There is nothing in this centre of Welsh Nonconformity of antiquarian interest, and soon a steady ascent leads from it into the Nant Ffrancon Pass, presumably the Valley of Beavers. Upon the right lies a range of mountains, each over 3,000 feet in height, and well known to climbers—Elidyr Fawr, Y Garn, and Glyder Fawr, with Glyder Fach straight in front, and the giant mass of Moel Siabod behind it. On the left, Carnedd Llewelyn, 3,484 feet, and Carnedd Dafydd, 3,426 feet, send down great shoulders into the pass, where the winding road, ever ascending, climbs above the grassy valley lying between the encircling giants. At Benglog Bridge, where the foaming Afon Ogwen leaps down the boulders in a torrent, one is nearly 1,000 feet above sea-level. Here the lonely Llyn Ogwen comes into view, but before passing it the short clamber over rocks to Llyn Idwal should on no account be omitted. The path begins behind the little inn, and winds by the side of the stream draining from the lake which abruptly comes into view. This lonely tarn, with its waters reflecting the black scarp of Glyder Fawr, seldom or never lit up by the sun's rays, and often lashed into foam by the fierce eddies sweeping down from the mountains, is the very embodiment of awe-inspiring impressiveness. Even if the day be beautiful there is a wild loneliness, which is accentuated by the legend of Prince Idwal being brutally murdered here by Dunawt at the instigation of his father, to whom the youth had been entrusted by his parents.

The terrific black chasm seen in the rocks overshadowing the pool is named Twll Du, or the Black Cleft, but popularly 'The Devil's Kitchen.' It is 450 feet high and 100 feet deep, narrowing in places to 6 feet wide. A foaming cataract of troubled waters pours down, forming in its fall the hollows at the base termed 'The Devil's Pots.' Many fatal accidents to climbers have occurred here in ascending to Llyn Bochlwyd, lying nearly 700 feet higher, on Glyder Fach, last year (1910) being by no means immune.

South of Lake Ogwen, Tryfaen, the three-headed mountain, is remarkably impressive. Soon after the lake is passed a descent commences to Capel Curig, where a magnificent view of the eastern slopes of Snowdon is obtained between Moel Siabod and Glyder Fawr. The combined waters of the Llugwy and Nant-y-Gwryd accompany the road as it leads downwards to Bettws-y-Coed, with the Swallow Falls and Miners' Bridge, as previously noticed (see [p. 84]).

SECTION VI
(TRUNK ROUTE)
BANGOR TO DOLGELLEY, 65¾ MILES

DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE

Miles.
Bangor to Carnarvon9
Carnarvon to Llanberis7½
Llanberis to Pen-y-Gwryd6½
Pen-y-Gwryd to Beddgelert7¾
Beddgelert to Penrhyn Deudraeth7½
Penrhyn Deudraeth to Harlech6½
Harlech to Barmouth11
Barmouth to Dolgelley10

NOTES FOR DRIVERS

Bangor to Carnarvon.—Nearly level and splendid surface.

Carnarvon to Llanberis.—Steep hills for 4 miles, then easy gradients and good surface.

Steady rise through Pass of Llanberis.