First lessons in batik

by Gertrude Clayton Lewis

The amount of each color used depends upon the result desired. Therefore, analyze the color you wish to produce. Decide what proportion of each color there seems to be in the shade desired, and mix the dyes accordingly. Dye the light colors first, and the darkest last. Remember a color may be darkened or modified, but cannot be lightened, except by removing the dye with ammonia or washing soda.

In dyeing for Batik, the safe thing is, of course, to depend upon several weak dye baths of rather clear colors, as there is danger of producing too grey and muddy a color if strong baths are used before there is a good understanding of the result of the color combinations. If at all uncertain of the result of a color combination, dye a piece as a trial first.

In dyeing, to secure a red and green in the same piece, the colors of the “blue group” discussed in the previous chapter should be dyed first entirely. Then with washing soda or ammonia the color on the spots where the red group of colors is desired can be removed. This bleaching process had better be reserved for advanced work, and in the beginning stages color combinations not requiring it should be used. The soda and ammonia both affect the wax and after using them the waxing should be looked over carefully and ragged edges re-waxed.

When a small spot of a contrasting color is wanted on such a place as the wings of the bird on the velvet bag on [page 42], the method of removing the color by ammonia is the one to use.

With thin silk the wax can be so entirely removed with a hot iron and papers that a piece can be re-waxed for contrasting colors. With heavy cloth or velvet, the wax could not be so completely removed by this method that the next dyeing would be satisfactory. Gasoline is the best method of removing the wax in such a case. Every particle must be removed in order to have the next dye bath satisfactory.

For that reason it is best to remove all the wax possible in the first gasoline bath and rinse in clean gasoline before dyeing again.

In dyeing textiles in large quantities with the “Bateeko” Powder Dyes as is required for costumes, draperies, etc., the directions as to size of receptacle, time of dyeing, stirring, etc., are the same as for smaller work.

While these dyes are very rapid in their action when used in only tepid water, they are naturally still more rapid when used hot. The user, therefore, has the choice of the hot or cold process, according to her convenience. If the dye is used hot the material must be stirred constantly. If used in tepid water it must be kept in motion only sufficiently to keep the color from settling in the folds and making dark spots or streaks.

Always rinse out all the loose color thoroughly in cold water before hanging up to dry. Hang the pieces so they do not touch anything.