A great many North-American black men are about the town, and on the beach; crowding the pulperias.
The negroes have great confidence in the effect of charms for different diseases: they stick a small bean-shell to the forehead for the headache; another for the tooth-ache, &c. They wear, likewise, round the neck, a cross, with a piece of leather in the shape of a small morocco purse, like those sold in London: this is a religious badge.
The excellent and orderly conduct observed by the lower order of people in the streets, compared with other countries, is very remarkable: no obscene insulting jests meet the ear; and persons may accompany modest females in the street, without dread of molestation from the groups of all descriptions strolling about, who evince towards the stranger every respect: we cannot but esteem them, for thus contributing to render a foreigner’s abode in this city so free from apprehension.
The riotous noise of the English lower orders is by some called one of the evils of liberty, and I could not consent to curtail that liberty even to purchase civility from them. I should, however, be glad if they would condescend to copy, in some degree, Buenos Ayrean manners. I do not wish them to be servile—good manners is not servility; but to moderate that effusion of liberty, descending sometimes to ferocity.
Drunkenness is not a vice of this country; the rabble of blacks and porters are at times so. The mechanic employs his spare hours with the guitar: on a summer’s night, the doors and windows are open, when they are to be seen singing, and dancing, and smoking the segar. My countrymen of the same grade, at home, prefer the comforts of society in a public house, where they can, over their grog and song, damn the ministers and taxes, swearing that they are true-born Britons, back and bone.
From the orderly conduct observed in the streets of Buenos Ayres, a stranger would suppose it a most moral city; we have no drunken disorderly females, creating abhorrence and disgust. Intrigue is common enough, but then it is modestly managed: besides, a lady’s frailty is not considered an offence so heinous as in our scrupulous England; more compassion exists for the lovely sinners. Here are no crim. con. actions to amuse some amorous judge and counsel, and inflame the passions.
This country has its portion of beggars, who are, at times, very annoying, besieging the court-yards, &c. The best way to get rid of them is to exclaim “Perdone por Dios!” (pardon for God’s sake). This expression, singular as it may appear, seldom fails in its effect; but “Perdone por Dios!” would have but little chance amongst the sturdy beggars of Europe.
The operation of lousing, so common in old Spain, is followed here, in a degree, amongst a particular class. It is a most unseemly sight, for female fingers to perform the office of combs.
A great aversion used to exist to reside in a house in which a person had died of a fever, until it was thoroughly cleaned.
A savings bank has been established, upon the English plan; I doubt if it will suit the meridian of Buenos Ayres: they are too careless of to-morrow. If beef was one real per pound, their ideas would be different; the labourer would be more industrious, and not refuse to work on a rainy day, which is the case now. A tolerable sum has been collected for the savings bank.