The churches, with the buildings attached, gardens, &c. occupy a great extent of ground; particularly those of St. Juan and Catalina, which were erected at a time when religious enthusiasm was at its height.
The Theatre, as an edifice, has nothing to boast. The exterior looks like a stable; but the interior is better than the outside promises. It has been much improved since my arrival. They sadly want a new theatre. There is a plot of ground near the Plaza just adapted for it: but unless the government take it in hand, the public spirit of individuals, I fear, will not; and yet, with a people so theatrically inclined, it is somewhat surprising. Almost the first inquiry of a foreigner is of the Theatre: at present, they smile at its insignificance.
The pit is large, extending a considerable length from the stage, with backs to the seats, and partitions to each, which serve as a rest for the arms: they are numbered, and let out under the appellation of “lunetas;” every person proceeding to his own seat; thus the crowding and fighting, for places, so common in our theatres, is avoided. No females are admitted into the pit.
In the dress circle, some blue silk spread over the panels of the boxes is all that distinguishes it from the others.
The dress boxes will contain about eight persons each. As they have not any seats affixed to them, those who engage them send chairs; or the theatre will supply them, by paying a trifle for their use. The price of a box, for a night’s performance, is three dollars. These boxes, and, indeed, places for every other part of the house, may be taken for a certain period called a “function,” which lasts ten nights. Many families engage their boxes this way, which makes them come reasonable.
Under the dress circle, and even with the pit, are boxes called palcos, at 2½ dollars per night.
The cazuela, or gallery, is similar to the one at Astley’s, except that it is not so large. It is appropriated to females alone. The keeping females thus crowded together in a theatre, and separated from their natural protectors, seems an abominable practice. A stranger is apt to form erroneous opinions of the fair occupants of the cazuela, and can scarcely believe that the most respectable are to be found there: but it is so; and husbands, brothers, and friends, wait for them at the gallery door. This custom, it is said, they inherit from the Moors. The goddesses of the cazuela behave in the most orderly manner; much more so, I suspect, than my countrywomen would, similarly situated.
Over the stage is inscribed the words—“Es la Comedia Espejo de la Vida.”
The Governor’s box was close to the stage, on what in the London theatres is denominated the Prince’s side of the house; and the cabildo, or box of the chief magistracy, was in front. But now the Governor’s box is removed to what was the cabildo, and the English consul occupies the one lately the Governor’s. The Governor, except on national days, seldom attends the theatre.