I is a homemade pipe jointer or clay roll for use in pouring molten lead. A strand of jute long enough to encircle the pipe and the ends to fold back, leaving an opening at the top, is covered with clay moistened, rolled and worked to form a plastic rope about 1 inch in diameter. The jointer gives the very best results but must be frequently moistened and worked to keep the clay soft and pliable. The jointer shown in F is frequently used for pouring lead joints.
Obstructions in house sewers are frequent. Among the causes are broken pipes, grade insufficient to give cleansing velocities, newspaper, rags, garbage, or other solids in the sewage, congealing of grease in pipes and main running traps (house sewer traps), and poor joint construction whereby rootlets grow into the sewer and choke it. Good grade and good construction with particular care given to the joints, will avert or lessen these troubles. The sewer should be perfectly straight, with the interior of the joints scraped or swabbed smooth. When the joint-filling material has set, the hollows beneath the hubs should be filled with good earth free of stones, well tamped or puddled in place. It is important that like material be used at the sides of the pipe and above it for at least 1 foot. The back filling may be completed with scraper or plow. No running trap should be placed on the house sewer, because it is liable to become obstructed and it prevents free movement of air through the sewer and soil stack. Conductors or drains for rain or other clean water should never connect with the house sewer, but should discharge into a watercourse or other outlet.
Where obstruction of a house sewer occurs, use of some of the simple tools shown in [Figure 20] may remedy the trouble. It is not likely that farmers will have these appliances, except possibly some of the augers; but some of them can be made at home or by a blacksmith, and most of them should be obtainable for temporary use from a well-organized town or city sewer department. The purpose of the several tools shown is indicated in the notation.
The tank.—The septic tank should be in an isolated location at least 50 to 100 feet from any dwelling. This is not always possible, because of flat ground, but in many such instances reasonable distance and fall may be secured by raising both the house sewer and tank and embanking them with earth. Cases are known where tanks adjoin cellar or basement walls and the top of the tank is used as a doorstep; in other cases tanks have been constructed within buildings. Such practices are bad. It is difficult to construct an absolutely water-tight masonry tank, and still more difficult to make it proof against the passage of sewer odors.
Fig. 20.—Sewer-cleaning tools—how to use them. A, Ordinary 1½ or 2 inch auger welded to a piece 1¾-inch extra strong wrought pipe about 5 feet long: the stem is lengthened by adding other pieces of pipe with screw couplings, and is fitted with a pipe handle; all cleaning work should proceed upstream; B, twist or open earth auger; C, ribbon or closed earth auger; D, spiral or coal auger; E, ship auger; F, root cutter; G, sewer rods, with hook coupling, usually of hickory or ash 1 or 1¼ inches in diameter and 3 or 4 feet long; H, gouge for cutting obstructions; I, scoop for removing sand or similar material; J, claw, and K, screw, for removing paper and rags; L, scraper; M, wire brush for removing grease, drawn back and forth with a wire or rope; N, homemade wire brush (for a 5-inch sewer use a 1½-inch wooden pole to which is securely tacked a piece of heavy rubber, canvas, or leather belting or harness leather 5½ by 8 inches, spirally studded, as shown, with ordinary wire nails 1½ inches in length)
In Northern States, particularly in exposed situations, it is desirable to have the top of the tank 1 to 2 feet underground, thus promoting warmth and uniformity of temperature in the sewage. In Southern States this feature is less important, and the top of the tank may be flush with the ground. Every tank should be tightly covered, for the reasons above stated and to guard against the spread of odors, the transmission of disease germs by flies, and accidents to children.
Considerable latitude is allowable in the design and construction of septic tanks. No particular shape or exact dimensions can be presented for a given number of people. One family of 5 persons may use as much water as another family of 10 persons; hence the quantity of sewage rather than the number of persons is the better basis of design. Exact dimensions are not requisite, for settlement and septicization proceed whether the sewage is held a few hours more or a few hours less. As to materials of construction, some form of masonry, either brick, building tile, rubble, concrete, or cement block, is employed generally. Vitrified pipe, steel, and wood have been used occasionally.
Fig. 21.—One-chamber septic tank—does nothing more than a tight cesspool. Brick construction, heavily plastered inside; size suitable for 180 to 280 gallons of sewage daily (nominally 4 to 7 persons)