After walking about a short time among the dull streets, we were glad to escape and get back to the ship. The commerce of Tyre now consists of tobacco, charcoal, and fagots;—what a contrast to former times!
A gentle breeze wafted us on towards Sidon, which being only fifteen miles distant, was soon distinctly in view; the bold and towering chain of Mount Lebanon forming a striking background to the picture. This mountain commences just above Tyre, and the greatness of that city in ancient times, was probably owing, in some measure, to the outlet afforded between the southern end of Lebanon and the mountains of Samaria, to the trade from the great plain of Damascus and the cities east of it. Sidon, called by the natives Seyd, is also a walled town, and is larger than Tyre, containing a population of about 8,000 persons; but its harbor is most wretched, and our boats were near being swamped in endeavoring to get in. A boat from the shore hastened out to assist us, as soon as they found we desired to land; and placing itself before the Commodore’s barge, guided us along the shallow and tortuous channel, alongside of which a heavy surf was rolling and breaking, and covering the water with foam.
After all we were poorly rewarded for our pains, unless it may be something to say that we have been at Sidon; for it is a poor miserable place. We desired, on entering the city, to be taken to whatever objects there might be of interest; and they immediately started off with us for “the gardens;” the concourse gathering fresh numbers as we advanced. So we proceeded out of the town, and up a hill, and then down; and there were the gardens, naked earth planted with mulberry trees and vegetables; a spot that would have delighted B——, our steward, had he been with us, but was not exactly to our present taste. I ought to do the place justice, however; for it appeared to be extremely fertile, and as far as our eye could reach down the side of the eminence, there was the deepest verdure, and a refreshing luxuriance of foliage. We returned to the town as soon as possible, as the sun was getting low, and walked around and through it, but without finding a single object worthy of note. The houses are generally low and mean looking, and it appears to be a place of few manufactures, and of little trade. Its rich and beautiful back country, however, gives it a decided preference over Tsour; and its population, I thought, looked as if they might be more comfortable. We have a consular agent here, also, whose kind offers of hospitality the shortness of our time compelled us to decline. On returning to the ship we filled away and stood for the city of Beirout, which lies about twenty miles to the northward of Sidon.
It had been our intention to call upon the celebrated Lady Hester Stanhope, who we were informed was living at Manlius, about four miles back of Sidon; but learning that she had changed her residence to D’joun, three miles further in the interior, we were forced by the lateness of the hour to relinquish our purpose. We met, however, at the consul’s, a person who had been connected with her household, and the Commodore requested him to inform her ladyship that we had landed with the wish to pay our respects to her, but had been prevented by the distance and want of time. Soon after our arrival at Beirout we received a very handsome and polite invitation to make her a visit; and as I find that she has excited considerable interest in our country, I will give the letter as the best mode of presenting her to the reader.
To the American Admiral, Officers, and Ladies, who did me the honor to inquire after me.
D’joun, 31st Aug., 1834.
You all ought to know how much I love and respect the American nation. If the individuals did not command by their merit these sentiments, I must naturally inherit them from my grandfather.[74] I should be too happy to invite to D’joun the whole of the party; but my premises will not admit of their being comfortable. My house is in a dilapidated state. My thoughts, as well as my finances, for these last three years, have been wholly dedicated to one object—that of the relief of the unhappy persons, which the situation of the country increases every day. The body of the house at this moment can only contain me, very ill lodged; and all I have at my disposal, is two pretty good rooms in a court, or rather a small garden, dedicated to strangers alone, that might lodge pretty comfortably, the Admiral and three other gentlemen. I could not well propose it to ladies, being a place which, from its public situation, I never frequent. But should the Admiral’s lady and her daughters wish to see something of the surrounding country, I offer them Manlius, where, however, there is only one room furnished. The house is only inhabited by an old woman and a servant; but by bringing their travelling beds and their cook, they might be more comfortable than in any other house in the neighborhood. I can also furnish them with a very civil old man, known to Mr. Guys, called Lewis Marson, who can talk French, and who is very capable of attending to all their little wants.
I send Mr. Bertrand with this letter, that he may further explain about the houses, or answer any other questions relative to them, and to bring me your decision upon the subject.
I very cordially salute you all.
