The designs used in Javanese Batik work show much variation in different parts of the island, and certain designs are characteristic of particular regions. The motives are of various origins. Some are old weaving patterns, or adapted from basket or plaited designs. Some are evidently of Indian origin, similar to those on the cotton prints of southern India. It is interesting to find the same designs on some of the old Buddhistic sculptures that are found on certain Batik pieces. Other designs are of Chinese origin, and recently modern European designs are being adopted. Most of the designs, however, are either modifications of the old Indian plant and flower motives or geometric figures developed by the Javanese themselves.
The Javanese women employ the “Batik” process largely for the decorations of textiles used in their personal costume. This costume is simple, consisting of an oblong piece of cloth about three to four and one-half yards long by forty-two inches wide, generally called a “sarong.” It is worn wrapped around the waist and tucked in the belt. This costume is worn by both men and women.
A cotton scarf, generally about three yards long by eighteen inches, is also worn, and is used by the women as a “carry-all.” Silk is occasionally used by the nobility for scarfs.
The turban is made of a square piece of cloth twisted around the head in a different fashion in each district.
Each district has its own characteristic color schemes. Djokjakarta and Surakarta, which are semi-independent principalities in the interior, do the finest work and use largely indigo and soga-brown dyes, which give a range of color from cream through the yellow browns and blues to a very dark color, practically black, made by dyeing strong blue over a strong brown.
In certain places on the north coast of Java, notably Pekalongan and Samarang, much gayer colors, such as red, blue, green, etc., are used, and floral designs are common.
Prices in Java vary from one to twelve dollars, and even as much as twenty-five dollars may be paid for a very fine piece. Two to four dollars will buy an excellent turban square.
Motifs from Javanese Batik in the Field Museum of Natural History