CHAPTER XXIII.
Late fanaticism of the people of Damascus. Change. Mr. Farrah’s house. Agreeable disappointment. Costume of the natives. The Cobcob. Mr. Farran, the English Consul General. Visit to the palaces. Palaces of Abdallah Bey, &c. Official visit to the Governor, Sheriff Pasha. Handsome reception. Promises of the Pasha with respect to Americans in Syria. Mr. Farran’s beautiful country residence. Bazaars. Damascus blades—not to be had. Departure from the city. Night at Mr. Farran’s.
Having rested by a stream at the edge of the gardens till our straggling party had all come up, we passed on, and entering one of the city gates, were soon in a labyrinth of bazaars and narrow streets. Our large cavalcade attracted considerable attention as we rode unceremoniously along, our baggage mules frequently brushing the natives and forcing for themselves a wide passage amid the crowds. Many looks of dark and angry import were turned upon us, but no one offered any molestation; and with the exception of their scowling looks, they were sufficiently respectful. It was only about a year before this that De La Martine, on approaching the city, found it advisable to stop at one of the neighboring villages, and change his European for the Turkish dress. The iron hand of the Egyptian Pasha, wherever it lights, makes itself felt. It is now as safe to travel in Egypt as in our own country; and will soon be so in Palestine, and also about Damascus, which, until quite lately, was, and indeed probably still is, one of the most fanatical cities in the world. In this city there has already been a surprising change. During our visit we went freely among the bazaars, sometimes all in company, and sometimes in small parties or singly; and though attracting such crowds that the streets were often actually blocked up, and it was difficult for the citizens to get along, all were respectful; nor, as far as we know, was even an opprobrious epithet ever used.
The Armenian gentleman who had been our companion in the journey, had offered the hospitality of his house, and now led us on through the city for nearly a mile, when at length we came to a stand. We were in a street, narrow like all the rest, (the bazaars excepted,) and alongside of a house that seemed to give promise of nothing but poverty. Its exterior was rough and coarse; and the walls bulging out here and there, looked as if waiting to tumble on our heads and crush us, rather than to give us shelter. We entered by a low narrow door into a passage, also narrow and dark; and great indeed was our surprise at the scene which broke upon us when we reached its further end. We afterwards visited all the celebrated palaces of the city, and found the exterior of all of them of a character similar to this. On the outside they are coarse and wretched looking buildings, seemingly ready to crumble and fall to pieces; and the appearance of poverty is probably intentional, in order to save the inmates from the exactions of an arbitrary and oppressive government. But for this, ample amends are made in the interior.
The edifice into which we were now introduced formed a hollow square; the open space within being occupied by a court, about fifty feet by forty, all paved with variegated marbles. In the centre of this was a square fountain, fourteen or fifteen feet on each side, and rising about two feet above the pavement. It was filled with gold and silver fishes, and was lined all around with vases or pots with flowers. At the further end of the court, the pavement rose, and here was a recess occupying nearly the whole width of the court, and about ten feet in depth. It was fronted by a lofty pointed arch, richly ornamented with arabesques cut in stone, or painted in a great variety of gay colors. The back and sides of the recess were enriched in a similar manner, every part of them being covered either with arabesques or with parallel stripes of gay colors, either in horizontal, or in zigzag or waving lines. I must except one or two compartments or raised pannels on each side, with rich borders to them; the pannels were occupied by stanzas of Arabic poetry in large letters, either cut into relief, or done with paint. At the back of the recess was a broad luxurious ottoman.
This lofty and magnificent recess, whose effect, apparently unstudied, is yet very striking, meets us at once on emerging from the dark passage, and gives us our first impression of the building; but as we advance towards it a new candidate for our admiration is presented on our left. Just before reaching the angle of the court which adjoins the recess, we come to a door-way, which is ornamented, but has no very remarkable pretensions; but as we approach, the fall of water arrests our attention and invites us to enter; and on doing so our eagerness to take possession of the lofty cool recess is suddenly checked. This room is not very large, its dimensions being altogether about fifteen feet by twenty-five; and the light is permitted to enter only in sufficient quantity to make objects distinct. A short distance within the door is a circular marble fountain, from the centre of which a few streaks of water ascend up into the air, and breaking at the top, fall in a constant shower of gems, creating a delightful coolness, and a noise just sufficient to lull one to repose. The floor here is of tesselated marbles; on each side are marble slabs attached to the wall, supporting China vases and other bijouderie of a similar substance. In the window is a salver containing sherbet and confectionary, where any person may help himself whenever his inclinations prompt, the supply being constant but without parade. About ten feet from the door the floor suddenly ascends about eighteen inches, and now it is covered with the brilliant and soft carpet of Turkey or Persia; while quite around the recess thus formed runs a broad ottoman, yet softer and more luxurious than that of the open court. The walls of this chamber are quite covered with arabesques, in stucco, or painted in various colors, among which is also interspersed Arabic poetry. The ceiling is lofty, and is of wood formed into small compartments, usually arabesque patterns, the bottom of the pannels being often composed of mirrors. The wood itself is colored so as to resemble japanned work of brilliant colors.
This description will give the reader a general idea of these two apartments. I am afraid to venture on a more minute description of them, as his mind would only be burdened if I should attempt to give in detail all the ornaments, the projecting cornice in the Saracenic architecture, and the great variety of patterns and colors that decked the sides and ceiling both of the small retired chamber or of the large recess.
The stone walls of the open court were ornamented all around with patterns, sometimes cut in the stone, but usually in paint of brilliant colors,—red, blue, white, and yellow, being those chiefly employed. Sometimes these were put on in horizontal stripes three or four inches wide; sometimes in waving or zigzag lines, and sometimes in interlacing circles; here and there a pannel of fanciful arabesque is introduced. A person is very much struck with the exuberance of the eastern fancy in these patterns, scarcely any two of them being alike; they are generally in excellent taste.