The author, for reasons not necessary to be stated here, kept no journal during this cruise; but the events and scenes occurring in these visits made an impression so deep that the memory has kept a record of them sufficiently faithful. At the commencement of his attempt to put them on paper, he wrote to Commodore Patterson to ascertain whether such a design would meet with his approbation; and the Commodore, in a very kind letter in reply, was good enough to offer him the use of his own private journal and of his official letters. From these he has drawn much valuable statistical matter as well as hints on other subjects; and he takes this mode of publicly making his acknowledgments for the favor.
Through oversight, the year of these visits has not been mentioned in the body of the work; they were made in the year 1834.
INDEX.
| EGYPT. | |
| CHAPTER I. | |
| Approach to Egypt. Plague in Alexandria. Determination to visitCairo and the Pyramids. Boghaz Bey. Canal of Mahmoudieh.Policy of Mohammed Ali. The abject state of his subjects,and his apology for it. Night on the Canal. First view of theNile. Angelina’s opinion of it. | [Page 13] |
| CHAPTER II. | |
| Boats on the Nile. Our enjoyments on the river. Water of theNile. Villages. Ovens for hatching chickens. Egyptian bricks,and case of the Israelites. Singular costume of the females.Thievish boatmen. First view of the Pyramids. Stupendousundertaking of Mohammed Ali at the Barage. Approach toCairo. Moonlight scene. | [25] |
| CHAPTER III. | |
| Cross to Boulac. Splendid hospitality of the government. Ourcavalcade. Kindness of Mr. Gliddon. Description of his house.The Baldac. | [44] |
| CHAPTER IV. | |
| Visit to the Governor of Cairo. Court of the Mamelukes. Theirmassacre. Schools in the Citadel. Court of Justice. Palace ofthe Pasha. View from it. The “City of Tombs.” A humanmonster. Plain of Memphis. Heliopolis. Mosque of thebloody baptism. Joseph’s Well. Mint. Manufactory of Arms.The Citadel. “The Lions.” | [50] |
| CHAPTER V. | |
| Visit to the Cotton factories. Iron foundries. Palace of IbrahimPasha. English garden on an island in the Nile. Stables ofIbrahim Pasha. Arabian horses. Bazaars. Slave market.Madhouse. The maniac butcher. | [67] |
| CHAPTER VI. | |
| Preparations to visit the Pyramids. Audience of leave with theGovernor of Cairo. Visit of the ladies of our party to the Sultana.Description of the Harem. | [77] |
| CHAPTER VII. | |
| Visit to the Pyramids. Their diminutive appearance as we approached.Effect when we reached the base. Pyramid of Cheops.Visit to the interior. Pyramid of Cephrenes. Belzoni’s forcedpassage. His successful researches. Large stone enclosure eastof this Pyramid. Tombs adjoining on the west. Dine in one ofthem. | [84] |
| CHAPTER VIII. | |
| Some interesting facts in our own country in connexion with thesePyramids. Pyramids of Micocatl in Mexico, and of Quanhuahuacand Cholula. Their history. Notices of a deluge, and confusionof languages, in the picture writing of Mexico. Pyramidsin the Polynesian islands. “High Places” of Scripture. Templeof Belus. Universality of this kind of structure explained.Our western mounds. View from the Pyramids of Ghizeh. TheSphinx. Visit to the plain of Memphis, and to the Military andNaval School at Toura. | [96] |
| CHAPTER IX. | |
| Rest on the Sabbath. Visit to the Pasha’s summer residence atShubra. Exceeding beauty of the ground. Lake, and sports ofthe Pasha. Pic-nic in one of the Kiosks. Pear tree from thePasha’s place of nativity. Brief history of Mohammed Ali.Departure from Cairo. Regret at parting with Mr. Gliddon. | [112] |
| CHAPTER X. | |
| Return to Alexandria. Ruins about that city. Pompey’s pillar.Cleopatra’s needles. Modern improvements in Alexandria. Arsenal.Harbor of Alexandria. Rail road to Suez. New law forprotecting the people. Presentation to the Pasha. Descriptionof his person. | [119] |
| SYRIA. | |
| CHAPTER XI. | |
| First view of the coast of Judea. Anxieties as we approached.State of the Country. Recent Rebellion. Investment of Jerusalem.Character of the Natives. Earthquakes. Taking of theCity. English and American Missionaries. Death of Mrs.Thompson. Defeat of Ibrahim Pasha. Re-capture of the City.Conscription. Strange conduct of our Consul at Jaffa. He isdismissed from Office. Jaffa. Large clusters of Grapes. EasternStory-tellers. Gardens and Watermelons of Jaffa. The Cactus. | [129] |
| CHAPTER XII. | |
| Start for Jerusalem. Appearance of our Cavalcade. Djerid playnear Jaffa. Plain of Sharon. Night ride. Ramla. The Cadi’stheory about Earthquakes. Beth-Horon. Entrance to the Hill-Country.Aboo Ghoosh. David’s Brook. First view of Jerusalem.Difficulty in getting accommodations. Greek Monastery.Distressful night. | [146] |
| CHAPTER XIII. | |
| Morning view of the city. Glance at the localities. Question withregard to the place of the Crucifixion. Its practical nature. Sceneusually sketched in the mind. The event probably more humiliatingin its attendant circumstances. Traditions forced upon the visitorto Jerusalem. Their effect on the mind. Danger of such visitsto those who will not separate truth from error. “El DevotoPeregrino.” Dr. Clarke. | [167] |
| CHAPTER XIV. | |
| Localities in Jerusalem that are certain. Valley of Kedron. MountMoriah. Valley of the Cheesemongers. Mount Zion, its ancientlimits. Present remains of its northern boundary. Line of the“Old wall.” Acra. Gate of the Gardens. Limits of the city at thetime of the crucifixion. Bezetha and the wall of Agrippa. Monumentof John. Whither our judgment, unassisted by tradition,leads us as regards the place of the crucifixion. Rocky Knoll. Notcalled Mount Calvary in the Scriptures. Tradition. Conclusionto which all this leads us. Circumstances and scene of the crucifixion.The question with regard to the spot of our Saviour’sburial. | [179] |
| CHAPTER XV. | |
| Commencement of our visits. Hospital of the knights of St. John.Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Reputed tomb of the Saviour.Marble sarcophagus. Effect of this visit on us. Question whetherthis is the real tomb, or only a representation of it. Removalof the floor two centuries since. Greek chapel “the centreof the world.” Origin of the various incredible traditions.Charity to be exercised. Cave where the cross is said to havebeen discovered. Fissure in the rock. Tradition about the headof Adam. Calvary. Holes for the crosses. Another fissure inthe rock. The humiliation in the tomb, and resurrection. | [202] |
| CHAPTER XVI. | |
| Dimensions of the Modern City. Ground within the city, and inits environs. Its picturesque appearance. Continuation of ourvisits. Via Dolorosa. Sentence of the Saviour from Salignatius.House of Veronica and Picture of the Napkin. House of “theRich Man.” Arch of the Ecce Homo. Pilate’s House. Mosqueof Omar. The Locked-up Stone. Pool of Bethesda. Place ofStephen’s Martyrdom. The Golden Gate. The Emperor Heracliusin a dilemma. | [222] |
| CHAPTER XVII. | |
| Valley of Hinnom. Potter’s field. Singular properties attributedto its earth. Will not act on the citizens of Rome. Gloomycharacter of the valley. Job’s well. Pool of Siloam. Fountainof Siloam. Periodical in its flow. Stones and columns belongingprobably to the court of the ancient temple. Monuments ofZachariah and Absalom. Tomb of Jehoshaphat. Burial-placeof the Jews. Valley of Jehoshaphat. View of the Mount ofOlives, Plain of Jordan, and the Dead Sea. Garden of Gethsemane.Tomb of the Virgin. Tradition about her death andascension. | [233] |
| CHAPTER XVIII. | |
| Visit to the Mount of Olives to procure olive root. Cabinet workfrom it. Attempt, by a Fancy spell, to raise up again the ancientcity of Jerusalem. Its appearance. Fortifications. Towers.Royal palace. Stupendous wall supporting the Courts of theTemple. Outer Cloister. Solomon’s Porch. Court of the Gentiles.Inner Cloister. Gate called “Beautiful.” Court of the Jews.Court of the Priests. Altar. The TEMPLE. Its dazzlingfaçade. Noble entrance. Skill of the Architect. Vestibule.Grape-vine of Gold. The Sanctuary. Its furniture. Holy ofHolies. Effect of this place on Pompey. Walls of the edifice.Stones of amazing size. Frame work of the city. Villages andgardens around. Effect of the contrast between the Temple andMount of Olives. The millions coming up to the Passover.Their Hymns. The Roman army. Titus takes a view of thecity. Events foretelling its doom. The horror-stricken prophet. | [251] |
| CHAPTER XIX. | |
| Visit to Bethlehem. Well of the Star. Monastery of Elijah.Rachael’s Tomb. Plain of the Shepherds. Town of Bethlehem.Character of its inhabitants. Church and Cave of the Nativity.Traditions. The Turpentine Tree, &c. Manufactures of theBethlehemites. Tattooing. Country northward from Jerusalem.Cave of Jeremiah. Hill of Bezetha. Tombs of the Kings. Dr.Clarke’s subterranean Chapels. Ancient quarries. Tombs of theJudges. Thorn from which the Saviour’s crown is supposed to havebeen made. Difficulty at the Gates. Yaoub and the Soldiers. | [279] |
| CHAPTER XX. | |
| Departure of the first party. Mohammed Ali’s firman, and alarmof the Governor. Sickness of Mr. M. and Mr. Nicholayson.Trials of Missionaries. Their general character and qualifications.Moonlight view of Jerusalem, and reflections. Arrivalof the second party. Interview with the Governor. Visit to Bethany.Departure from Jerusalem. | [294] |
| CHAPTER XXI. | |
| Accident on our return. Visit to St. Jean D’Acre. Also to Tyre.Prophecies respecting Tyre fulfilled. Visit to Sidon. LadyHester Stanhope. Her letter of invitation to us. Visit to herresidence at D’joun. Beirout. Missionary families at Beirout.Striking feature in the Protestant Missionary operations. Theirschools and printing presses. | [308] |
| CHAPTER XXII. | |
| Party to Damascus. Ascent of Mount Lebanon. The roads.English carriage. Scenery of the mountain. Its inhabitants.Maronites. The Druses. Aaleih. Horns worn by the women.Princesses of the mountain. Beautiful night scene. Bhamdoon.Plain of Coelo-Syria. Anti-Lebanon. Characteristic of Americans.A dilemma. First view of Damascus. The great plain.Gardens. The city. “Street that is called Straight.” St. Paul. | [324] |
| CHAPTER XXIII. | |
| Late fanaticism of the people of Damascus. Change. Mr. Farrah’shouse. Agreeable disappointment. Costume of the natives.The Cobcob. Mr. Farran, the English Consul General. Visitto the palaces. Palaces of Abdallah Bey, &c. Official visit tothe Governor, Sheriff Pasha. Handsome reception. Promisesof the Pasha with respect to Americans in Syria. Mr. Farran’sbeautiful country residence. Bazaars. Damascus blades—notto be had. Departure from the city. Night at Mr. Farran’s. | [341] |
| CHAPTER XXIV. | |
| Sunrise on the plain of Damascus. Mountain Mosque. Superstitionof the natives of Damascus. Mountain course of the Barrady.Tomb of Abel. Fountain of Rosalyn. Toils of travel.Comforts on the road to Pompeii. Ruins of Balbec. The greatTemple and its courts. Stones of prodigious size. A gem in Architecture.The circular Temple. Gleanings with regard totheir history. Pasha of Balbec. Marshal Bourmont. Cedarsof Lebanon. Town of Zahle. Night in our tents on Lebanon.Attack by the natives. Return to the ship. | [360] |
| CHAPTER XXV. | |
| Sensation produced by the Delaware. Effect of this visit on thecause of Missions in Syria. Service on the Sabbath on board,and the crowds attending. Crowds attracted by this Ship duringher whole Cruise. Appearance of the Ship. Her effect on theVisitors. Progress of free principles throughout the World. Thecause of Humanity secure. Our own Country, and its Prosperity.Adieu to the reader. | [382] |
ERRATA.
The Reader is requested to make the following corrections: