The old Spanish part of the population, I dare say, dislike, and can never forgive us; we are ever the subject of their sneering remarks, and must expect to be so. That we can act from principles of pure honour, appears to them impossible; and they affect to trace self-interest at the bottom of all our professions, particularly as to the proceedings of the British government toward South America, which have gained us so much popularity with those states; and given British politics the lead, which indeed never stood more high in Buenos Ayres than at the present moment.
Englishmen are aware that very few like them as a nation, however they may respect them as individuals; and should our country be once on the wane, there would be plenty of helping hands to press us further down. It requires no extraordinary sagacity to account for this animosity. I am certain, however, we have numerous friends in Buenos Ayres. The rising generation have, in a manner, grown up with us. Time will wear away antiquated prejudices, and it will be seen that the calumnies which have been heaped upon our nation for ages, have not been deserved. Many fine young Englishmen reside in Buenos Ayres in mercantile and other employments: this portion associate a great deal with the inhabitants, with whom they have formed a perfect intimacy.
I do not expect emigration from England yet, to any great extent. The English people, in general, have a repugnance to live under foreign laws, and where the influence of a religion prevails which from childhood they have been taught to believe is inimical to their own. But, waving these considerations, they would have little else to complain of. Here is a rich soil, without any dread of sands and blights, as at the Cape of Good Hope; and if they cannot amass a fortune, they are sure to live, and that comfortably. Of the kind-hearted inhabitants I have already spoken: my countrymen may be assured, there are no foreigners with whom he will find himself so much at home as with the Buenos Ayreans. Therefore, I again repeat, that farmers with a small capital may gain a livelihood—perhaps, more; labourers are sure of constant employment; and mechanics are ever in request. The climate is congenial; the government are their sure protectors; and the people, in spite of every prejudice, esteem our nation. The age of revolutions, I think, is past; and, during their utmost violence, strangers were never molested. British vessels from Liverpool are continually arriving: and the cost of the passage is moderate.
Whenever fate conducts me from this country, I shall quit it with regret for any other place but my native home, and must always feel the most sincere esteem and gratitude towards the fine and generous people amongst whom I have so long resided, and where I have enjoyed happiness I little thought to experience out of Great Britain. I came to Buenos Ayres somewhat prejudiced, expecting to observe illiberality and bigotry, in place of the many amiable qualities of which I have found them possessed; and although I am as complete an home-sick Englishman as ever quitted his paternal shores, yet such is my attachment to Buenos Ayres, that I look up to it as my second home, and feel the deepest interest in its welfare.
[COLONIA DEL SACRAMENTO.]
I VISITED Colonia del Sacramento for a short period. It lies east of Buenos Ayres, distant across the river thirty miles, and may sometimes be seen from the latter city: when this is the case, it denotes a change of weather to wind or rain.
Colonia is fortified both on the land and sea side: heavy guns are mounted on the lines, and it is capable of making a good defence. It is now in the possession of the Brazilian government. In December, 1821, during my abode there, it was occupied by the Portuguese, and 600 European troops constituted the garrison; they were all light infantry, and had served in the Peninsular war. I should suppose them a “crack regiment,” for in appearance they fully equalled British troops: the uniform, brown jackets with black facings, and caps similar to our’s. Most of the officers wore orders for services in Europe. The music consisted of bugle trumpets. Parade every morning: officers marched to their guard, colours trooped, and all the evolutions of the parade in St. James’s Park. On Sundays they mustered in their best uniform, governor attending, for church. I could not but express my admiration, at the fine order and discipline of the troops, to a Portuguese officer. He answered, that whatever improvement had taken place, was entirely owing to British example and instruction; that we had found them a mob, and transformed them to decent soldiers. It will be long ere Spain can put forth such troops.
The officers, in Colonia, were good-looking gentlemanly men, speaking a little French and English, picked up in campaigning. Many of them had married, and preferred remaining in the country, when the regiment was ordered away, turning farmers, cattle dealers, &c.