There is a set of natives on this mountain, the most thievish beings in all the country, with the reputation also of being blood-thirsty and merciless, and waiting to pounce upon every unprotected traveller that may come in their way. They are a small race, but are said to be numerous; and the traveller across these mountains must be on his guard, or he will be very apt to be plundered by them. They carry a concealed dagger, with which they are very expert, and which they do not hesitate to use when there is occasion for it. They are cowardly, and seldom make their attacks except in covert places or by night: and their cunning and malevolence are said to be equal to their cowardice. We had met them occasionally, and had generally been on our guard; but there seemed to be no particular danger this night, and we took no unusual precautions.
But they were lying here in ambush; and we had scarcely blown out our lights, and wrapped ourselves in our blankets for repose, when they made a sudden attack—how many there were, we could not tell in the darkness, but their number must have been very great. We sprung up, and seizing such weapons as were handiest, repelled our assailants, and forced them to a speedy retreat; but not before several wounds had been given and received. I think it probable that some of the enemy were killed. And now we sat down to consult upon the best mode of preventing another attack. Some advised shifting our encampment; some concluded to sit up; and others, amid the confusion of counsel, again yielded to drowsiness, and tried once more to seek repose. But hope of repose was vain: we carried on a skirmishing with them all night, and, notwithstanding our resistance, many of the enemy in the dark succeeded in carrying off the plunder, which was their object.
I should certainly caution all travellers over Mount Lebanon against pitching their tents, as we had done, in an old stubble field swarming with fleas.
As may be supposed, we made an early start on the morrow. Our journey back offered nothing new, and after stopping to pay our respects to Mr. and Mrs. Smith, and to thank them for their kindness, we picked our way down the mountain, and towards evening took up, once more, our quarters in the Delaware.
CHAPTER XXV.
Sensation produced by the Delaware. Effect of this visit on the cause of Missions in Syria. Service on the Sabbath on board, and the crowds attending. Crowds attracted by this ship during her whole cruise. Appearance of the ship. Her effect on the visitors. Progress of free principles throughout the world. The cause of humanity secure. Our own Country, and its prosperity. Adieu to the reader.
We found, that during our absence the ship, having taken in water, had changed her anchorage, and was now lying abreast of the city, and but a short distance off. A vessel of her class had never appeared along this part of the coast before; and on her arrival she immediately began to attract observation. A few of the citizens visited her, and found no difficulty in getting admittance on board: they carried news of this to the shore; other visitors came; her fame soon spread far and wide; and in a short time she was all the rage. Mr. Chassaud’s house was thronged by applicants for tickets of admission (the impression having gone abroad that they were useful), and the street to it was so crowded, that it was often difficult to get along. He computed the number who visited the ship here at 40,000; but, although this was perhaps above the reality, it was still prodigious. Some persons came two days’ journey simply for this purpose; and the city was thronged to such a degree, that provisions rose to double their former price. They came, old men, women and children, Druses and Mahommedans, princes and laborers: all seemed to be seized by the mania; and, until the day of our leaving (the 11th of September), there was a constant throng from early in the morning till dusk. Such a sensation had probably never been produced here before by any object of curiosity.
I believe our visit has been beneficial to the interesting mission at this place. Mr. Bird, at my request, preached on board on the first Sunday of our stay here, and Mr. Smith on the second; and during the latter service, the visitors from shore were suffered to be present. Generally, visiting was not permitted on the Sabbath till public worship had been concluded; but on this occasion they were admitted, and allowed to stay; and when the crew were called up to worship, they came up also to witness the services. Our upper deck has a clear sweep of 225 feet in length: the whole is covered by an awning, elevated twelve or fifteen feet, with side pieces of canvass reaching down to the hammock-cloths, and thus forming a complete chamber. The poop-deck, on this occasion, is occupied chiefly by the band in their uniform: the officers stand by the capstan, and from this aft, on the starboard side: the larboard side is occupied, in front, by the ship’s boys, with prayer-books; then by the marines in full uniform; and, back of these, by the seamen, who also stretch along by the mainmast on either side. All are in their “first best” clothes; and our ship on these occasions presents an air of thorough cleanliness and neatness which, I do not hesitate to say, I have never yet seen a church on shore present. Mr. Smith’s discourse was suited to the occasion, and was listened to by officers and seamen with deep interest; and I have no doubt that the scene made an impression on the minds of the mountaineers which will materially advance the success of the mission.