Photo A. I. I. Finch.
The Grenz Gipfel.
The Val Sesia from Monte Rosa.
Facing page 150.
Case and Max packed away their lanterns, and, redoubling our efforts, we set out at a furious pace across the ledge leading to the next icefall, the weakest point in which was a slope of, as near as we could judge, 70° in steepness and about one hundred and fifty feet high. At the first glance it appeared perpendicular, but it was just possible to stand in shallow steps and cut without having more than occasional recourse to handholds. Half-way up this exceptionally steep slope, an irregularity in the ice provided me with a safe footing, so that my companions were able to follow me up in the very skimpy steps with which I had been satisfied in the first instance. The remainder of the ascent of the ice wall was no less severe. Towards the top it became even steeper. Footholds and carefully cut handholds were necessary to enable us to reach the gentler slopes of the terrace above. The last icefall was clearly impassable except on its extreme right, close to where it adjoins the Marinelli Couloir. We had already realised this from our inspection from the Macugnaga Glacier two days ago.
Striking off in the direction of the Marinelli Couloir, we covered ground rapidly, though without gaining much height. On arriving at the very edge of the couloir, we discovered a steep slope of good snow, by means of which the formidable icefall was easily turned. Cutting up this slope, we arrived on the last terrace below the final bergschrund. The only likely bridge over this schrund lay, as we knew, almost under the Grenz Sattel. No time was lost in making for this point, and we raced up over the comparatively gentle slopes with a speed that must have astonished several parties who were warily descending the Zumstein Spitze towards the Grenz Sattel. These parties were none too careful in their climbing, and, before reaching the bergschrund, we were reduced to dodging stones which whizzed past us at an alarming rate. A most efficient snow bridge helped us across the schrund, and we proceeded to cut steps diagonally upwards towards the lowest rocks of the Grenz Gipfel, which lay about three hundred feet above. The snow soon gave out, and we were reduced once more to cutting in bare ice. We were still in considerable danger from falling stones which the sun was loosening in increasing numbers from the Grenz Gipfel. Numerous parties, spread out over the ridge leading from the Grenz Sattel to the Grenz Gipfel, also added their little contributions in this respect, in their eagerness to watch our advance. At 6.50 a.m. we grasped the warm rocks of the east ridge of the Grenz Gipfel, and, climbing on to a ledge, we felt, for the first time since leaving the Marinelli hut, that we were at last in safety. The ascent of the final ice slope had cost forty minutes. Our pace and the amount of step-cutting had been so stiff, that I was never so glad to take a rest. However, a few minutes worked wonders, and, after taking off our climbing irons and re-arranging ourselves into two parties, Max and Obexer being in one, and Case and myself taking the lead, we got busy with the last stage in the expedition—the steep rocks in front of us. We kept to the ridge itself, only occasionally traversing a few yards to the left. The rock is good, but the climbing is difficult and strenuous. The whole ridge seems to consist of overhanging steps, each about ten feet high and calling for plenty of arm work. By this time, however, we were anxious to see if we could not establish a record ascent from the point of view of time. Max and Obexer affected to take things more easily, and, shortly before we had attained the level of the Grenz Sattel, we parted.
Case shared my eagerness for speed, with the result that in less than two hours’ climbing we stood on the summit of the Grenz Gipfel (15,158 ft.). Ten minutes later, at 9.15 a.m., we were prospecting for a suitable place for a sun bath on the summit of the Dufour Spitze (15,217 ft.). We had taken just over eight hours from hut to summit. At a quarter to ten Max and Obexer arrived, and the day was won.
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