A Guide to Peterborough Cathedral / Comprising a brief history of the monastery from its foundation to the present time, with a descriptive account of its architectural peculiarities and recent improvements; compiled from the works of Gunton, Britton, and original & authentic documents

by George S. Phillips

Having in the preceding chapters given a brief history of the former monastery and present cathedral of Peterborough, up to the present time, it now remains for us to say something of its architectural peculiarities, and to notice some of the remarkable relicts of antiquity which are still to be found within its walls. It has already been stated, that in the year 655, the foundation for a monastic institution was laid at Medeshamstede; that it was completed seven years afterwards;—and was destroyed by fire in 870. The architectural character of the building at this period cannot be strictly ascertained; but, from the accounts given of it by monkish writers, it is supposed to have been of the pure Saxon style. The monastery was again re-built in 966, and again destroyed by the lawless hands of barbarian invaders. Five successive times did it undergo various changes of ruin and desolation, until the year 1117, when a new building was raised upon the foundations of the old one, and many additions were made to it;—extending its circuit, and improving its architectural appearance.

The immense stones which were laid as the foundation of the minster of Medeshamstede, is a sufficient proof of the vastness and massive strength of the building which was raised upon it;[25] ] —yet, as we have no definite information respecting the size of the monastery, we must leave it to be imagined by the reader, and proceed with the "new church," which was commenced in 1117, under the rule of John de Sais, and which we have already noticed in the first chapter of our history.

This John was a Norman by birth, and an admirer of the Norman style of architecture, which is discernable throughout the whole of this great building. That there is a mixture of style, however, in the monastery, is admitted on all hands;—nor could it well have been otherwise, if we take into consideration the different character of the ages in which additions were made to it. Still the leading features of the building clearly show that they are of Norman origin; and in this opinion we are supported by Mr. Britton, who says, "I cannot consent to discontinue this phrase, [viz. that the cathedral is a specimen of Norman architecture,] although it offends certain critics, who manifest more prejudice than discrimination in their reprobatory animadversion. That the Normans not only employed a peculiar style and character in the buildings of their own provence, and in England, after they possessed this country, is sufficiently proved by history, by the older edifices still remaining, and by the admission of the best informed antiquaries. It seems to me therefore absurd, as well as false, to say there is no Norman architecture—that the term is misapplied,—that the Normans were incompetent either to invent a novelty in art, or improve upon any thing of their Saxon predecessors. The instance of the building before us, which is said by its monastic historians to have been raised between the years 1117 and 1250, is sufficient evidence to confute the reasoning, or rather dogmatic assertions, of those who wish to exalt the Saxons by depreciating the Normans: and we have a still stronger confutation of this theory in the style and general character of the Trinity chapel, Canterbury, the history of which is well authenticated and generally credited. That it is a novelty and great beauty in architecture can only be disputed by those who are blinded by prejudice, or influenced by obstinacy and bad taste."[26] ]

During the prelacy of Bishop Marsh, 1819-1839, great efforts were made to restore the cathedral to its original beauty, under the auspices of Dr. Monk, then Dean of Peterborough, and afterwards Bishop of Gloucester. "By him the noble west front, which he found in a very ruinous state, was perfectly restored from top to bottom; six-and-thirty windows were opened in various parts of the church, which were built up, and two Norman doors were brought to light, which had been hidden under mean depressed arches."

It may, perhaps, be desirable to describe the different portions of the building in the order in which they present themselves to the visitor, and in doing this, we shall avail ourselves of the excellent remarks made by the Rev. Owen Davys, son of bishop Davys, in his work on the cathedral, and also of the superior talent of a gentleman, formerly well known in this city, (the Rev. T. Garbett,) who has investigated, with great care, the whole plan of the building, and has laid the result of his researches before the public.

Western Gateway.

First, then, is the ancient western gateway, built by Benedict, and though it has since been much altered, a considerable part of the original structure remains: "The western side has been faced with Perpendicular work, and an arch of that character has been built in front of the original Norman arch, above which is a very elegant arcade, the alternate arches of which have small windows within them; these light the chamber over the gateway which occupies the situation of the chapel of St. Nicholas. The lower roof of this gateway is a good specimen of a plain Norman roof, being groined with bold cross ribs. The arcades on the right and left hand, which have lately been very judiciously restored, are also worthy of notice; one of the arches in each arcade is considerably larger than the others, and forms a door-way. Above the arch, on the east side of this gateway, is a window which may strike the architect at first sight as being somewhat peculiar. It is in reality a part of an ancient Perpendicular shrine, which formerly existed in the cathedral, of which a portion is still standing in the northern part of the new building; it was brought there, and turned to its present use as a window, some time ago."

Thomas à Becket's Chapel.

On the left hand, as we pass through the gate, is the grammar school-room, formerly the chapel of Thomas à Becket, who was assassinated at Canterbury, and canonized by the catholics as a saint and a martyr. "The chancel of this building is of a very Late Decorated character, in fact so late as almost to come under the denomination of Transition from that style to Perpendicular; it has, on the south side, two windows, each of three lights, which appear, at first sight, to be Decorated, but, upon further examination, the architectural student will perceive, by a tendency to right lines in the tracery, that they are of Transition character, of which they form good examples. The east window of this chancel is a very good one, it is of five lights, and the tracery is very beautiful, though of a description not at all uncommon; in fact most of the Decorated windows in parish churches throughout Northamptonshire, which have any pretensions to size or beauty, have their tracery of this form, as, for instance, the east window of Higham Ferrers church, and many others. Above this window is an elegant pierced cross, probably of the same date as the window itself. The parapet of this chancel has nothing worthy of notice about it; it is like the rest of the building, of plain Late Decorated character."

Palace Gateway.