March 20.
When we pulled out of the Gascoyne this morning the first streak of dawn had not lit up the eastern horizon, we however managed by creeping along the southern shore to get out to sea, and there anchored until it was light enough to see the compass. I found a very heavy sea running outside and a strong breeze blowing from the southward; at this time however there was nothing which in my opinion rendered it too hazardous to risk the passage, more especially being pressed as we were by the want of food. The distance across to Bernier Island from the point of the main where we were was about ten miles further than it is from Dover to Calais. Our boats were in very bad repair, and the landing on the other side was by no means good. I therefore certainly would not have ventured to make the passage in a gale of wind; but the weather did not seem threatening and it had been for many successive days blowing as hard as it was when we started.
CAUGHT IN A GALE OF WIND.
We might have gone nine or ten miles when the wind suddenly increased, and ere we had made five more it had become a perfect gale and we were obliged to keep the boats close hauled, for had we run ever so little before the wind we should not have fetched Bernier Island, and consequently should have been blown right out to sea. We had nothing therefore now to do but to struggle for it, and to use every energy to save ourselves. Sea after sea broke into the boat but the water was as rapidly baled out: none could have behaved better than the crews of both boats did, and the whole scene was one of such constant, cheerful, and successful exertion that, great as our danger was, I do not recollect ever having a keener perception of the pleasure of excited feelings, or a more thorough revelry of joyous emotions, than I had during this perilous passage.
REACH BERNIER ISLAND.
Bernier Island at last rose in sight and amidst the giant waves we occasionally caught a peep of its rocky shores; but we were so tossed to and fro that it was only now and then that from the summit of some lofty sea we could sight a high shore which was not more than four or five miles from us. We had made the island about five miles from its northern extremity, and I ran along the shore until I found a convenient landing-place about a mile and a half to the south of our old one.
CHANGE IN THE LAND.
It was perfectly sheltered by reefs and an island, but it surprised me that I had not remarked this cove on my previous visit to the island, and I was still further astonished to see now three new small rocky islands, of which I had no recollection whatever. Indeed the men all for a long time stoutly denied that this was Bernier Island and, had we not now sighted Kok's Island, I should have doubted my skill in navigation and made up my mind that I had fallen into some strange error; but as it was forebodings shot across my wind as to what pranks the hurricane might have been playing upon the island, which consisted of nothing but loose sand heaped upon a bed of limestone rock of very unequal elevation.
I ran in my own boat upon a convenient point of the beach and the other boat followed in safety, for I did not like, in such foul weather, to leave them at anchor on a lee shore, which had previously proved so unsafe a position. A most awkward question now presented itself to my consideration: from the altered appearance of the coast I felt very considerable doubts as to the state in which the depot might be found; supposing anything had occurred to it I felt that it would be unadvisable that such a discovery should be made in the presence of many persons; as future discipline would in a great measure depend upon the first impression that was given. Who, then, had I better select for the purpose of visiting the depot in the first instance? After some deliberation I made choice of Mr. Smith and Corporal Coles, in the courage, disinterestedness, and self-possession of both of whom I placed great confidence. I directed Mr. Walker to see certain little alterations made in the boats before the men were allowed to straggle; these I knew would occupy them for some time and leave me therefore during this interval free to think and act according to circumstances. I now called Mr. Smith and Corporal Coles to accompany me, and told Coles to bring a spade with him.
DESTRUCTION OF THE DEPOT OF PROVISIONS. SYMPTOMS OF CALAMITY.