In the ride from Matanzas to Oratava the road is wretched but the scenery compensates for this. Upon arriving at the brow of the hill above Oratava, a beautiful prospect bursts upon the sight; directly in front rises the lordly Peak, whilst in the foreground are vineyards, cottages, and palm-trees; in the centre stands La Villa, the upper town of Oratava, encircled with gardens; on the right lies a rich slope running down to the sea which bounds the prospect on that side; and on the left rise rocky mountains, for the greater part clothed with wood.
We now spurred our horses on and, leaving the guides behind, soon reached La Villa, accompanied by a countryman who had joined us upon a pony; but, on getting into the town, the melancholy truth rushed upon my recollection that we could not speak Spanish: had we remained with our guides this would not much have signified, for they had been told at Santa Cruz to take us to a hotel.
EMBARRASSMENTS ON ARRIVAL THERE.
Nothing remained now but to do our best to open a communication; we accordingly accosted a variety of individuals in English, French, Italian, German--but in vain. Spanish alone was understood or spoken here; our friend, the countryman, stuck to us most nobly, he understood us not a bit better than the rest but saw that we were in distress and would not desert us.
We at last deliberately halted under a house where we could get a little shade, for the sun was intensely hot and, a crowd having soon collected, we harangued them alternately and received long answers in reply; but, although able to make out a great deal of what they said, we could not get them to understand a single word on our part. At length kind fate sent the guides to our rescue and they led us off direct to the hotel.
This however brought only partial relief to our wants; we opened our mouths, and pointed down our throats. So much was understood and a chicken instantly killed. We laid our heads upon a table, feigning sleep, and were shown to a wretched room; but here all converse terminated. Mr. Lushington desired to ascend the Peak therefore it became necessary that we should hit upon some means of making them comprehend this; but all efforts were in vain. At length they proposed to send for an interpreter, which was accordingly done; but he was at dinner, and could not then come.
At last the interpreter arrived, a Spanish Don who had been for some years resident in a mercantile house in New York; he was very dirty, but good-natured, and soon made the necessary arrangements for Mr. Lushington; who for eight dollars was to be provided with a pony, a sumpter mule, provisions and guides, taken safely to the top of the Peak and brought back again; which I thought reasonable enough.
After these arrangements I managed to scrape some acquaintance with this Spanish gentleman, who told me to my great edification that I was in a notorious gambling house. I had been informed at Santa Cruz that the inhabitants of those islands were dreadfully addicted to that vice, and I now, from personal observation, found this was too true.
After dinner I started to walk to the Port of Oratava, distant about three miles; there was beautiful scenery the whole way, and a tolerable road for the island. I called on Mr. Carpenter, the British Consul, to whom I had a letter, and he made arrangements for my being admitted to the botanical gardens at six o'clock the next morning.
On my return to La Villa all the roues of the town were assembled at our hotel to eat ices and gamble: I joined them in the former but not in the latter amusement.