We crossed during the day several recent tracks of natives but did not fall in with the natives themselves; we also saw many kangaroos, and halted for the night on an elevated basaltic ridge, at a point close to which there was a large crop of the grain which we called wild oats. This is a remarkable vegetable production, growing to the height of from five to six feet; in the stalk, the shape, and mode of insertion of the leaves it is similar to the oat of Europe; the manner in which the seeds grow in the two plants is also the same, and the seeds are nearly of the same size, but the Australian oat is furnished with a beard like the barley. When hungry I have repeatedly eaten these oats, which in some parts grow in such abundance that several acres of them might be mown at once; and I have little doubt that this plant would with cultivation turn out to be a very great addition to our tropical grains.*
(*Footnote. I am informed that the seeds of it which I introduced into the Isle of France in 1838 have greatly multiplied and that the plants are in a very flourishing state.)
March 25.
This morning we resumed our journey, crossing a succession of basaltic valleys. The vegetation was luxuriant beyond description; and it was ludicrous to see the heavy-tailed kangaroos leaping and floundering about in the long grass when they had quitted their beaten pathways and were suddenly disturbed by our approach.
CURIOUS BIRDS.
In crossing the second of these large valleys we saw two large white and black birds, more like pelicans than any other kind I am acquainted with; they had webbed feet, and the colour and form of their body resembled that of the pelican, but the head and beak were very different; after flying two or three times round our heads, well out of shot, so as to have a good peep at us, they flew away, and for the first and last time I saw this curious bird.
We now ascended a ridge of sandstone tableland which crossed our route: this was about three miles in width, and at its southern extremity were two lofty basaltic hills, from between which a small valley led down into another very large one that was the general receptacle of the streams which came pouring in from all directions. This last might be considered as a good type of the valleys in this portion of the country: at its northern extremity it was about four miles wide, being bounded on all sides by rocky wooded ranges with dark gullies from which numerous streams and springs poured forth their watery contributions to the main one. This last ran nearly down the centre of the principal valley, the width of which gradually contracted towards the south, where it terminated almost in a point, having a narrow lateral opening at the south-west end of not more than a quarter of a mile wide, and bounded by steep cliffs on each side, so as to form a perfect gorge, the direction of which was due west. In about a mile and a half this gorge met a cross valley, running from the south to the north, down which the waters were poured, so as to run back as it were upon their former course.
BASALTIC VALLEY.
We halted for the day in the main valley, which from the run of the waters above described must necessarily have been very elevated; it was, moreover, nearly level, forming indeed a sort of enclosed plateau, so that the streams, which both on entering and quitting it ran bubbling merrily along, preserved whilst in it a sluggish and scarcely perceptible course. When to this I add that it was composed of basaltic rocks and received the deposit of such an extent of elevated basaltic land I need scarcely add that it was highly fertile. I believe that these valleys, which are very common in North-Western Australia and contain from four to five thousand acres each, are as rich as any other spots upon the globe, and moreover possess the great advantage of being situated close to navigable rivers.
March 26.