Our attention was first directed to the most perfect of the temples; but, as we entered at the wrong end of the structures, and soon got our ideas confused amid the masses of ruins, I believe the reader would rather be excused from accompanying us; so I will first state their appearance in ancient times, when there was great regularity and symmetry in them, and then describe them as they are at present.
They stood, then, on an artificial platform of stone, raised on the plain of Coelo-Syria to a height varying, according to the inequalities of the plain, from thirty to forty feet. This was about half a mile from the chain of Anti-Libanus. The platform was adapted in shape to the structures upon it, the complete length being 900 feet and the greatest width about 420. The entrance was from the east. At that end was a flight of about fifty steps, 180 feet in length: at the top of this was a range of twelve columns, each fifty-one inches in diameter, with an interval of nine and a half feet between. The visitor was admitted between them into a covered vestibule, 250 feet in length by 36 in width; this was adorned at the extremities with square columns, while the side opposite to him was ornamented with semi-columns, and also with niches, and, above these, with tabernacles; both the latter being occupied by statues. Crossing this vestibule, he might leave it either by a large central passage or by a smaller one at each side of this, and would then find himself in an open hexagonal court, 150 feet wide and 200 at its greatest length. This court had at its sides, on his right and left, four exedrae, or chambers for schools, open in front, and ornamented each with four columns and pilasters: the intervals between these were taken up with chambers for the high priests and with niches for statues. The whole court was thus surrounded by columns and pilasters, except in the front. In this part was a passage 78 feet wide, with two side passages, giving admittance into the great court of the temple. This court was 380 feet square, and, except in the front and at the entrance, was surrounded by square exedrae, alternating with others of a semi-circular shape: the former had each four columns and two pilasters, and the latter two columns with pilasters at their front. At the entrance into this court were colossal niches, and at the angles were chambers for the priests.
The great temple, which stood at the further end of this court, and facing the visitor as he entered, was 200 feet long by 160 in width. It had ten columns at each end, and nineteen at each of the sides;[77] they were seven feet in diameter, and the details of the whole edifice were of the same colossal proportions: they allowed eight feet ten inches for the intervals between the columns. There are still remaining three rows of stones, supporting the platform on which this temple stands, which are of remarkable dimensions. In the lowest tier they measure severally 35, 33, 32, 31, and 38 feet in length; with a height of thirteen feet and a breadth of ten feet five inches, exclusive of their mouldings. In the second row, which is twenty-seven feet from the ground, they are generally of the same size, but here are three measuring 64, 64, and 63 feet in length, with their other dimensions to correspond. In the quarry on the side of the mountain adjoining this, is a stone cut loose, that measures seventy feet in length by fourteen in width, and fourteen feet five inches in depth: the weight of this is estimated at 1,135 tons.
Of this colossal temple, nine of the columns of one side, with a portion of their entablature, are all that now remains: its foundations may still be traced, and a few huge fragments are scattered about; but if it was ever completed, it has served as a quarry for more modern structures, perhaps for some that were erected by Constantine, for its area and the environs are pretty well cleared: but the great columns, standing thus naked and alone, produce a very powerful effect. Of the ranges of exedrae, columns, &c., which formed the sides of the square and hexagonal courts, and of the vestibule, there are still large remains; but so broken and defaced by time and human violence, that it is often difficult to ascertain their shape or proportions. The ground is covered over with their ruins. In one corner of the square court are some large columns of the red Egyptian granite: they are of peculiar beauty, and though they have been exposed to the weather for so many centuries, their polish has scarcely been at all affected.
It is sad to walk over this great platform and mark the desolations that have been wrought amid such architectural beauty. A few yards, however, from this is a temple of the same age, still almost perfect, and probably the most splendid specimen of the Corinthian order of architecture that the world now can boast. It stands also on a platform of stone, and was reached by a stair-way of thirty-two steps: it is about twenty-five feet from the south-west angle of the great court just described, and also faces the east. It is peripteral; that is, with a range of columns quite around, and has also another range at the front, forming a vestibule: the length is 280 feet, the breadth 122. There were fifteen columns on each side and eight in front (the angular columns counted twice), or forty-two in all; to which we are to add eight for the vestibule, six in front and one at each side. Of these, thirty-three are now entire and erect, and nine in a ruinous condition; the eight front columns are missing, but those of the vestibule remain. The sides of the interior were also ornamented with half columns, six on each side; between these were niches for statues, with ornamented lacunari (arched coverings), and above the niches were tabernacles, also for statues. The further end was occupied by a platform, reached by a broad flight of fifteen steps, and on this was placed the statue of their divinity. The interior is also in tolerably good preservation. This temple belongs to the florid age of architecture; its ornaments are exuberant and exceedingly rich; the doorway is decorated with vines and foliage, amid which children are sporting; the pannels of the ceiling are occupied by figures of gods and goddesses in relief; in short, Sculpture has here joined her graver sister Architecture, and they have worked together harmoniously, and have produced—what is very seldom produced—a building where great exuberance of ornament is united with delicacy, and chasteness, and simplicity. This building is, indeed, a gem in the art.
South-eastward from these, at the distance of about 300 yards, is a pretty little thing, though of more objectionable taste. It is a temple, circular within, the diameter being thirty-two feet. It is on an ornamented platform or substructure, and the floor was reached by a flight of about fifteen steps; the front presents this flight of steps and a large door-way, with two Corinthian columns at each side. The rest of the exterior is formed by a succession of great niches for statues, five in number, with a Corinthian column at the sharp angles between them. The exterior diameter of the building, from column to column, is sixty-four feet. The interior is highly ornamented, and has a double range of semi-columns one above the other, one range Ionic, the other Corinthian. This little temple answers very well by way of variety, and for employing the power of contrast; and is placed just at the proper distance from the other colossal structures to make the effect very good. Winding around its foundations, and murmuring amid its broken, prostrate columns, is the clear brook from the fountain of Rosalyn. As we listened to the sound of its waters, we could almost imagine it to be the voice of pure and holy Nature chanting the dirge of the unhallowed worship that once was prevalent here.
It is very strange that, in order to learn the origin and design of these splendid structures we are compelled to turn over a variety of ancient books; and that, after all, the information we glean is sufficient only to tantalize, and not to satisfy our curiosity. Its whole amount, I believe to be as follows:
Macrobius informs us that
“In the city called Heliopolis[78] the Assyrians worship the Sun with great pomp, under the name of Heliopolitan Jove; and the statue of this god was brought from a city in Egypt, also called Heliopolis, when Senemur or Senepos reigned over the Egyptians, by Opias, ambassador of Delebon, king of the Assyrians, together with some Egyptian priests, of whom Partemetis was the chief; and it remained long among the Assyrians before it was removed to Heliopolis.... The statue is of gold, representing a person without a beard, who holds in his right hand a whip, charioteer-like, and in his left a thunderbolt, together with ears of corn; all which mark the united powers of Jupiter and the Sun.”
From this he infers that the divinity was both Jupiter and the Sun: he adds that the temple excelled in divination, and that Trajan consulted it about his Parthian expedition. Macrob. Saternalia, lib. 1.