I may here observe, that Lower Canada, embracing and including Montreal to the Gulf, about 400 miles down, has a population of from 600,000 to 700,000: Quebec and its suburbs has about 30,000. The vessels resorting to this port are about 1000 during the short season of five months. Quebec is situated on the north-west side of the St. Lawrence, with the River St. Charles on the north. The volume and depth of the St. Lawrence is unequalled: it moves with a speed of three or four miles an hour. The oceanic influence is great. To-day it is 30° below zero, and in the summer it is sometimes 100° above (Fahrenheit's scale).
We returned to the Plains of Abraham, where Wolfe fell, and a paltry monument is erected. This is a fine view. Near this is the cove where General Wolfe and the British troops crept and scrambled up to the summit of the heights, which resulted in the defeat of Montcalm in 1759, and the prostration of French power in Canada.
Monday morning.—Attended to business till one. Then took a drive to see the Indian village of Lorette. The squaws are not to my mind, although admired by others. The men get their living by hunting racoons, &c. They make beautiful work, some of which we bought, and returned. I had a beautiful drive on the St. Foy Road; quite in the English style—both houses, fields, gardens, and stables; decidedly the prettiest drive since I left England. I observed all the windows were double, and double doors, as the snow remains on the ground for six months together. To the Exchange and Library, where we had free access. The inclined plane leading to the citadel is 500 feet. On the top of the bastion is a covered way and gravel walk, with cannon pointing in every direction. Here is a fine view of the harbour and surrounding panorama. Within the citadel are the magazines, armoury, storehouses, &c., and the messrooms and barracks for the officers, covered with tin. This fortress combines every invention of science and precaution of art that consummate skill and ingenuity could suggest, for the protection and security of the city and garrison; and I should say the D—-l could not force it. The area of the space and works within is forty acres. The fortifications are continued all round the upper town, in bastions and solid masonry, and ramparts from 25 to 30 feet high, and of equal thickness, bristling with heavy cannon. There is a beautiful esplanade, or public promenade, which is much frequented. The guard are very strict, owing to Americans prying about very suspiciously at times.
Tuesday morning.—Finished my business satisfactorily. We visited the old Parliament-house, now a library and museum. There is also the French Roman Catholic cathedral in the Marketplace, and the English cathedral. The monument to Wolfe and Montcalm, the most noble general France ever had,—
Mortem virtus communem;
Famam historia;
Monumentum posteritas dedit.
or—
Valour gave a common death;
History a common fame;
Posterity a common monument.
is situated on the west side of Des Carriere's-street, leading from the Place d'Armes to the glacis of Cape Diamond. In front is a broad walk overlooking the Castle-gardens, the harbour, and the shore of Orleans. We had not time to visit the Chaudiere Falls, but took the fine steamer Montreal, and found ourselves at Montreal at seven on Wednesday morning, where we sojourned Tetue's Hotel, being sickened of the Exchange, at as they wanted to rob us. Attended to business all day, and had Mr. Kidson (Glasgow), Mr. Redpath, Mr. Hall, Mr. Easton, and Mr. A. M'Farlane to dinner.
Thursday.—At business all day. Rained incessantly. Dined with Mr. Geddes, who treated me like a prince. He has a nice wife and an amiable family. Supped and spent the evening with Mr. and Mrs. Leeming, and appointed him our agent for the retail trade. Home, and to bed, and had a good night's rest.
Friday.—Rained incessantly. Found the benefit of my new rig-out of flannel and India-rubber boots. Visited the House of Assembly. The Speaker, my kind friend Mr. Cuvillier, had given me an order. He has £1000 a year, and the representatives two dollars a day. The Legislative Council Chamber is worth seeing. I spent the evening with Mr. Rickards. I finished up the most satisfactory business I had done in any town since I left home. Montreal is very flourishing—the metropolis of Canada—and will double its population, now 50,000, ere long, if Sir Charles Metcalfe is supported; but the French Canadians, and the Irish, who abound, led by their priests, are brewing dissatisfaction and discord. His councillors have just resigned, and a general election is taking place. May he succeed is my earnest wish!