The fair at the Recolator, in 1824, as regarded amusements, was very dull. The promenade, however, was well attended: the elegantes, and others of Buenos Ayres, appeared in their best attire; and the dashing mulatto girls, in silk stockings, white dresses, and veils, seemed determined to rival the fair ones of higher birth. As usual, the equinoctial gales vented their spite at this devoted fair.[20]
During Carnival they have a disgusting practice: in place of music, masques, and dancing, they amuse themselves by throwing buckets and pans of water from the tops of houses and windows, sousing every passenger that passes, and following each other, from house to house, in regular water attacks. Egg-shells filled with water are also thrown: these are sold in the streets. The audience, on leaving the theatre the night before Carnival, get a plentiful salute of them. It lasts three days; and many persons go out of town to avoid it, as it is hardly possible to walk the streets without a ducking. The ladies receive no mercy; neither do they deserve any, for they take a most active part. Repeatedly, on passing groups of them, at night, an egg of water has been adroitly put into my bosom. Those whose occupations lead them into the street, must expect a wetting. Strangers seem to join in the sports with great glee. An English master of a vessel, just arrived, received a bucket of water. Not being aware of the practice, he took up bricks, swearing he would break every window in the house. He could scarcely be pacified. Many persons have been seriously ill from the effects of Carnival playing. The newspapers and police have interfered to suppress it, hitherto, without effect, though it is somewhat lessened. They follow it as an ancient custom of the country; and, like other absurdities, it will, I suppose, die a natural death. If the ladies knew how much it detracts from feminine softness, surely it would be discontinued by them.
In 1825, government seized the opportunity of the victory in Peru, to devote the three days of Carnival to public rejoicings. Handbills were accordingly issued, requesting fathers and masters of families to assist them, and prevent water-throwing, denominating it “disgraceful to a civilized people.” The appeal had, in some degree, the desired effect: at night, however, the water-playing folks could not resist indulging in their favourite amusement—sprinkling the pedestrians with water from phials; especially in the Plaza, where, some mischief-loving girls managed to accommodate me with some of their favours in this way. In time, the good sense of the people will banish this, as they have many other of their antique and absurd customs; for instance, the musical exhibitions during Lent—a triumph gained by reason over bigotry and priestcraft.
Provisions.—The new market, in the centre of the town, is convenient, and well supplied: soldiers are stationed in the outlets, to keep order. Beef is sold at three reals the arroba, or 25 lb.; mutton, for the whole sheep, six reals. Veal is not allowed to be killed; and pork is very bad indeed, and seldom used at table. Turkeys cost from 5 to 7 reals; ducks and fowls, 3½ reals each; partridges and pigeons, 1½ real the pair: geese are moderate—3 reals each. Vegetables are very dear: cabbages, one real; carrots, green peas, cauliflowers, spinage, &c. in the same proportion.
Although the chief articles of life are, at first cost, so cheap, the expense of fire in cooking makes them come almost, if not quite, as dear as in England. Coals are imported from England, and are dear.
The beef is good, but much inferior to our’s; and their fashion of always baking it gives it a taste of the charcoal and wood, and renders it insipid. They have no idea of roasting by the spit. Mr. Booth, an Englishman, who keeps a store, is noted for having dinners in the English style.
In summer, meat will not keep beyond the day, and cattle are slaughtered in the morning for the day’s consumption; in winter, the night previous. In England, meat kept two or three days is supposed to eat more tender; here, it is the reverse—as report tells me, for I have never been housekeeper enough to know from experience.
Mutton is indifferent: from some farms, they tell me, good mutton can be procured, but it has not been my lot to partake of any of this superior sort. The natives have not much relish for mutton: sheep were, at one time, of so little value, that, in the country, they were killed, and used as fuel for brick-kilns. This has improved, and will continue to do so, from the number of well-stocked sheep farms, that now send large droves far into the interior for sale. Mr. Halsey, an American gentleman, has a large concern of this nature.
The poultry bought in the market are not of the best description; they are in general, diminutive and tough. To have good poultry, it is necessary for persons to fatten them themselves, or purchase them at farms that can be depended upon. Ducks are better; the turkeys are large, and, when properly reared, eat tender; the geese are indifferent. Partridges are large and tender, and very excellent. The ordinary poultry, in a manner, live upon beef, for which they seem to have a peculiar penchant. I have seen beef and corn placed before turkeys, and they preferred the former. In a place where so many animals exist upon beef, the pig, it may be believed, comes in for his full share. Indeed, all animals, in this country, appear to live upon beef. The quantity that is wasted would be most acceptable to the poor in populous Europe.