This did not promise great things for the eventful day; but perhaps the races turned out better than appearances warranted.

We saw nothing of them; for, after a breakfast at 6 a.m., and a farewell to a dear canine friend called Chivey, we started off that very morning for a week's tour to the forest of Bavella.

CHAPTER XX.
A RAW LUNCH.

It was a lovely sunny morning when we three, in high spirits, set out on our expedition to the forest of Bavella, and the south of the island.

Our open carriage was exceedingly comfortable, with a hood in case of bad weather; the bay horses went well, and the coachman appeared irreproachable.

There is no feeling in the world so exhilarating and delicious as that experienced in starting off on a Bohemian tour, without luggage, without responsibilities, unhampered by fear of railway time-tables or the care of boxes, dawdling or hurrying at will, starting at what hour one pleases, and out all day in the fresh mountain air, with al fresco meals and a turf siesta. It is the gipsy's life, robbed of its discomforts, but not of its primitive ease and romance.

As we rolled round the circular bay, and up the winding ascent on the further side, the water sparkled calmly in the glassy mist of morning sunshine, and the Agincourt lay with deserted deck, like a "painted ship upon a painted ocean."

But the road leading to the town was already all astir with country people coming in for the races; and, further on, higher up the hill, as the pretty white houses of Ajaccio on their spit of land grew less and less distinct against the blue Mediterranean, we met with more and more of these.

Men and women, all on muleback, and all seated astride—sometimes two men, or a woman and boy on one animal—the men with their gun behind their shoulder, and their red gourd slung by their side,—were driving strings of cows, horses, and foals before them, for the fair which was to be held that morning prior to the races.

All the men lifted their caps politely; but some of the animals objected strongly to us and our carriage, and could scarcely be got to pass us.