(Trunk) No. 11. OXFORD TO WINDSOR.
Town Plan No. 12—Oxford.
OXFORD
The entrance to the 'city of palaces' is through suburbs of a commonplace, uninteresting, or even ugly character, the builders having apparently gained no inspiration from the magnificent examples of architecture which they are gradually hemming in. That such squalid, or, at the best, perky and meretricious streets of houses should have been allowed to encompass the architectural splendours of the great University is a public scandal, and it is to be hoped that before many years have passed some steps will be taken to wipe out the worst of these new abominations. To adequately describe Oxford within the limits of this work is impossible, and it will be sufficient to indicate the salient features which should not be passed over. The city lies upon a low ridge between the Thames and the Cherwell, and is surrounded by a fine range of hills. The imposing array of towers and spires, the many colleges with their historic quadrangles, the avenues and groves and secluded college gardens, the marvellous profusion of carved stonework, all combine to render the nucleus of this ancient seat of learning one of the most beautiful in the British Empire. The Bodleian Library is the hub round which the colleges cluster, and after it has been seen the church of St. Mary the Virgin should be visited, from its long connection with the seat of learning. Near it are the New Schools, the Botanic Garden, and the Clarendon Press, while the Taylor building contains many interesting pictures. Of the colleges, All Souls, Balliol, Brasenose, Christ Church, Magdalen, Merton, and New College, are among the most interesting.
The Cathedral belonging to Christ Church dates from 1160, and is a noble example of Norman architecture. The nave is pure Norman, the chancel Transitional, the chapter-house Early English. The shrine of St. Frideswide, the Bishop's throne, and the grand modern reredos, are particularly notable.
The first village passed after leaving Oxford is Sandford-on-Thames, but the flatness of the country and the presence of a paper-mill with a tall chimney deprive the place of any particular charm beyond what is found in the quietest reaches of the Upper Thames. Sandford Church is not interesting, but there are remains of a preceptory of Knights Templars at the farm by the brook a little to the north-west.
The road continues parallel with the river, and soon passes through the curiously uniform village of Nuneham Courtney. The two lines of picturesque cottages facing one another across the road were built by the first Earl Harcourt, who, disliking the proximity of the village to the manor-house, razed the cottages to the ground after constructing the new ones, which have now been sufficiently toned down by the weather to give a pleasing effect. This same building Earl demolished the old church and erected another near the house, now abandoned for a new one lately put up near the village. He also rebuilt the house (not shown to visitors) in the severely classic style in vogue at the close of the eighteenth century. The grounds and gardens were laid out in part by the popular 'Capability' Brown, and these may be seen on Tuesdays and Thursdays in the summer. It is advisable, however, if one particularly wishes to see them, to write in advance to Mr. H. Gale, Nuneham Courtney.