The shortest drive from Matlock to Crich Hill is over Cromford-bridge; but a far more picturesque route is by the Derby-road to Whatstandwell-bridge (see [Lign. 273]), and from thence ascending the hill to Crich, and returning home by Holloway; making the entire distance about twelve miles. As our immediate object is to examine the geological features of the mountain, we shall proceed by the nearest road; and upon reaching Scarthing Rock, turn to the left, by Wellersley Castle grounds, having on the right a bold escarpment of mountain limestone, with layers of chert in nodules and amorphous masses. At Cromford Canal, the limestone suddenly terminates, and sinks beneath the surrounding alluvial silt of the river valley, and the millstone grit. We will chip off a few specimens of the chert, to examine at leisure. Crossing the bridge, the road winds round the foot of the hills of sandstone, which lie on our left, while on the right is the valley of the Derwent, and the river is seen here and there through openings in the copses and hedge-rows, meandering through the rich meadow-lands of the valley, which are flanked on the west by a magnificent range of lofty hills, clothed with the luxuriant woods of Alderwasley. The character of the scenery from this point of the road, till we ascend the high ground, is faithfully and graphically portrayed by Mr. Rhodes.[806]
[806] Derbyshire Tourist’s Guide, p. 48.
"The road lies through a beautiful valley by the side of the Derwent; sloping meadows, crowned high above with a long range of magnificent woods, skirt the road-side on the left: on the right the river, pursuing its winding way beneath the umbrageous branches of oak, ash, alder, hazel, and sycamore, and bubbling as it passes along, is a beautiful object. About two miles below Cromford-bridge, the road leaves the more open part of the valley, and plunges into the thick woods that environ the little hamlet of Lea; a lovely spot, romantically situated by the side of a sparkling stream, in a deep hollow, amongst steep hills covered with foliage, and fields of the freshest verdure. The houses of this secluded village, with the exception of here and there a comfortable cottage, are handsome residences, nestling among orchards and parterres of flowers. Everything was flourishing most luxuriantly; and when we passed through the place, the hollyhocks, dahlias, and roses were in full blossom, and gave an extremely bright and cheerful aspect to the scene. The road continues through Lea Wood to Holloway by a very steep ascent, and from the toll-gate at the top of the hill it traverses the side of a mountainous ridge, covered with wood and intervening rock. The prospect is now magnificent: on the right a scene of great extent opens to the view, rich in all that constitutes the highest beauty in landscape. The summits of the two ranges of hills that form the eastern and western boundaries of the fertile valley at our feet are here from three to four miles apart; and the extent from north to south is from ten to twelve. Many minor eminences, rich with wood and intervening verdure, adorn this enchanting scene, through which the Derwent, sometimes hidden by overhanging trees, and sometimes sparkling with light, flows with busy speed and uninterrupted current by Belper, Milford, and Duffield, to Derby; the whole presenting an assemblage of splendid scenery finely diversified and rich in picturesque beauty. The woods of Alderwasley, that cover the hills from below Whatstandwell-bridge, to the dark pine-crowned eminence of Stonnis, are peculiarly imposing and magnificent."
Near the village of Holloway there are several quarries opened on the side of the hill, which enable us to ascertain that this range is composed of strata of millstone grit and sandstone, highly inclined and dipping from the hill. The beds are so split and shattered in every direction, that no large blocks can be procured, and the stone, although a good building material, is therefore only employed in the construction of the cottages and houses in the immediate vicinity. The vignette of this volume represents a mass of the inclined sandstone strata near this place. The reader will recollect that the hills on the opposite side of the valley, on our right, are also composed of similar strata; and that the ridge, covered with fir-trees, marks the bold escarpment of the millstone grit at Stonnis, over Cromford; so that the geological horizon of the valley, as seen from this spot, is wholly formed by the millstone grits and sandstones. A mile beyond Holloway toll-gate, the road turns to the left, and the bare dome of mountain limestone of Crich Hill is before us. We soon arrive at a limestone quarry, in which the strata are seen to be distinctly arched (see [Lign. 271], p. 886), as in the cliff at Matlock Church Tor.
We will alight here to examine the rock more closely, and obtain specimens. Here we see that the strata are inclined both to the right and to the left, and also lean towards the central axis of the hill in front of us; presenting such an appearance as would be afforded by an excavation made in an onion, or other spheroidal body, formed of a series of concentric layers. The limestone in this quarry is of the usual subcrystalline character, abounding in shells, principally Spirifer. There are numerous vertical and oblique fissures in the rock, and these are more or less incrusted with minerals and spars, which have evidently been deposited by electro-chemical action, and admirably exemplify the manner in which the rich veins of lead, &c. are distributed in the strata of the interior of the mountain. In a crevice of the rock, in which the mineral contents were undisturbed, the arrangement of the prevailing minerals of this part of Derbyshire, namely, galena (sulphuret of lead), sulphate of barytes (here termed cawk), and fluor spar, was beautifully displayed. A layer of the blue sulphuret of lead, or galena, was spread over the surface of limestone forming the walls of the fissure: upon this was a thick stratum of white sulphate of barytes; and on the latter, fluor spar, of a light blue colour, forming cubic crystals on the surface nearest the cavity of the fissure, which therefore appeared to be lined with crystals of fluor.[807]
[807] The workmen at this and the other quarries generally have specimens of the fossils and minerals for sale, at moderate prices.
TRAP OF CRICH HILL.
About half a mile beyond, we arrive at Wakebridge, near which there are several very productive lead mines. The "Glory-mine," one of the richest in Derbyshire, is said, some ten years since, to have been worth from thirty to forty thousand pounds a-year.[808] A mining establishment, on the left hand, where a powerful steam-engine is constantly at work, affords numerous specimens of the usual I Derbyshire spars and minerals; and from among the heaps of refuse thrown by the visitor may make an interesting collection. Near this spot, a vertical shaft was sunk in the side of the hill, in search for lead ore, and at the depth of twenty fathoms, a rock of compact Trap was reached; the work was continued for a few yards deeper, but ultimately abandoned as fruitless. A gallery was subsequently driven into the side of the hill, lower down, and here, too, the trap was found; thus proving the existence of a central protrusion of igneous rock, over which the bent strata of mountain limestone are now disposed in consecutive layers. Numerous blocks of this compact trap or basalt, some of which are veined with red jasper, lie scattered about the site of the old shaft, and an interesting suite of specimens may be collected. Pursuing our way, the limestone strata are seen in openings on the hill side, having the same remarkable arrangement as those before described.
[808] Derbyshire Tourist, p. 50.
Upon arriving where the road divides,[809] we must proceed on foot and visit the quarries, and examine the exposed masses of rock, that we may clearly comprehend the structure of the mountain. We will now ascend by the pathway that leads to the summit, and on the left several good sections of the strata are displayed. On reaching the tower on the crest of the mountain ([Lign. 272], p. 887), a magnificent panorama bursts upon our sight; but which no language can adequately describe. Here and there bare pinnacles of rifted rock protrude through the green sward; and masses of white, yellowish, and pink sulphate of barytes, pyrites, fluor, and other minerals lie strewn upon the surface.[810]