The cool breath of the mountain, which constantly kisses this little paradise during even the sultry months of summer, together with the beautiful surrounding scenery, are alone enough to delight the heart, banish the dull feeling of affliction, and tune the aching heart with health and happiness.
The large, fine hotels at this place and at Colorado Springs are principally occupied by invalids who come with fortunes; while there are hundreds of wagons standing among the trees, with tents by their sides, in which they stay who come with spare frames and sparer fortunes. I have gone among these many wagons; and while I found some comfortably located, with all necessaries and conveniences, I also found some wretched families, with scarcely enough to eat and not sufficient clothing to hide their wasted frames. Some are stretched upon miserable couches, with the shades of death upon their countenances. Medical skill has broken the feeble means, but life continues to waste; and now, with the last few cents, they come to drink of the free fountain of Nature. I have often thought, as I saw so many afflicted gathered round these wells, of the healing waters of which the Bible speaks, which the angel came down to trouble. While there are deaths now and then, a greater portion of the invalids go away mended.
Besides afflicted persons, there are many wealthy families who come here to recuperate and spend the summer-season. They usually lodge at Colorado Springs, and take their daily rides down to Manitou fountains,—often in the finest vehicles, with beautifully matched teams, which are kept for this purpose. What a contrast between these hale, hardy persons, who are rolling in luxury and happiness, and those fever-racked invalids in the little tents on the hill-side.
The water is very unpalatable; and though a person can not drink more than a swallow or two at first, by sipping at it daily it will at length taste very well, and can be drank freely. The soda-spring is used the most, though the others are best in many cases—according to the complaint.
Here is the place, sick friends, to drink;
For the angel of life stands on the brink.
We were all very anxious to ascend Pike’s Peak; but upon inquiry we found it to be thirteen miles from Manitou to the summit, and was usually ascended by burroes (donkeys), which were kept there for that purpose. Accordingly, arrangements were made for starting the next day. Before the appointed time we went among the long-eared herd which was soon to take us up the mountain-side, each one wondering which one would be selected for his seat, and how the ugly things would ride anyhow. Here we learned that four other tourists were to accompany us—this increasing our number to eight, including the driver. At the appointed hour the saddles were placed upon these little samsons, and without halter or bridle we mounted for the trip. Will remarked as he mounted that the people in Nebraska always rode with bridles, and that he thought it a very poor way anyhow to place your life within the power of a d——d jackass. A loud yell from the driver, and the herd started forward. As the road was not unusually rough for a mountainous country, nor the ascent very steep, we got along very well the first mile; but then the road became very rough. And so steep was the ascent that often the little creatures that carried us stood almost perpendicular upon their hind feet, and the path was so narrow that we had to go single file. Thus we went on, the driver remaining in the rear, applying a great whip to the burroes without mercy whenever necessity required it. At the expiration of about three hours we came to the half-way house, and halted to partake of some refreshments and to warm by the fire, as the air was getting cool. Soon the driver announced the time to start on, and we remounted. We were now above timber-line; and nothing appeared before us but the bald and rugged mountain. On we went, winding our course among the huge rocks and up the gorges until we arrived at such an elevation that breathing became difficult, and one of our companions began bleeding at the nose. Here our new companions announced their inability to go any farther; and they proceeded at once upon the return. After bidding them good-by, we, together with the guide, pushed forward, determined to stand upon Pike’s Peak, or find that it was impossible to do so. As we ascended the air continued to grow lighter, and affected our breathing considerably; but we were now nearing the summit, and being so absorbed with glowing thoughts of standing upon the great peak, we still went on, uttering no word of complaint. At length we arrived upon the summit. The dutiful little creatures swung their long ears back and forth as though they felt as glad as we. Here we were, fourteen thousand feet above the level of the sea, far above all surrounding objects, and naught but the horizon to bound our vision. There is here a United States signal-station; and the officer lives in a little stone house. He says that he stays here the year round, going down to the valley now and then; and Indians never bother him. He says that the elevation does not affect him much, as he had become somewhat used to the light air. Upon inquiry concerning the weather, he told us that he was sometimes visited by violent thunder-storms; and the lightning played upon the mountain-top, at times ingulfing him in electric fire and rocking his little house. Dense clouds of vapor hung around the mountain far below, and we fully realized that we were indeed above the clouds. After descending we learned that while we were upon the summit, with the sun brightly shining above our heads and the snow glittering beneath our feet, a fine warm shower was falling from the clouds into the valley below. After having enjoyed the novelty of wading snow-banks in the summer-season to our satisfaction, we were ready to descend. So, with many happy wishes for our mountain friend, we began to go down. This, however, was not very pleasant; for every step the burro made he jerked his rider severely. Will remarked that he did not mind riding donkeys as long as they stood on their hind feet; but he could not go it when they stood on their heads. It is certainly remarkable to see these small animals carrying more than their own weight upon their backs; and, notwithstanding the steepness and roughness of the road, they seldom lose their footing,—though I once saw one descending a steep bluff with a load upon his back that made him groan, and losing his footing, he tumbled down the mountain and dashed his life out upon the rocks in the gully below. They have proved to be of great service in mountain regions; and hundreds of them are daily climbing and descending their rocky sides.
In due time our party arrived safely at Manitou—the trip having cost us just five dollars apiece. We had now seen and experienced the changes in the atmosphere from the lovely valley below, to the mountain-top far above the clouds. We had gone in one day from where the air was perfumed with the odor of sweet, tinted blossoms and flowers, to the land of snow-banks where vegetation did not grow. We had seen the tall, graceful pines dwindle to low, dwarfy shrubbery, and then give way to the cold, bare mountain. It was a lesson—a practical and instructive one. We now felt considerably exhausted, which we manifested by retiring an hour earlier than usual. We felt a little sore the next morning, but were soon as nimble as ever. It usually takes between five and six hours to ascend, and between four and five to descend; and many persons can not stand it to go up at all. The trip should not be made in one day.
We had now been here some days; and though it seemed to us a life-time could be spent in this beautiful valley, we were compelled to leave for other scenes.
The Garden of the Gods, so often spoken of by the tourist as a pretty place, we learned was but two miles off; and we concluded to visit this natural curiosity. The road to the garden wound like a serpent among the rugged, rocky mountains, and with much difficulty we passed along. It was not long before we came to a curious object. It was the wonderful balancing rock. This huge stone, weighing many tons, rests upon another stone with a foundation of but about a foot. It is apparently just balanced, and looks as though it could be tilted by little power. It is a wonder; and we gazed upon it with interest. The road ran by its side, and it appeared to be somewhat risky to drive by. Will said he would go and throw it over; and he was soon seen with his shoulder against the mountain of stone, fully believing himself able to overbalance the rock. But his strength was not a mite to what was required, and he gave it up. I found that there was no danger, and drove by in safety. Another mile among the brush and rocks, where the trail of the mountain-goat was fresh, and we passed between two gigantic natural pillars of stone, and opened into a level, lovely valley, about six hundred yards in length and two hundred in breadth, richly carpeted with soft, green grass. Surrounding it were towering rocks of red granite some three hundred and thirty-seven feet high, and of all shapes,—some of them presenting a grotesque though beautiful appearance. Occasionally there might be seen a little grass-spot, with here and there a bush, away up in the mountain crevices, among which sported the birds of gaudy plumage, singing their sweet songs of glee. The little conies sported here and there from rock to rock, and the mountain-sheep, with their long snowy coats, stood far up among the bluffs looking shyly upon us; and we sat viewing the surrounding curiosities. How appropriate the name “Garden of the Gods!” We camped here for the night at the foot of what is known to the tourist as the perpendicular rocks. Up in the mountain just outside the garden was a pretty little lake of clear water, and taking a bucket I started up with the team to water them and bring some to camp. Will, being much attracted by the scenery, at once began climbing the rocks, expecting to arrive at an elevation from which to obtain a more extensive view of the surroundings, while Doc. remained at the wagon loading shells for our rifles. Scarcely had I arrived at the lake when I became startled by the cries of Will, who was now rushing, rolling, and tumbling down the mountain toward the wagon, yelling out, “Bear, bear!” I hastened to the wagon, and, seizing my big rifle, started to the rescue. Doc. had already arrived; but the terrified Will rushed down the gorge like an arrow, with his hat in one hand and his gun in the other, not noticing us nor slackening his speed until he was safely in the wagon-bed; and he did not stop his noise until he was tired out. We struck bruin’s trail in the sand and followed it for some distance, and at length caught sight of him; but before I could salute him with a rifle-ball he entered a dark cave among the mighty rocks. We went to the mouth and dared him out; but he did not come, and we had good reasons for not going in. He was a medium-sized black bear, and looked as though he might be a pretty good squeezer. The chase was now ended, and after procuring a few specimens of rock we went to camp. Will had quieted down, and upon our making fun of him and asking him why he did not shoot the bear, he said that it was so rough up among the rocks to skin an animal, and so far down to the wagon to carry the meat, that he thought the bear would follow him right into camp, where he would kill him and have it handy. The scheme would have appeared very plausible could he have explained that infernal yelling. Presently, upon looking upward, we saw a mountain-squirrel skipping about among the rocky ledges; and as the sharp report of a six-shooter rang out upon the evening breeze, we were delighted to know that we were to have rich squirrel-soup for supper. Night soon came on, and the blankets were spread for retiring. But Will was excited, and said that he did not calculate to take his chances of going to sleep in a place where the bears were sticking among the rocks, and panthers and wild cats were working their scratchers out and in, practicing for a grab, while rattlesnakes were looking out at us from every little bunch of grass; “for,” said he, “the devil knows what may happen, and no one be awake to see it.” I felt very sure that Will would not sleep much that night; and knowing that if he saw danger he would make noise enough to awaken us and alarm even bruin himself,—as he did before,—we concluded to retire as usual, taking the precaution, however, to picket the horses close to camp, as they readily scent strange animals and snort; and this was also a guard.
In the morning after breakfast we took a short ramble, looking at the many curiosities and natural beauties in and around this lovely green pass. Hundreds of names are carved or written upon the rocks here; and the names of Miller and Llewellen are painted in large letters upon the very crest of a rock several hundred feet high. The side upon which the names are written is as perpendicular as though it had been hewed down by human design; and it is also very steep on the other side, where the parties must have climbed up and then leaned over in the swimming space to write. It must have required great labor to get there; and nothing but a burning, ambitious desire to be where man had never been,—and where so few could go,—could have led these men to climb so far in the air and register their names upon the very margin of the death-register; for if, in climbing, the foot or hand hold had given way, the body would have been precipitated to the level without hope.