At 4 o’clock P.M., we reached a place by the side of a small stream, where I determined to remain for the night; and, while the blacks were occupied in cutting wood for a fire and in preparing dinner, I took a walk up the course of the little stream. As I estimated this spot to be at an elevation of about 4,500 feet, I naturally expected a vegetation different from that in the valley below. The first plant that attracted my attention was what I imagined to be a fine individual of Cereus truncatus, in full flower, hanging from the under side of the trunk of a large tree that was bent over the stream, but on getting possession of it, it proved to be a new, and, perhaps, a still more beautiful species. I have named it Cereus Russellianus, in honour of His Grace the late Duke of Bedford, one of the most liberal supporters of my mission to Brazil: it has since been introduced to the hot-houses of England. A little way further up the stream, by the side of a small waterfall, and on a slanting bank near it, grew great abundance of a fine dark red-flowered Amaryllis. This spot is one of the most charming I have ever seen. The bed of the stream is about ten feet broad, but it is only during heavy rains that the water covers this space; at this time the stream was little more than perceptible. The water falls over three successive shelves of granite, each about eight feet high, the faces of which are covered with mosses. Along the stream at the bottom of the fall there are several middle-sized trees, the branches of which are festooned with the long branches of a Fuchsia, loaded with splendid crimson flowers. By the side of the fall there are several bushes of a large-flowered Pleroma, and, along with them, a few of a red-blossomed Esterhazya, and a broad thick-leaved species of Clusia (C. fragrans, Gard.), loading the atmosphere with a delightful odour arising from its large white blossoms; beneath these grow the Amaryllis, an Eryngium, several Tillandsias, and many Ferns. Having gained the upper part of the fall, I found a space, extending to a considerable distance on each side and for some way up the mountain, destitute of trees—nothing but bare portions of rock, with occasional masses of low shrubs and herbaceous plants. Among the Orchideæ, the beautiful Zygopetalon Mackaii and the odoriferous Maxillaria picta were not the least common. Darkness now beginning to set in, I returned to the encampment, where I found a large fire lighted; the evening was so fine that I considered the erection of a hut unnecessary, and lay down about eight P.M., on a few palm leaves by the fire, with my Poncho round me, to pass the night.
When I arose next morning at daybreak, I found the thermometer at 46°. While breakfast was preparing I again went out to botanize, but added little more than a few Ferns to my collection of the previous evening. Our journey to the place where we slept was of very gradual ascent; we had now to commence the ascent proper of the peaks. Leaving behind all that was not actually necessary to be taken along with us, we began our journey by passing the waterfall, and walking up the bed of the stream, along the gently sloping face of a granite rock; the ascent of several parts of this was rather difficult, having to crawl up on our hands and knees; after half an hour’s hard work we reached a comparatively flat wooded spot. On the steep part I collected, in moist places, an Eriocaulon, a small Sun-Dew, and a new genus belonging to the Gentian tribe; among these grew also the curious Burmannia bicolor. In passing through the wood above mentioned, I saw plenty of my new Cactus growing on the stems of the larger trees, whilst the rocks were covered with Gesnerias, and different kinds of Orchidaceous plants. Emerging from the wood we encountered another steep rocky place, almost entirely covered with a large pine-apple-like Tillandsia, above which rose a few plants of a fine large scarlet-flowered shrubby Salvia (S. Benthamiana, Gardn.), and a pale-blossomed Virgularia. On a nearly bare portion of the rock, grew several patches of a large herbaceous plant, belonging to the tribe of the Gentians; it grows from a foot to two feet high, with thick succulent glaucous leaves, the upper ones connate, and from out of which proceed about half a dozen pedicels, each bearing a single large flower, the calyx of which is much inflated and tinged with purple; it is the Prepusa connata, Gardn. The only previously known species was found by Martius, on a large mountain range between the Diamond country and Bahia; a third was afterwards discovered on the very summit of the Organ Mountains. Passing this place, we again entered a wooded tract, where we found many Tapir paths, as we had also done the day previous in the woods through which we passed, which rendered our progress much quicker than it otherwise would have been, as the branches above only require to be cut away to make a good road. Judging from the abundance of the tracts which we here met with, the Tapir must be a very common animal in this remote and solitary part of the mountains; here they are as yet out of the reach of the hunter, who commits great havock among those which inhabit the lower woods, and there is also abundance of herbage to supply them with food. In passing through this wood, one of the blacks shot a Jacutinga (Penelope Jacutinga, Spix), and I collected specimens of a few Orchidaceous plants, and a large yellow-flowered Senecio.
Leaving the wood we came upon a slanting Sphagnum bog, in which grew some very alpine-looking shrubs; these consisted chiefly of a Proteaceous-like Baccharis, a Vaccinium, an Andromeda, the Lavoisiera imbricata, remarkable for its large flowers and small leaves, and a Pleroma; among the moss, an Eriocaulon, and a handsome Utricularia with large cordate leaves and purple flowers, grew in great profusion. Judging from the top of the mountain, we were now at an elevation of nearly 6,000 feet. Leaving it, we commenced a very steep ascent covered principally with low shrubs; we continued our way for about an hour through this stunted vegetation, making but slow progress, although we were much facilitated by having the path of the Tapir to crawl up. By following this track we reached a point from which a beautiful prospect of the low country was obtained, particularly to the eastward, where, as far as the eye could reach, it was one mass of conical-shaped hills, only one ridge rising to any considerable height above the rest; the point we had attained was the summit of one of the many peaks which form the upper range of the Organ Mountains. At about a quarter of a mile distant stood what I then believed to be the highest peak, and certainly not more than three or four hundred feet above us; but between the two peaks lay a deep densely-wooded ravine. It being now past two o’clock in the afternoon, it was too late to think of ascending that day, so I determined to remain where we were for the night, and attempt it next day, but the blacks refused to do so, on account of no water being nearer than a little above where we had slept the previous night. As I could not force them to remain, I was, much against my will, obliged to abandon all idea of reaching the summit at this time. Not having a barometer with me, I endeavoured to ascertain the boiling point of water, but in doing so, broke the tube of the thermometer. Four years later, during a visit of six days to the peaks, I was more fortunate; of that excursion an account will be found in a subsequent part of the present work. The summit of the peak on which we now were, was quite a little flower-garden; a pretty Fuchsia, in full flower, was trailing over the bare rocks; in their clefts grew a handsome Amaryllis, and on all sides numerous flowering shrubs. The coolness of the air and the stillness were quite refreshing; not a sound was to be heard; and the only animals to be seen were a few small birds, so tame that they allowed us to come quite close to them. After partaking of a slight repast we commenced our downward journey, and reached our encampment just as night was setting in. Next day, following the route by which we had come, we arrived at the Fazenda about four o’clock in the afternoon, groaning under our loads.
About a week after our return, I made another visit to the place where we had formerly encamped; my object was to obtain additional specimens of the many new plants which I had found in the neighbourhood. On this occasion I was again accompanied by “Pai Felipe” and the other three blacks; we left the Fazenda at eight o’clock in the morning, and reached our sleeping place about three in the afternoon. On the following day I occupied myself with making excursions in various directions; during these walks I collected great plenty of Cereus Russellianus. This plant offers a good example of nearly allied species representing each other in different regions of the same mountain; during the many times that I passed through the woods, on my journey to and from the peaks, I always found Cereus truncatus confined to the dense virgin forests below the elevation of 4,500 feet, while from this point to nearly the summit of the mountains, Cereus Russellianus alone was seen, enjoying a more open and a cooler region. The day was one of the most delightful that I ever remember to have witnessed, quite like one of the finest days of an English summer; the sky was clear and unclouded, and the atmosphere being free from that haze which often, in the finest weather, renders the view of distant objects indistinct, allowed us to obtain a perfect and well-defined prospect of the high mountains far to the eastward. Having got all my specimens put into paper, I lay down to sleep shortly after seven o’clock, little dreaming what a miserable night I was to spend. I had just fallen asleep by the fire, on my bed of palm leaves, when I was suddenly aroused from my slumber by a deluge of rain pouring down; one of those sudden and heavy thunder-storms, which are never witnessed in temperate climes, was passing over us. Had we been in an open place, we might have seen it approaching and been able to form some kind of shelter before it came on, but the tops of the trees by which we were covered prevented this. I never was out in such weather; the flashing of the lightning, the rolling of the thunder, which was breaking immediately over us, the roaring of the wind among the trees, and the falling of rotten branches, all combined to render the scene terrific. In a few minutes our large fire was extinguished, and the place swimming with water; although I was covered with a thick Poncho, it was but a poor protection for such a night. In half an hour the small stream beside us, which during the day had only a few inches of water, came roaring down like a cataract. To add to our misery, the night was pitch dark, so that we could not see to remedy our situation. What a night I spent may be imagined, when I mention that I sat from half-past seven in the evening till nearly three o’clock in the morning, under an incessant deluge of rain; a more perfect picture of patience, I flatter myself, could not be witnessed. About three it began to abate, and being in a shivering condition from the cold and wet, we made several attempts to kindle a fire, but without success: everything was too wet to burn, and we were therefore obliged to content ourselves without one. By seating myself at the root of a tree, and leaning my back against it, I managed, at four different times, to obtain about an hour’s sleep, but constantly awoke cold and shivering. Never was I so glad as when the first rays of daylight were seen streaming through the trees; and, as soon as we could see, we lost no time in preparing to return home. Shortly after we did start, it began to rain, and continued till we reached the Fazenda, at two o’clock in the afternoon.
During the whole of my six month’s residence on the Mountains, the cottages were generally crowded with visitors. There was, consequently, much gaiety, it being seldom that an evening party was not held at one or the other of them, where nearly the whole of the residents assembled. Then there were frequent Pic-nic parties to different distant parts of the estate, and, when the weather permitted, delightful evening rides. In this manner many of my leisure hours, which otherwise must have passed away very dully, were most agreeably spent. Indeed, I still look back upon these few months as one of the most happy periods of my life, for independently of those pleasant pastimes, I was daily occupied with a favourite pursuit, and that, too, in a field which was all but new.
CHAPTER III.
BAHIA AND PERNAMBUCO.
Departure from Rio de Janeiro—Arrival at Bahia—Description of this City—Voyage to Pernambuco—Jangadas—Description of the City and Environs of Pernambuco—The Jesuits—The Peasantry—Town of Olinda—Its Colleges and Botanic Garden—Visit to the Village of Monteiro—The German Colony of Catucá—The Island of Itamaricá—Pilar—Salt-works of Jaguaripe—Prevalent Diseases in the Island—Its Fisheries—Peculiar Mode of Capture.
On the tenth of June, 1837, I arrived in Rio from the Organ Mountains, and during the remainder of that month, July, August, and the early part of September, occupied myself in arranging and packing the collections brought down with me, and in making a few excursions in the neighbourhood. Having at length despatched everything for England, I took a passage for Pernambuco in H.M. Packet Opossum, being now desirous to explore the northern provinces. We sailed from Rio on the fifteenth of September and after a passage of thirteen days, during which we had much bad weather and contrary winds, reached Bahia. At three o’clock P.M., on the twenty-eighth, we came to an anchor in the bay opposite the city, and about a mile distant from it. As the land along this part of the coast rises only a few hundred feet above the level of the sea, it is not seen at so great a distance as the high lands are at Rio. In sailing up the bay, we kept pretty close to the shore, and I could not help remarking the great luxuriance of the vegetation. Cocoa-nut trees and other large palms are very abundant, and the mango trees are both larger and more numerous than those about Rio. The city of Bahia, when first seen, has a very imposing appearance, the greater part of it being built on the face of a hill, which rises about 500 feet above the sea, and the houses, most of which are of several stories, are all white-washed externally. The effect is much heightened by the great number of banana, orange, and cocoa-nut trees which are intermingled with the houses, the dark green leaves contrasting well with the white, and affording a pleasant relief to the eye. The Packet being allowed to remain here forty-eight hours, for the preparation of the mails for Pernambuco and England, I went on shore shortly after our arrival, with some of the other passengers.