CONTENTS
| CONTENTS OF PART I |
| CHAPTER | | PAGE |
| I. | The Invitation | [1] |
| II. | First Glimpses of Korea | [15] |
| III. | Life in Seoul | [37] |
| IV. | Life in Seoul (Continued) | [65] |
| V. | The Visit To Pyeng-yang | [90] |
| VI. | Chemulpo and Other Places | [112] |
| VII. | The Departure | [139] |
| VIII. | Personal Reminiscences and Impressions | [148] |
| CONTENTS OF PART II |
| IX. | The Problem: Historical | [179] |
| X. | The Problem: Historical (Continued) | [222] |
| XI. | The Compact | [252] |
| XII. | Rulers and People | [280] |
| XIII. | Resources and Finance | [300] |
| XIV. | Education and the Public Justice | [326] |
| XV. | Foreigners and Foreign Relations | [352] |
| XVI. | Wrongs: Real and Fancied | [367] |
| XVII. | Missions and Missionaries | [388] |
| XVIII. | July, 1907, and After | [414] |
| XIX. | The Solution of the Problem | [444] |
ILLUSTRATIONS
| Portrait of Marquis Ito | [Frontispiece] |
| TO FACE PAGE |
| Bird’s-Eye View of the Capital City | [22] |
| Going to the Lecture at Independence Hall | [52] |
| Water-gate at Pyeng-yang | [100] |
| West Gate or “Gate of Generous Righteousness” | [132] |
| Peony Point at Pyeng-yang | [184] |
| The Tong-Kwan Tai-Kwol Palace | [206] |
| The Ex-Emperor and Present Emperor | [284] |
| The Hall of Congratulations | [306] |
| Street Scene in Seoul | [330] |
| The Stone-Turtle Monument | [384] |
| Funeral Procession in Seoul | [408] |
PART I
A NARRATIVE OF PERSONAL EXPERIENCES
CHAPTER I
THE INVITATION
It was in early August of 1906 that I left New Haven for a third visit to Japan. Travelling by the way of the Great Lakes through Duluth and St. Paul, after a stay of two weeks in Seattle, we took the Japanese ship Aki Maru for Yokohama, where we arrived just before the port was closed for the night of September 20. Since this ship was making its first trip after being released from transport service in conveying the Japanese troops home from Manchuria, and was manned by officers who had personal experiences of the war to narrate, the voyage was one of uncommon interest. Captain Yagi had been in command of the transport ship Kinshu Maru when it was sunk by the Russians, off the northeastern coast of Korea. He had then been carried to Vladivostok, and subsequently to Russia, where he remained in prison until the end of the war. Among the various narratives to which I listened with interest were the two following; they are repeated here because they illustrate the code of honor whose spirit so generally pervaded the army and navy of Japan during their contest with their formidable enemy. It is in reliance on the triumph of this code that those who know the nation best are hopeful of its ability to overcome the difficulties which are being encountered in the effort to establish a condition favorable to safety, peace, and prosperity by a Japanese Protectorate over Korea.