A Javanese Batik, showing the Tree of Life and Bird of Paradise. Courtesy of American Museum of Natural History, New York
Dyes vary in their tendency to dye evenly or in spots, and if the worker finds herself using a color having a tendency to streak, this can be overcome by especial care in keeping the piece continually moving while in that color.
To secure an even color it is necessary to keep a gentle motion so as to prevent the dye from settling in any part and to keep all the cloth equally wet, so that it is necessary to have a vessel large enough to keep the cloth entirely under the water and moving freely.
In using any metal pan one should not let dye containing acids stand in it, as the metal will corrode. An enamel pan with a flaw will allow the acid to eat a hole in it in two weeks’ time (as the writer found). Dye need never be thrown away. If it dries to a powder or crystal on the bottom of the pan, set the pan away, and when the color is wanted again add warm water as at first and dissolve again. Sometimes as the dye stands in a pan day after day, if it is in constant use, some color may settle on the sides or a film may gather on top of the pan which will streak or spot the cloth if not noticed. Simply strain the dye into a clean vessel and continue to use it as long as any color remains.
When the worker can produce a piece of Batik or tied-and-dyed with a dye that will last, there is no excuse for careless work. And a piece of the work should receive the time and care in making that its beautiful possibilities deserve.
Batik dye cannot be used hot as the wax would melt. If used very cold the wax tends to crack and the color will creep under the wax. If too hot, that is, over 128 degrees Fahrenheit, the wax melts and the design is blurred or lost. The best temperature for the dye bath is between 90 and 110 degrees Fahrenheit. As 98 degrees is blood heat, if no thermometer is convenient, water that feels the temperature of the wrist will be all right. Use plenty of water to float the cloth. Allow it to move freely without crowding in the basin. Put only enough dye in the water to color the water distinctly. The cloth will absorb the dye color from the water and leave the water clear, if only enough dye has been used. If much dye remains in the water after the work is finished it shows that more dye was used than was necessary. If more dye is to be added, remove the cloth from the water and add in small quantities. Mairet’s “Vegetable Dyes” will give all the formulas necessary for experimenting in that line if any readers are interested.
It is not only waste of dye to use a strong solution, but a more durable fast color is secured by allowing the goods to remain in the dye bath until there is a thorough union between the dye and the fiber of the cloth. This union cannot be obtained in a few minutes sufficiently to stand much rough usage. “Make haste slowly” must be the motto of the dyer who wishes a permanent color. Remember the time required in the old indigo and turkey red processes.