CONTENTS

CHAP. PAGE
[I]ALEPPO TO TELL AḤMAR[1]
[II]TELL AḤMAR TO BUSEIRAH[35]
[III]BUSEIRAH TO HÎT[77]
The Parthian Stations of Isidorus of Charax[108]
[IV]HÎT TO KERBELÂ[115]
The Palace of Ukheiḍir[147]
[V]KERBELÂ TO BAGHDÂD[159]
[VI]BAGHDÂD TO MÔṢUL[198]
The Ruins of Sâmarrâ[231]
[VII]MÔṢUL TO ZÂKHÔ[247]
[VIII]ZÂKHÔ TO DIYÂRBEKR[289]
[IX]DIYÂRBEKR TO KONIA[327]
[INDEX]: [A], [B], [C], [D], [E], [F], [G], [H], [I], [J], [L], [M], [N], [O], [P], [R], [S], [T], [U], [V], [W], [Y], [Z][361]

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE
[THE MONASTERY OF RABBÂN HORMUZD ][Frontispiece]
[1.][ALEPPO, THE CITADEL][To face 10]
[2.][ALEPPO, HITTITE LION IN CITADEL][”10]
[3.][BASALT EAGLE IN THE FRENCH CONSULATE][”10]
[4.][ALEPPO, JÂMI’ ESH SHAIBÎYEH, CORNICE][”11]
[5.][FIRDAUS, MEDRESSEH OF EL MALIK EẒ ẒÂHIR][”11]
[6.][ALEPPO, JÂMI’ EL ḤELAWÎYEH][”12]
[7.][FIRDAUS, A TOMB][”12]
[8.][ALEPPO, A MAMLÛK DOME][”13]
[9.][ALEPPO, A MAMLÛK DOME][”13]
[10.][KHÂN EL WAZÎR][”14]
[11.][KHÂN ES SABÛN][”14]
[12.][WINDOW OF A TURBEH, FIRDAUS][”15]
[13.][GATE OF CITADEL, ALEPPO][”15]
[14.][ALEPPO, THE GREAT MOSQUE][”26]
[15.][TELL AḤMAR FERRY][”26]
[16.][TELL AḤMAR][”27]
[17.][CARCHEMISH FROM THE BIG MOUND][”27]
[18.][TELL AḤMAR, HITTITE STELA][”30]
[19.][TELL AḤMAR, EARTHENWARE JAR][”30]
[20.][SERRÎN, NORTHERN TOWER TOMB][”31]
[21.][SERRÎN, SOUTHERN TOWER TOMB][”31]
[22.][SERRÎN, NORTH TOWER TOMB, PLAN AND ELEVATION SHOWING MOULDINGS][36]
[23.][INSCRIPTION IN CAVE NEAR SERRÎN][40]
[24.][WIFE AND CHILDREN OF A WELDEH SHEIKH ][To face 46]
[25.][PLAN OF MUNBAYAH][45]
[26.][MUNBAYAH, WATER GATE ][To face 47]
[27.][NESHABAH, TOWER TOMB][”47]
[28.][MAḤALL ES ṢAFṢÂF][49]
[29.][ḲAL’AT JA’BAR][To face 50]
[30.][ḲAL’AT JA’BAR, MINARET][”50]
[31.][ḲAL’AT JA’BAR, HALL OF PALACE][”51]
[32.][ḲAL’AT JA’BAR, BRICK WALL ABOVE GATEWAY][”51]
[33.][ḤARAGLAH][53]
[34.][ḤARAGLAH, VAULT][To face 52]
[35.][RAḲḲAH, EASTERN MINARET][”52]
[36.][RAḲḲAH, PLAN OF MOSQUE AND SECTIONS OF PIERS][57]
[37.][RAḲḲAH, MOSQUE FROM EAST][To face 53]
[38.][RAḲḲAH, ARCADE OF MOSQUE, FROM NORTH][”53]
[39.][RAḲḲAH, CAPITALS OF ENGAGED COLUMNS, MOSQUE]{xiv}[”56]
[40.][RAḲḲAH, PALACE][”56]
[41.][RAḲḲAH, DETAIL OF STUCCO ORNAMENT, PALACE][”57]
[42.][RAḲḲAH, DOMED CHAMBER IN PALACE][”57]
[43.][RAḲḲAH, BAGHDÂD GATE FROM EAST][”58]
[44.][RAḲḲAH, INTERIOR OF BAGHDÂD GATE][”58]
[45.][RAḲḲAH, BAGHDÂD GATE RECONSTRUCTED][59]
[46.][ḤALEBÎYEH][To face 59]
[47.][IRZÎ, TOWER TOMB][83]
[48.][IRZÎ, TOWER TOMB][To face 84]
[49.][NAOURA OF ’AJMÎYEH][”84]
[50.][THE INHABITANTS OF RAWÂ][”85]
[51.][’ÂNAH FROM THE ISLAND OF LUBBÂD][”94]
[52.][’ÂNAH, A FISHERMAN][”95]
[53.][HÎT, PITCH-SPRING][”95]
[54.][HÎT][”104]
[55.][HÎT, THE SULPHUR MARSHES][”104]
[56.][MINARET ON ISLAND OF LUBBÂD][”105]
[57.][MINARET AT MA’MÛREH][”105]
[58.][MADLÛBEH][”105]
[59.][MA’MÛREH, MINARET][106]
[60.][HÎT, THE BITUMEN FURNACES][To face 108]
[61.][THE EUPHRATES AT HÎT][”108]
[62.][THE WELL AT KEBEISAH][”109]
[63.][’AIN ZA’ZU][”109]
[64.][ḲAṢR KHUBBÂZ AND RUINS OF THE TANK][”118]
[65.][ḲAṢR KHUBBÂZ, THE GATEWAY][”118]
[66.][ḲAṢR KHUBBÂZ, A VAULTED CHAMBER][”119]
[67.][THEMAIL][”119]
[68.][ḲAṢR KHUBBÂZ][120]
[69.][THEMAIL][130]
[70.][MUḤAMMAD EL ’ABDULLAH][To face 134]
[71.][KHEIḌIR, MA’ASHÎ AND SHEIKH ’ALÎ][”134]
[72.][BARDAWÎ][136]
[73.][BARDAWÎ FROM SOUTH-WEST][To face 135]
[74.][BARDAWÎ, EAST END OF VAULTED HALL][”135]
[75.][SHETÂTEH, SULPHUR SPRING][”138]
[76.][ḲAṢR SHAM’ÛN, OUTER WALL][”138]
[77.][UKHEIḌIR FROM NORTH-WEST][”139]
[78.][UKHEIḌIR, INTERIOR FROM SOUTH-EAST][”139]
[79.][UKHEIḌIR, GROUND PLAN][149]
[80.][UKHEIḌIR, THE BATH][150]
[81.][UKHEIḌIR, SECOND STOREY][152]
[82.][UKHEIḌIR, THIRD STOREY][152]
[83.][UKHEIḌIR, NORTH-EAST ANGLE TOWER][To face 142]
[84.][UKHEIḌIR, STAIR AT SOUTH-EAST ANGLE][”142]
[85.][UKHEIḌIR, INTERIOR OF SOUTH GATE][”142]
[86.][UKHEIḌIR, CHEMIN DE RONDE OF EAST WALL][”143]
[87.][UKHEIḌIR, NORTH GATE, FROM OUTSIDE][”143]
[88.][UKHEIḌIR, FLUTED DOME AT A][”146]
[89.][UKHEIḌIR, FLUTED NICHE, SOUTH-EAST CORNER OF COURT D]{xv}[To face 146]
[90.][UKHEIḌIR, GREAT HALL][”147]
[91.][UKHEIḌIR, COURT D AND NICHED FAÇADE OF THREE-STOREYED BLOCK][”148]
[92.][UKHEIḌIR, VAULT OF ROOM I][”149]
[93.][UKHEIḌIR, ROOM I][”149]
[94.][UKHEIḌIR, CUSPED DOOR OF COURT S][”150]
[95.][UKHEIḌIR, CORRIDOR Q][”150]
[96.][UKHEIḌIR, VAULTED END OF P, SHOWING TUBE][”150]
[97.][UKHEIḌIR, VAULTED CLOISTER O´][”150]
[98.][UKHEIḌIR, GROIN IN CORRIDOR C][”151]
[99.][UKHEIḌIR, SQUINCH ARCH ON SECOND STOREY][”151]
[100.][UKHEIḌIR, NORTH SIDE OF COURT M][”152]
[101.][UKHEIḌIR, SOUTH-EAST ANGLE OF COURT S][”152]
[102.][UKHEIḌIR, WEST SIDE OF B3][”153]
[103.][UKHEIḌIR, DOOR LEADING FROM V TO W, SEEN FROM SOUTH][”153]
[104.][BABYLON, THE LION][”170]
[105.][BABYLON, ISHTAR GATE][”171]
[106.][BABYLON, ISHTAR GATE][”171]
[107.][CTESIPHON, FROM EAST][”180]
[108.][CTESIPHON, FROM WEST][”180]
[109.][CTESIPHON, REMAINS OF VAULT ON WEST SIDE OF SOUTH WING][”181]
[110.][GUFFAHS OPPOSITE THE WALL OF SELEUCIA][”184]
[111.][BAGHDÂD, THE LOWER BRIDGE][”184]
[112.][BAGHDÂD, TOMB OF SITT ZOBEIDEH][”185]
[113.][BAGHDÂD, INTERIOR OF SPIRE, SITT ZOBEIDEH][”185]
[114.][BAGHDÂD, BÂB EṬ ṬILISM][”190]
[115.][BAGHDÂD, DETAIL OF ORNAMENT, BÂB EṬ ṬILISM][”190]
[116.][BAGHDÂD, MINARET IN SÛḲ EL GHAZL][”191]
[117.][WÂNEH, IMÂM MUḤAMMAD ’ALÎ][202]
[118.][WÂNEH, IMÂM MUḤAMMAD ’ALÎ][To face 202]
[119.][ḲÂDISÎYAH FROM SOUTH-EAST][”202]
[120.][SÂMARRÂ, RUINED MOSQUE FROM SOUTH][”203]
[121.][SÂMARRÂ, FROM MALWÎYEH][”203]
[122.][SÂMARRÂ, RUINED MOSQUE, INTERIOR OF SOUTH WALL][”203]
[123.][ABU DULÂF, FROM EAST][”212]
[124.][ABU DULÂF, INTERIOR, LOOKING NORTH][”212]
[125.][NAHRAWÂN CANAL][”213]
[126.][IMÂM DUR][”213]
[127.][IMÂM DUR][215]
[128.][TEKRÎT FERRY][To face 216]
[129.][COFFEE-MAKING, SHEIKH ’ASKAR][”216]
[130.][TEKRÎT, THE ARBAÎN][”217]
[131.][KHÂN KHERNÎNA, MIḤRÂB][”217]
[132.][KHÂN KHERNÎNA, DETAIL OF FLAT VAULT][”218]
[133.][KHÂN KHERNÎNA, VAULT, SHOWING TUBE][”218]
[134.][KHÂN KHERNÎNA, SETTING OF DOME][”219]
[135.][TELL NIMRÛD][”219]
[136.][ḲAL’ÂT SHERGÂT, THE ZIGURRAT AND RUINS OF NORTH WALL][”222]
[137.][SÂMARRÂ, MOSQUE][232]
[138.][SÂMARRÂ, INTERIOR OF SOUTH GATE, RUINED MOSQUE]{xvi}[To face 223]
[140.][SÂMARRÂ, RUINED MOSQUE, SMALL DOOR IN WEST WALL][”223]
[141.][SÂMARRÂ, RUINED MOSQUE, SOUTH-WEST ANGLE TOWER][”232]
[142.][SÂMARRÂ, RUINED MOSQUE, WINDOW IN SOUTH WALL][”232]
[139.][SÂMARRÂ, MOSQUE, DETAIL OF PIER, SOUTH DOOR][233]
[143.][SÂMARRÂ, RUINED MOSQUE, BIG DOOR IN NORTH WALL][To face 233]
[144.][SÂMARRÂ, EL ’ASHIḲ, WEST END OF NORTH FAÇADE][”233]
[145.][EL ’ASHIḲ][236]
[146.][SÂMARRÂ, EL ’ASHIḲ FROM NORTH][To face 238]
[147.][SÂMARRÂ, EL ’ASHIḲ FROM SOUTH][”238]
[148.][EL ’ASHIḲ, DETAIL OF NICHING ON NORTH FAÇADE][238]
[149.][ṢLEBÎYEH][239]
[150.][SÂMARRÂ, ṢLEBÎYEH][To face 239]
[151.][SÂMARRÂ, ṢLEBÎYEH, SETTING OF DOME][”239]
[152.][SÂMARRÂ, BEIT EL KHALÎFAH][240]
[153.][SÂMARRÂ, BEIT EL KHALÎFAH][To face 240]
[154.][SÂMARRÂ, BEIT EL KHALÎFAH, DETAIL OF VAULT OF SIDE CHAMBER][”240]
[155.][BEIT EL KHALÎFAH, FRAGMENT OF STUCCO DECORATION ON ARCH][241]
[156.][SÂMARRÂ, BEIT EL KHALÎFAH, STUCCO DECORATION][To face 241]
[157.][SÂMARRÂ, BEIT EL KHALÎFAH, FRAGMENT OF RINCEAUX WORKED IN MARBLE][”241]
[158.][SÂMARRÂ, BEIT EL KHALÎFAH, STUCCO DECORATION][”241]
[159.][STUCCO DECORATIONS, SÂMARRÂ][242]
[160.][SÂMARRÂ, STUCCO DECORATION][To face 242]
[161.][SÂMARRÂ, STUCCO DECORATION][”242]
[162.][SÂMARRÂ, FRAGMENT OF POTTERY][”242]
[163.][SÂMARRÂ, FRAGMENT OF POTTERY][”242]
[164.][ABU DULÂF][244]
[165.][ABU DULÂF, ARCADE][To face 243]
[166.][ABU DULÂF, NICHED PIER OF NORTHERN ARCADE][”243]
[167.][MÔṢUL][”248]
[168.][MÂR AHUDÂNÎ][258]
[169.][MÔṢUL, MAR JIRJIS][To face 249]
[170.][MÔṢUL, MÂR TÛMÂ][”249]
[171.][MÔṢUL, MÂR TÛMÂ][”258]
[172.][MÔṢUL, MÂR SHIM’UN][”258]
[173.][MÔṢUL, PLASTER WORK IN ḲAL’AT LÛLÛ][”258]
[174.][MÔṢUL, TOMB OF THE IMÂM YAḤYÂ][”259]
[175.][ḲARAḲÔSH, DECORATION ON LINTEL OF MÂR SHIM’ÛN][264]
[176.][ASSYRIAN RELIEFS AT BAVIÂN][To face 272]
[177.][’ALÎ BEG][”273]
[178.][THE KHÂTÛN AT THE DOOR OF SHEIKH ’ADÎ][”273]
[179.][SHEIKH ’ADÎ][”274]
[180.][ZÂKHÔ][275]
[181.][BRIDGE OVER THE KHÂBÛR][”275]
[182.][ḤASANAH, ASSYRIAN RELIEF][”290]
[183.][SHAKH, ASSYRIAN RELIEF][”290]
[184.][NOAH’S ARK][”291]
[185.][JEZÎRET IBN ’UMAR, GATE OF FORTRESS][”296]
[186.][JEZÎRET IBN ’UMAR, BRIDGE][”296]
[187.][JEZÎRET IBN ’UMAR, FOUNTAIN OF MOSQUE]{xvii}[To face 297]
[188.][JEZÎRET IBN ’UMAR, RELIEFS ON BRIDGE][”297]
[189.][PARTHIAN RELIEF, ḲAṢR GHELLÎ][”289]
[190.][PARTHIAN RELIEF, FINIK][”298]
[191.][THE HILLS OF FINIK][”299]
[192.][STELA AT SÂREH][”306]
[193.][ḲAL’AT ḤÂTIM ṬÂI, CHAPEL][”306]
[194.][MÂR AUGEN][”307]
[195.][THE BISHOP OF MÂR MELKO][”314]
[196.][KHÂKH, THE NUN][”314]
[197.][NARTHEX OF MÂR GABRIEL][”315]
[200.][KHÂKH, CHURCH OF THE VIRGIN][”315]
[198.][KEFR ZEH, MÂR ’AZÎZÎYEH; PARISH CHURCH][315]
[199.][ṢALÂḤ, MÂR YA’ḲÛB; MONASTIC TYPE][316]
[201.][KHÂKH, CHURCH OF THE VIRGIN][318]
[202.][KHÂKH, CHURCH OF THE VIRGIN, CAPITALS][To face 318]
[203.][KHÂKH, CHURCH OF THE VIRGIN, DOME ON SQUINCH ARCHES][”318]
[204.][THE CHELABÎ][”319]
[205.][FORDING THE TIGRIS BELOW DIYÂRBEKR][”319]
[206.][DIYÂRBEKR, MARDÎN GATE][”322]
[207.][DIYÂRBEKR, YENI KAPU][”322]
[208.][DIYÂRBEKR, CHEMIN DE RONDE, NORTH WALL][”323]
[209.][DIYÂRBEKR, COURT OF ULU JÂMI’][”323]
[210.][ARGHANA MA’DEN][”328]
[211.][GÖLJIK][”328]
[212.][KHARPÛT, THE CASTLE][”329]
[213.][IZ OGLU FERRY][”329]
[214.][MALAṬIYAH ESKISHEHR][”336]
[215.][VALLEY OF THE TOKHMA SU][”336]
[216.][TOMB AT OZAN][”337]
[217.][OZAN, TOMB][341]
[218.][THE GORGE AT DERENDEH][To face 340]
[219.][TOMB NEAR YAZI KEUI][”340]
[220.][TOMARZA, CHURCH OF THE PANAGIA FROM SOUTH-EAST][”341]
[221.][TOMARZA, CHURCH OF THE PANAGIA, SETTING OF DOME][”341]
[222.][TOMARZA, WEST DOOR OF NAVE, CHURCH OF THE PANAGIA][”346]
[223.][SHAHR, DOORWAY OF SMALL TEMPLE][”346]
[224.][FATTÛḤ][”347]
[225.][ON THE ROAD TO SHAHR][”347]
[226.][SHAHR, TEMPLE-MAUSOLEUM, UPPER AND LOWER STOREYS][348]
[227.][SHAHR, TEMPLE-MAUSOLEUM][To face 348]
[228.][SHAHR, THE CHURCH ON THE BLUFF][”348]
[229.][AVSHAR ENCAMPMENT][”349]
[230.][ḲAIṢARÎYEH, THE CITADEL][”349]
[231.][MOUNT ARGAEUS FROM NORTH-WEST][”354]
[233.][NIGDEH, TOMB OF HAVANDA][”355]
[234.][NIGDEH, TOMB OF HAVANDA, DETAIL OF WINDOW][”355]
[232.][TOMB OF HAVANDA][356]
MAP OF TURKEY IN ASIA [unavailable][To face 370]

AMURATH TO AMURATH

CHAPTER I
ALEPPO TO TELL AḤMAR
Feb. 3—Feb. 21