The Pasha was seated at one angle, and on our entering, put the Commodore at his left hand, which in these countries is the seat of honor; he received us sitting, but stood up when the Commodore rose to leave the room, which, I believe, is an unusual compliment. After the compliments usual on such occasions, coffee and sherbet were brought in by the attendants, but pipes were omitted. I was informed that, on the occasion of the recent introduction of an English traveller, some difficulty had arisen on this score; if I recollect right, the gentleman had declined the pipe, which was considered by the Pasha as an insult. At all events, since that time pipes have always been dispensed with at his interviews with foreigners.
The Commodore thanked him for the numerous instances of hospitality and kindness which we had experienced, and spoke in terms of admiration of his various improvements, to all which he made suitable answers; and expressing himself also in terms of strong friendship for our country, and hinting a desire for more intimate relations. He showed considerable knowledge of our institutions, and put many pertinent questions with regard to the productions of the country, our modes of cultivation, &c.; and expressed great surprise when the Commodore stated the size to which the coffee tree grows in the West Indies, it being in Egypt and Arabia only a shrub, which must be renewed every five or six years.
Mohammed Ali is about 60 or 65 years of age, about five feet eight inches in height, and heavy; though he can scarcely be called corpulent. His forehead is large and rough; the eyes gray and small, with a deep wrinkle running upward from the outer angle; they are very keen and restless; and I believe there was not one of our large party upon whom they were not repeatedly fixed during this interview. He converses with earnestness, and laughs frequently, but his laugh is discordant and unnatural. The nose is aquiline, the mouth depressed at the corners, and garnished with a superb silvery beard. The expression of his face when he smiles is rather pleasant; but at other times a person in his presence feels as he would do near an open barrel of gunpowder, with a shower of red-hot cinders falling around him.
SYRIA.
SYRIA.