascertained it to be Cattleya labiata. Those on the Gavea will long continue to vegetate, far from the reach of the greedy collector.
The road, after winding round the Gavea, terminates at a small salt water lake, which passengers, who follow this route, are obliged to cross, or rather to pass from one end to the other, in consequence of the flank of a high hill which runs into it, and prevents a passage along its margin. We passed the lake in a rotten leaky canoe, and saw on the face of the steep rocks many curious plants which we could not reach. The path which led to the house where we were to take up our quarters, lay for about two miles through a flat meadow-land, partly in its original state, and partly planted with Indian corn, Mandiocca, and Bananas. We passed many small habitations belonging to poor people of colour, mostly fishermen. Before reaching the foot of the mountain over which the road leads to Tijuca, we passed a migrating body of small black ants. The immense number of individuals comprising it may be imagined from the fact, that the column was more than six feet broad, and extended in length to upwards of thirty yards. The ground was completely covered with the little creatures, so closely were they packed together. The natural history of ants has as yet been but little studied, particularly with regard to the enumeration of species. They are more numerous than naturalists are aware of. In those parts within the tropics where humidity prevails, they are neither so varied in species, nor so abundant in individuals, as in drier districts. While residing at Pernambuco, I remember taking notice of all the species I met with in the course of a single day, and they amounted to about twenty-five.
Before ascending the hill we visited the falls of Tijuca, which are only at a short distance from the road. The crystal water of a large rivulet falls over two successive gently inclined masses of rock, upwards of one hundred feet high. It rather glides in a broad broken sheet than falls, and is received in a large pool below. This cascade reminded me of those which are so often to be met with in the wooded glens of Scotland. By dusk, after gradually ascending the mountains, we reached the house; it is situated in an old coffee plantation, belonging to a Brazilian nobleman, but it was then rented by a party of young English merchants in Rio, who used it as a holiday resort, and, by the kindness of one of them, we were allowed to remain at it for a few days.